checking out Spokane rebuilder

[Arlie]

I'm considering a rebuilt if I can get a decent price. I'm uncomfortable purchasing long distance in case of warranty problems. Two mechanics I spoke to here in small town Idaho could not point me to a good local rebuilder. I just ran across this rebuilder on the web. Spokane is less than an hour away. Their long block is under 3G.

Anyone familiar with them? I hate doing business without at least one good reference.

Arlie

http://www.rebuilt-auto-engines.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/home.html?sid=1AlF2z0mo06N7kr-00103567279.84

[dslpwr]

I like to look at there shop to see if it s clean and if they have modern shop.
If you know any car racer they can tell you who does go work.

[Arlie]

Thanks for the reply. I think I will visit them in person. I'm guessing they can point me to a decent installer.
I guess my cart is a bit ahead of the cart as I haven't verified my engine is trashed. With no oil pressure after losing all oil the probability is high. I guess the oil pan needs to come off. Wish I had time to do the repairs myself but no such luck.

Anyone got a list of items one should request in a rebuilt in order of importance?

eg specific block
no reground crank
etc

Arlie

[dslpwr]

Hey Arlie

I see by your signature you converted from 454 to diesel.
I have 80 model one ton truck with 350 i was wanting to put in big block or diesel.
With hind sight 20-20 would you do this again?
What did you not like about big block?
Thanks Danny

[Arlie]

Hi Danny,
My truck was converted before I bought it so I never had the 454. I don't even know what year diesel it is. Likely '93 I guess as it's 6.5 with mechanical pump.
Right now I'm considering going back to gas unless I find a decently priced rebuilt 6.5 and reliable installer. The main reason I'm putting effort into keeping diesel is that sometime down the road I may have time away from work to travel with a camper or trailer and it would then make sense for economy.
Right now its use is important, but only occaisonal utility in purpose. I just bought an acreage so it may get more use with a snow plow mounted.
Arlie

[ucdavis]

Arlie-
As far as R&R labor, your guess is as good as mine. Ask local business operators who they use for their fleet vehicles & you'll probably find a good referral. To determine the quality of the operation for the long block, I'd ask a number of questions (for some of which you know the answer), such as:
1) What does it cost for balancing?
2) Do you regrind the crank? (ans: NO)
3) What parts get reused? (good ans: 100% of all wear parts plus 100% of fatigue-prone parts)
4) can I get 18:1 pistons installed? timing gears? have block tapped for sensible coolant drain location? (good if yes)
5) Where do you get your blocks? Can I get a new block from AMGeneral (new blocks aren't made by GM. They're supposedly CNC machined and have a 20-25% tensile strength improvement over the OEM GM. According to the lit, they're molybdenum enhanced grey iron, have taller and wider bearing caps, an optimized piston spray system and improved
head bosses. Suposed to be same blocks in the new MIL version HMMMV.)? If I can't get a new block, how are used blocks checked for fatigue defects?
If they won't sit still for a good grilling, and offer good answers, shop elsewhere.

[Arlie]

Thanks UCDavis. Check out my post, "Bock ID Number?" for the story of my engine playing dead but coming back to life.
Arlie