Now rear drums don't wanna come off

[deckhand]

I finally defeated the wheel nuts from hell. After I got the wheel off I thought I would remove the brake drum and check the linings. I would also need it off If I went to replace the wheel studs. Naturally it won't budge. It turns freely and there is no drag from the linings. It looks to be the 3 1/2 inch wide big drum. Does anyone have any ideas on getting it off? Thanks.

[Wally]

Umm, I'm gonna ask a dumb question.
You did loosen the six bolts that hold the axle in, removed the axle and then removed the big nuts that hold the bearings and we are talking about the truck in your sig which would have a floating rear axle that comes apart the way I just mentioned?
Sorry, I had to ask.

[deckhand]

Thanks for the quick reply. I thought on the later trucks the drum would come off over the studs after the wheel was removed. It had some flimsy little sheet metal retainers on about half of the studs that I pulled off. It looked to me that they were there just to keep the drum from falling off. Otherwise, I don't see anything holding it on except that it's a tight fit on the hub locating lip.

[Wally]

You're probably right about the drum being separate from the bearing housing. My 93 2500 wasn't separate and required removal of the axle and bearing nuts. The only manufacturer that I remember seeing that had a removable drum was Ford. My bad!
I don't know what to tell you from here. I'd say just whack it with a soft face mallet after letting it soak in PB Blaster or some other rust breaker. I know we used to break stuck hubs from cars and half ton trucks with a 4lb sledge. they would literally split in half so be CAREFULL with a hammer!

[mcfly]

Like Wally said, hit it with a heavy rubber mallet first on the 3 O'clock side then on the 9 O'clock side. Repeat until it comes off.

-Rick

[deckhand]

Thanks, I will try that.

[Maverick]

My 96 dually had to have the axles pulled to get the drums off.

[Turbo Al]

On my 1993 (3/4 ton) I had to tap out all of the wheel studs to get the drum to seperate from the axle hub. Use some OLD nuts, thread them down untill they are flush with the stud end and tap with a large hammer. This was done with the drum and hub removed from truck (the axles had to be removed).
Good luck Turbo AL

[ 06-07-2002: Message edited by: Turbo Al ]</p>

[mackin]

deckhand,

TURBO AL gave you the correct info ... I would not try and separate unless done the way TA says . All most all 3/4 1 ton trucks have this in common ....... Did rear brakes on my father 82 3/4 ton MOPAR not to long ago ...... Pulled axles separated drum and hub ...... This should be easier then the NUT syndrome ....... You might want to find out what size the axle nut is . You probably don't have the socket to fit ... Also do the seals . Your there........

MAC

Turbo AL , That 72 Lemans you have , I had a 73 with the GTO package with a 400 HO, had the tear drop (looked like )hood openings, with GTO badges ....... Man she would move in a straight line ...... Wouldn't courner for nothing .... What a snowplow .......

[ 06-08-2002: Message edited by: mackin ]</p>

[Wally]

Curious! I never realized that there was so much difference in hub construction on these trucks. I had my 93 apart three times, twice for brakes and once for seals and it was all one unit. Maybe the common denominator is the C verses the K?

[Turbo Al]

Mackin: I am working on the snowplow the motor is a long way from stock but the rear tires are defective :eek: they keep going bald :eek: It has the 350 Chevy orange block(from Factory)Canadian thing I think (I had 2 of them)
O yea umm Diesel stuff humm don't Deckhand don't be surprised if you break a few sockets taking the axle bolts out.

[deckhand]

Thanks all. I guess I am just inexperienced working on these full floating axles. So after taking off all the bolts on the very end will the axle just slide out or will I need some kind of slide hammer or something? After the axle is removed what holds the hub assembly itself on? Is the brake drum just too damn tight on the centering lip to get it off with it still on the vehicle? I now have a full set of metric six point impact sockets. I also happen to have a 20 ton press here if that will help.

It's the 10.5 inch 14 bolt rearend by the way.

Well you guys are right of course. I guess removing the drum over the studs was just wishful thinking on my part, although it looks like it would have been easy to make it that way. One more question. Are the hub adjusting nut retainer and key reusable or is that something else I have to get before I start? Does anyone know what size the adjusting nut is? Thanks.

[ 06-08-2002: Message edited by: deckhand ]</p>

[mark45678]

deckhand! all parts are reuseable ,I would add that the likely hood of needing any rear break work befor a 120k is unlikey unless your running heavy all the time!!! Also there is small inspection holes in the backing plate at 2 oclock and 5,7,and 11 to check the wear on the shoes. If your going in with the intent of serviceing the rear breaks MAKE sure you replace the wheel clynder even if there not leaking (they will not last for the next 100K... One more thing the axal seals will most likely be leaking if you dont replace them....I had to do it 3 times on my 93 in 180K rear breaks once (at 110k and they would go about 30K more). tongue.gif

[deckhand]

mark45678,

Thanks for the good info. I think I will just try and chase the studs for now and use the inspection holes to check the linings. I thought it might be a good idea to pull the drums but I can put it off. It only has 105K on it and those big brakes should be fairly durable, like you said.

[Turbo Al]

Deckhand: I am a rear end junky and it's been 18 months since my last rear end ;) I will try not to forget anything,
1. undo all the bolts that hold the axle to the brake hub/drum and just pull the axle straight out. If your truck is level the oil will now start pouring out :eek: so stuff a clean rag in the housing. There is a metal seal ring (reusable on the axle flange) just put a little silicon on it when you reinstall it.
2. A large nut is visable, it is held in place via a tab locking washer (?) at least one of the tabs is going to be bent over the large nut, unbend it (them).
3. Find the square hole in the nut and remove the square key from it. DO NOT lose this key.
4. I use a chisel or screwdriver and tap on the large nut to loosen it, it is NOT tight this is a pre-loaded assembly. Which means that the nut was tightened untill the drum/hub assembly was hard to turn then backed OFF to the next spot that it was possible to lock the nut with a tab & the put the key in.
5. With the nut & lock tab washer off the outside bearing should come out. I pull the drum out a little then push it back in and the bearing usually stays out.
6. Pull the Drum/hub off.
7. Tap out or press out the studs in the same sequence you use to tighten the wheel nuts. I put old wheel nuts on them to prevent damage to the threads & you will have to remove the nuts once the studs are loose.
8. The drum and hub are now seperate. The seal is on the back (inside side) of the hub and the inner bearing is on the inside of that.
9. WHEN YOU REPLACE THE SEAL (s) USE ONLY A DOUBLE SEAL -- THAT IS ONE WITH TWO SEALING LIPS. If you go cheap on the seals you will be doing this again.
I think I have all the part numbers (not GM) for a 3/4 ton but there may be some differences with the one ton.
Turbo Al

[ 06-10-2002: Message edited by: Turbo Al ]</p>

[mackin]

Turbo Al ,

You are about 3000 miles from me ....... You want to meet me half way, drink some beer, and put some AXLE seals in my truck . I need them bad with 16k on the clock ... :rolleyes: .... Seems like you got a handle on them REAR ENDS ,,,,,,,,Seems pretty simple , or you make it sound it anyway .......

MAC :D

[deckhand]

Turbo Al,

Thanks for the very clear instructions. I will save them. I have a good picture now of how these are put together.

[Turbo Al]

Makin & Deckhand glad to help,
Makin if we drink enough beer we can fix anything ;)
Seriously the floating rear end is one of the easier ones to work on, the most critical re-assembly item would be to get the pre-load correct, if you have never done it then find someone who has or follow the directions carefully.
Tighten untill it is hard to spin then back off to the next available lock up position. There should be very little lateral movement of the drum/hub assembly. Do not confuse brake shoe drag with being tight. Some common mistakes are locking it up too tight or too loose. I personally grind a line (with dremel) across the nut & axle houseing to give a base mark for re-instalation. If the pre-load was correct to begin with you should be lined up with this line even if you replace the bearings.
Once you have done it once (correctly)it is a piece of cake.

Turbo Al