Need some info on long blocks and advice!

[Shaun091382]

Hi i dunno much about the rebuilding process but i wanted to know if i obtained a long block what is left to do with it..what are the things i would need to transfer from old engine to the new longblock? also is it worth while to purchase a reman block or have my engine cleaned and re-machined and rebuilt by someone else? also i was wondering is it ok to have certain components rebuilt then transferred to a new long block at a later time..i was thinking of having my injectors replaced and injector pump redone and maybe turbo rebuilt but i dunno if the turbo needs to be rebuilt..how would i know?...so many questions sorry for the length of the post thanks for your responses


'93 Chev K2500 4x4 Reg Cab 4L80E
209,000 miles

[Shad]

Sounds like your gonna keep it... If I was on a budget I would find a beater to drive, pick up a rebuild book and do the majority of the rebuild myself and take my time, However if money is not an issue I would find a reputable builder and pay to have it done. Usually a long block is complete from intake to pan when purchasing from a major reman facillity $$$. You would have to reuse your inj. pump ,turbo... pretty much everything that bolts up to the block. Everyone has differnt views on this subject however I try to do as much work myself if I can.

[Shaun091382]

I wanna keep it but again i do have time to do the work...problem is i don't know how...never done any kind of engine work before so i could be up the creek without a paddle on that one especially being a diesel...by spending a min between $2000 and $3000 to rebuild my current engine or purchase a reman engine..is it worth me buggering something up trying to reinstall or put back in to pay that kind of money for another engine i dunno...i think anyone in here would agree with me that rebuilding a diesel engine should not be attempted by someone has done NO engine work. As far as picking up a rebuilding book...any suggestions...i could look into it, it wouldnt hurt not too

[cruzer]

Generally a long block is the block w/pistons
cam & lifters and the heads. You may also get oil pan and valve covers. YOu will have to put water pump, intake, injection pump, injectors and the other stuff that bolt on the outside of the block pulleys bracket etc. You don't have to replace inj pump, injectors and turbo unless there is a problem w/them. You can replace when needed. Injectors & pump can be tested. You can ck the turbo. See if the impeller spins freely and ck play(if it wobbles or moves in and out,up & down). I didn't replace my turbo when I rebuilt it.

Does the truck run now? What problems are you having w/the truck? Why do you think it needs a rebuild? What diagnostics have you done? Just curious.

[Shaun091382]

Hi thanks for your reply cruzer..my truck does run now and i am only considering my options for down the road...i think with everything being original on the engine at 209,000 i should at least have my injectors and glow plugs replaced..the injector pump will need to be serviced as i do have a terrible hot start problem in the summer time..plus im told the rebuild on my DB2 will have an updated head and rotor..i thought maybe at this mileage i should have the turbo redone...maybe not i dunno if i should...my whole concern is whether its best to throw big money into redoing my fuel system (glow plugs,injectors and injector pump) when i could use that money down the road for a complete rebuild all at once..but if it is ok to do my fuel system now and at a later date transfer it to a new long block then i would do that i just thought for some reason it was not recommended to do that..thanks again for your response.

[ucdavis]

Diesels are simpler than gas enignes w/the exception of fuel injection, which is about as complicated, but a little different. So if you have the inclination, and a decent stock of tools (or the $$ to increase your stock) I would say rebuilding a diesel would be an easier place to learn engines than gas. Yours has, I believe, a DB2 mechanical injection pump, which is much simpler than the electronic DS4's of '94 and later, so your setup is a good learner's case.
As to book(s), I'd say that one good book isn't enough. You'll be doing some part of the job, & getting confused by the only write-up in your only book on the subject, and get frustrated; w/a second reference that explains the subject in a slightly different way, you have a good chance of getting your education from the books. Do several searches on Amazom for diesel engines, diesel engine repair... Try alibris.com for out of print stuff, or powells.com. Buy the GM manual for your rig as a starter (GM won't bore you w/beginner details on rebuilding as they assume a seasoned mechanic as a starting point, but the detailed info there is w/out equal and you'll gravitate toward this as your standard reference as you gain confidence).
The only difficult things about engine rebuilding (and these are fairly simple issues) are understanding tolerances of assemblies, torques, use of special tools when needed (virtually all of which you can rent), and the use of a good machine shop (which I define as one where the machinist is willing to spend a little time educating me, as opposed to the pig-headed know-it-all who scoffs at a newbie). You'll find that some of the best advice is available for free (like here) where folks are in business because that's who they are (vs. it's a good place to earn a high salary).
After that, rebuilding is all about staying organized w/parts labelled so they all go back in the order they came off. It can be messy, so a cleanable area is required (you'll likely spill the last little bit of oil, coolant... when you disassemble the engine, pull off the heads, etc.).
The real cool part is that you can build exactly the engine you want (18:1 pistons, late model cooling, gear timing, balancing which I would not go without under any circumstances...) yourself.
But, if that's too much to take on, there are also good rebuilders that will custom-build to your specs. Avant & Peninsular get high marks here on TDP, though they are both busy you will probably experience some frustration w/the communication.
So welcome to a great adventure. We'll see you around.

[m-keith]

It's a good thing that you're thinking about these things given you truck's high milage (kilometers?). I've thought about them myself. However, I personally don't think it's a good idea to blindly throw lots of parts & money at a vehicle of any kind. You'd probably replace some stuff that's worn. However, you'd also replace some good parts in the process, & you might leave yourself in a cash poor position when something that you didn't replace fails.

Here are the two most proactive steps I think you can take:

1- Buy a factory shop manual. They're expensive to buy, but well worth it. In fact, I don't think I could afford not to have one. I'm very inexperienced with diesels myself. My Suburban is the 1st diesel I've ever owned...or even looked under the hood of for that matter. With the factory manual, I've been able to get comfortable with owning & maintaining this truck very quickly.

2- Take an engine building class at you local junior college/trade school. Nothing beats hands-on instruction from an experienced professional. I did this a few years back, & the knowledge I gained is indespensible. Unlike all the classes I took at a 4 year college, I kept my books from this class & refer to them regularly. smile.gif The only sticking point, at least at my local junior college, was that I had to first take the basic automotive technology class before being allowed to enroll in an engine building class. It was a little on the boring side, but I learned more than I thought I would. Also, being that I was self-taught up to this point, I gained new insight into some of the basics, & I was able to break some bad habits that I had unknowingly developed. I kept the book from this class as well.

Because I took these two steps, I'll be very comfortable doing my own engine rebuild, farming out only the machine work, when the time comes.

[cruzer]

Shaun, I would say if it aint'n broke, then run it. If its not using excessive oil or making big knocking sounds you can rebuild in the future. A compression test might be something to consider.
It will tell you alot about the condition of the engine. You can change the glowplugs then. I think you are correct about the pump w/the updated head and rotor, due to your symptoms. I'd also throw in injectors. If it starts correctly cold then you could hold off on the glow plugs too.

There are a lot of people who started doing their mods on high mileage engines on this page. Id be looking at gauges, exhaust and air delivery. Gauges are the most important part to start with. You can ease into it and get familiar w/ this engine. Then start saving $ for a future overhaul,w/all the bells & whistles if that's what you want. If you don't tow w/your truck you can back off on some of the mods. I did all mine at once because I felt I had to. The pump and injectors were on my to do list, then I cracked a piston, so I decided to do it all and get it over with. I tore the engine down to see if I could salvage the block(599) and internals. You need to see what you have so you can make a decision to rebuild it or purchase a reman. I decided to rebiuld with more power and cooling.

Happy Holidays to everyone!

M-Keith's idea about classes is an excellent. That's something you can use for the rest of your life. Look at all the $ you can save by doing your own repairs. In the end, you need to do what you are comfortable with.

[ 12-22-2003, 12:36 PM: Message edited by: cruzer ]

[Shaun091382]

Thanks cruzer for your input i don't tow or do much that stresses my engine so what mods can i skip? what do u suggest? i already have an updated exhaust for proper air flow out..im thinking about a set of gauges and (injectors, glow plugs and injector pump) while i will get those installed by a local fuel injection shop i will get them to run a compression test

[cruzer]

Shaun, Have them write down the #'s w/ref to clydrs, which they should do anyways. All comp figures hopefully will be within 10% of each other. Really your hoping there is not 1 or 2 really low. Let us know what they are when you get it done.

Gauges are next, Pyrometer(EGT) and boost are the most important. If you drive by gauges you should be able to keep the motor going for a long time. Then I'd get a Turbo Master. It's like $60-$70 and
and allows you to adjust boost pressures. The
gauges are needed to tune it. The instructions are straight foward & makes it easy to install,
along w/the tuning. This will perk your truck right up. Something you can do right now is get on Kennedy's web site and look at "tech tips" and remove the snorkel in the fender and do the air box mods if yours looks like what he pictured. When I took my airbox out to do the mods, I noticed my box was not like what he pictures so no mods were required. After that you should be good to go.

One thing about your truck is the cooling system.
It is the old style, so maintenance is critical inside and out. Be sure you spray the bugs out of the radiator, from the inside of the engine compartment out to the front. You can find alot of posts on this subject doing a search. Seeing that you do not tow the old cooling system should be adequate. If you do tow alittle watch EGT's and water temp. Heat kills. In the future you my want to look at 97 cooling mods, if you do this, then maybe timing gears to. They are both in the same location of the engine. It's just something to consider but may not be required for your use.

Enjoy.
Happy Holidays to all!!!!