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View Full Version : My rearend is noisy.....



SoMnDMAX
08-08-2003, 13:31
I hate to sound like my truck, but....

The new truck has one slight issue. The rear differential is in a constant state of WHINE... As speed increases, the whine increases as well. When coasting, the noise is slightly louder. The sound is linear with speed- as speed increases, so does the volume of the noise. As speed decreases, the volume does as well.

No doubt the cause is either a defective ring and pinion, a bad bearing, or an improperly setup ring and pinion. *&%# happens, I guess.

Anyone else have the same problem, and what was the course of action?

I have full faith my dealer will be able to rectify the situation.

Colorado Kid
08-08-2003, 13:41
In response to the topic header, perhaps you should eat less beans. tongue.gif

I have no constructive advice about your differential though, I'd just take my service writer for a ride and let him hear it.

The only previous posters I recall complaining about whine sufferred failures. . . so if the dealer doesn't want to replace it under warranty for the whine he'll get to replace it for failing pretty soon.

drthv8r
08-08-2003, 15:27
Man I just knew that topic header was going to get some funny replies. Sorry I can't help you out here but I'm having flashbacks of Blazing Saddles... :eek:

tysmith
08-08-2003, 19:40
Back in '91, a friend of mine bought a K1500 that had a whine from day one. At 400 miles, the rearend grenaded. To his surprise, no oil anywhere. The dealer had no problem replacing everything short of the actual housing. He kept a piece of the ring gear, and hung it in his shop. It's amazing how well lubricants work when they're there...

Ty

SoMnDMAX
08-08-2003, 22:29
I figured you'd all get a kick out of the title... :D http://216.40.249.192/s/contrib/edoom/fart.gif

My SM has gone for a ride, and is checking into what course of action he can take. We'll know more in the next week or so.

I just wanted to see if anyone here has had or knows of any one who has had problems. Curiosity has gotten the best of me...

On edit- the lube level is just a touch (about 1/4") below spec. No problem there.

[ 08-09-2003, 01:31 AM: Message edited by: SoMnDMAX ]

a64pilot
08-09-2003, 10:02
Whining is usually gears, improper lash etc. Bearings usually roar or make grinding noises.
Your the first trouble out of these rear ends I've heard of. Unlike the flimsy 10 bolt in the F body's, they all seem to whine until you blow them up that is ;)

SoMnDMAX
08-25-2003, 23:03
Problem fixed... Replaced the complete housing. Noise gone!! :cool: :cool:

raventai
08-26-2003, 00:24
glad to hear you got it fixed smile.gif , a friend of mine bought a used 01 8.1 ally (same 11.5 full float rear) his had a wine in it also they wound up replacign the ring and pinion redoing all the setup, problem fixed under warrenty

hoot
08-26-2003, 08:02
Originally posted by SoMnDMAX:
Problem fixed... Replaced the complete housing. Noise gone!! :cool: :cool: Maybe you should install one of those arse cooler setups highly recommended by SoCalDmax.

:D

poorloser
08-26-2003, 09:32
hoot

Where can I get any info on " one of those arse cooler setups highly recommended by SoCalDMAX " :confused:

NWDmax
08-26-2003, 09:48
Brokers runs one. :D

SoMnDMAX
08-26-2003, 10:20
Hoot, no cooler or big cover for me. I just run the 75w-90 Amsoil and it'll all be good. :D

I don't work the truck hard enough to warrant any sort of differential mods.

[ 08-26-2003, 11:54 AM: Message edited by: SoMnDMAX ]

hoot
08-26-2003, 10:51
I think for us non commercial users, a bigger cover like the MagHyTek is relatively cheap insurance, is a beautifully made product and looks great from the back.

The cooler pump setup Broker speaks of might make a difference with non stop pulling. I have no arguement with that at all. Break downs in that business can be a real pain.

Since the trucks come with 100% synthetic already and you have to use it when changing it, going to Amsoil isn't really a change. I used Red Line. What's the difference?

SoMnDMAX
08-26-2003, 12:04
I changed my previous post a bit... Added an "I" before "just".

I agree with you Mike, there isn't really any difference in the gear oils. It's a preference thing I guess, just like engine oil. Any of the good gear oils are more than sufficient- doesn't matter if it's Amsoil, Redline, Mobil 1, Valvoline, Royal Purple, or whatever- they are all excellent products! Preference, cost, and availability are the determining factors. I use Amsoil because I've had good luck with it, and I can get it easily (local shop sells it). I actually prefer to use Mobil 1, but I cannot find it locally.

Mag makes a nice cover (real nice), but as far as I'm concerned, I have no need for one. I personally would rather put the $$$ for the cover towards a power adder or a Suncoast tranny. To each their own, right? smile.gif

The commercial haulers have nothing to lose when adding a diffy cooler. It's a worth while addition that can certainly prevent if not eliminate heat related breakdowns. No arguement here.

SoCalDMAX
08-26-2003, 15:15
I'm working on a differential cooler kit as we speak.

Preliminary testing indicates that when pushing 542hp and towing 87,000lb, differential temp can be reduced signicantly - on the order of 2 or 3*, making the investment very worthwhile.

I've had issue with the coolers springing a leak and lines coming apart, dumping all of the oil and almost immediately destroying the diff, but testing is still in the initial stages.

This is all based on my exhaustive research, which indicated that 100% of the big rigs do not have them, therefore they are absolutely necessary.

I'd like to hear from other long haulers and hotshot truckers who have used them with great success.

"Don't Let Your Rear Make Noise - Get a Cooler Arse Instead!" ;) Steve

SoCalDMAX
08-26-2003, 15:18
OK. Seriously. Has anyone actually SEEN a diff cooler on any Hotshot light or medium duty truck?

I've looked over in the beds of several car haulers with 50' trailers, and have yet to see anything that looks like a cooler. Not very scientific, but would hope to see them if they had them.

Regards, Steve

DmaxMaverick
08-26-2003, 15:50
I know one hotshot driver in my area. He has (had--haven't seen him in years) only one truck and his had a diff cooler. The tank was mounted at the rear of the axle housing outboard of the carrier, and the lube level was maintained the same as OEM. The radiator was small, about the size of early Ford P/S coolers. His reason for having it was longer rear end life. That was then, this is now. If I saw him today, and he had one installed on his current truck, I'd ask him why again. His response, I'm sure, would be, "because I've always done it that way."

The newer rigs may not need it, but old practices are hard to change. Especially when they worked before.

80K haulers don't need them due to the large volume of lube and large surface area of the housing. They just run cooler, synthetic or not. A small housing (the 11.5") has only 4 quarts of lube in a small, compact housing. Less than 3 quarts are actually in the pumpkin.

A mere 20

hoot
08-26-2003, 15:54
sdaver posted a pic of one you can buy.

BROKERS
08-26-2003, 16:40
Well , socaldmax,since you dont haul with the frequecy and a big pin weight ,i personaly think you put a axel cover on for astetics only.If you spent the money i have on rear axel rebuilds ,you would do the same.With out coolers we have not gotten past 150k with a G80.When the ring and pinion are a nice hue of blue,that indicates heat to us.Ring and pinion,pinion bearing ,axel bearing,carrier bearing and seals.For the average fellow,dont waste your money.The stock set-up is fine.

Take it any way you want.I'm not here to debate.

Tom L.

SoCalDMAX
08-26-2003, 18:29
DmaxMaverick,

Thanks for the info. I don't know what older trucks had for differentials, I suppose on those it might have been beneficial.

The synthetic lubes that we have are capable of taking a great deal more heat before breaking down, but I don't know how much more (if any)shearing they can withstand before losing viscosity.

At one time I was interested in finding out what the actual temps were. With an 8qt aluminum cover and a digital gauge, I've seen a max temp of 190-195*, pulling 11-12,000lb of trailer up 6% grades at 88-90mph with 350rwhp. If that doesn't heat it up, there isn't much more that will. I don't see how a stock engine with 240-250rwhp can strain a diff as much as that, since heat is merely energy that wasn't transferred.

I really do believe the added capacity and finned aluminum helps a great deal in dissipating the heat.

Regards, Steve

mackin
08-26-2003, 19:55
Where is the best deal to be had on the MagHyTek cover ?? Price still huge ??

Mac :confused:

chevmeister
08-26-2003, 19:56
Broker
can you tell us approximately how much weight and pin weight your pulling maybe that will help clarify at what point a cooler is needed.
im sure your pulling more than 12k and i dont even want to guess your pin weight.

BROKERS
08-26-2003, 20:40
Originally posted by chevmeister:
Broker
can you tell us approximately how much weight and pin weight your pulling maybe that will help clarify at what point a cooler is needed.
im sure your pulling more than 12k and i dont even want to guess your pin weight. Lets put it this way,we never exceed the 25K Advanced Air Hitch ratings of 7,000lb pin weight.As far as trailer weight, we are at 18k + or - on the hitch. reg'd for 25,999lb.Dot certified .MADOT inspection .Apportioned.

The Furds are at 32,000lb. (6.0l 03 can't pull it.)

Tom L.

poorloser
08-26-2003, 20:53
sdaver posted a pic of one you can buy

any one have the link to the pictures of the cooler sdaver posted

tpitt
08-26-2003, 21:44
Never have checked the temps on any pickups, but have driven many class 8 trucks, with guages on the rearends. Have found on those that the rearends will actually heat up a lot more going down hill when heavily loaded and with the "jake" or retarder on. I would be curious if this was the same with a heavily laden pickup, under compression or in tow haul mode. Anytime in these trucks the temperatures would be substantually higher than when pulling a load. When the ring gear drives the pinion this creates a lot of friction as the gears are designed to be driven by the pinion. tpitt

SoMnDMAX
08-26-2003, 22:48
Let's not turn this thread into a ****ing contest too. I'll delete it. I started the thread to ask if anyone had rearend problems. No one did, and I posted what was done to fix my truck.

Now the post has been hi-jacked to a different topic, which I'm sure will escalate into something I voiced my opinion about a few days ago. Let's not go there.


Dmax Maverick, excellent post. I've seen setups on older trucks too- usually GM 14 bolts (9.5?" ring gear) and Dana 60's (9.75" ring gear). Both are smaller than our 11.5" gears. Both hold less fluid than the 11.5" we have in our trucks. NASCAR and other circle track cars use pumps and coolers to keep their gears alive, due to the RPM the gears turn and the high shear loads the gear teeth see (read- heat buildup). High shear loads, high speeds, and weight on the axle bearings all make heat, and if a person were to work the 11.5" rearend in our trucks hard enough, needing a cooler to keep everything happy isn't that far fetched of a concept.

Lone Eagle
08-26-2003, 23:42
SoMnDMax, You didn't tell us weather it was grape juice that turned to whine. Later! Frank :D

SoMnDMAX
08-27-2003, 00:02
Frank, that's funny!! http://zrxoa.org/forums/images/smilies/roflmao.gif

SoCalDMAX
08-27-2003, 19:12
Guys,

Couple of questions. Does anyone know if this 11.5" R&P has been used by GM or any other mfr before the Dmax was introduced? My understanding is that G80 refers to the locking option, rather than the diff itself. is that correct?

Thanks, Steve

DmaxMaverick
08-28-2003, 05:25
The RPO code "G80" only refers to a locking/limited slip option. It has nothing to do with the actual component parts. "G80" has been used for as many years as there has been RPO codes, long before there was an OEM option for a locking rear end (limited slip, previously).

I have not heard of the 11.5" AA differential being used in anything prior to the current HD's. I believe it was available on the 2000 HD's with the 8.1, though. Someone with more insight than me please chime in. I am curios also.

Black Dog
08-28-2003, 06:22
I have not heard of the 11.5" AA differential being used in anything prior to the current HD's. I believe it was available on the 2000 HD's with the 8.1, though. Someone with more insight than me please chime in. I am curios also. The first application of the 11 1/2" AAM axle was in the 2001 GM 2500HD and 3500 trucks with the Dmax or 8100 engines. It was not used on any MY2000 trucks.

SoCalDMAX
08-28-2003, 19:05
Thanks guys!

Regards, Steve

sdaver
08-28-2003, 20:19
looked at lots of rearends at sturgis that were definitely in need of a cooler :D dave the cooler

http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL59/718709/1218122/29648298.jpg

Diesel Dog
01-16-2004, 03:31
There is a product called Bean-O. It worked on my rear end noise, at the insistance of my wife! My service writer wanted no part in diagnosing the problem for some reason.

Lonewolf867
01-16-2004, 20:29
Diesel Dog,
Be VERY careful around Atlanta...there are several that will be GLAD to diagnose your troubles.. :D