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Aggie '91
07-23-2003, 12:23
Hi guys,


Sorry this is long, but I REALLY value the input from all of the experts & users here. smile.gif

I am about ready to start replacing the OEM fluids in the truck with synth fluids. 1,300 miles on the truck and all original oils / fluids. I have done a number of searches on the forums looking for info regarding the different fluid changes, and have "filtered" the info down to the following.

Please take a look at the these items & respond if you see any problems/issues with what I intend to do. I have not seen any posts of problems with these changes & just want to make sure I have not missed something that will cause a problem.

xfer case: Amsoil syn ATF (2qts??)
Front axle: Amsoil 75W-90 (approx 4 qts)
Rear axle: Amsoil 75W-140 (approx 4 qts)
Allison xmsn: Amsoil Universal ATF. (ATF dexron III compatible fluid) - 12.7 quarts total cap?

Engine Oil: Amsoil 15w-40 diesel/Marine (10 qts) I will also install a bypass filter system)

Air Filter: Amsoil "oily couch cushion"

Also:
I have seen some issues with the 01/02 head gaskets & dexcool. Have there been any issues with the 2003's, or has GM "fixed" the problems with this? Would it be better to "go with the green" ??

And, before anyone asks about the Amsoil, I am a dealer (mainly for myself), but IF there have been some issues with Amsoil, or it is notany good for use in a componet, the Amsoil will be a no go and I will use something else. I don't like ANY oil enough to take a chance with a 50K piece of machinery if it is not appropriate!

Thanx for your help & comments!

PDS

a64pilot
07-23-2003, 13:36
Aggie,
I think your a little premature for the engine. I would do a couple of changes with Dino oil, like every 1500 miles or so, just to flush any wear in metals out. I believe that alot of the Dmax's aluminum must be sand cast as some people that were oil sampling got high silicon levels for the first couple of oil changes.
I have also seen on this board where the Amsoil tranny fluid was too slippery and causing premature clutch slippage. I would run the stock fluid for a couple of thousand more miles and go with transynd if you want a syn fluid.
Just my opinion and maybe worth what it costs ;)
On edit, make sure you have the right (syn compatible) vent cap on the front diff if you go to syn.

ratlover
07-23-2003, 13:39
Hopefully he will chime in but I remember hearing someone(cant remeber who) saying they felt amsoil was too slippery in the tranny. Made it easier to limp. I have no personal experience with this and his application was with a power adder but it might be something to dig into further..........

Oh....and on the oily chushion.....make sure you get all the excess off from the factory.....they seem to overload it and it oozes all over the place. And now would be the time to swisscheese your air box(or at least drill drain holes) And save your factory airfilter so you can stick it in for a few days while your amsoil filter drys/drains after you clean it.

MadDuraMax
07-23-2003, 15:52
Aggie,

Sounds pretty good, I'm running a 5w40 in the engine, but then I'm in Michigan ... cold start debate is on going soo...

I'm in the change the engine oil and rear axle fluid often when new camp, syn or dino it's just a matter of cost.

I'm still looking for good info on the brake and power steering fluid ... any DOT 5 rational going on???

Most importantly is keep on a good maintenance schedule, I'm not sure on where you stand on the extended service claims..I'll stand on the buyer beware side.

Mark

mackin
07-23-2003, 18:11
Not looking to burst an aneurysm or hurt anyone all as you should be informed so read this ....
=> http://forum.thedieselpage.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=7;t=004453;p=1

Then make your decision ...... Case you aren't aware Steve'o and Big Al are Allison guys ,and moderators,sell nothing but give great info for free ..... Very knowledgeable gents .....

My conclusion was the friction additives used in the Amsoil just weren't up to snuff ....

Change on, of course make your own decision ..... The average Stock Joe may never have an issue,or ,duno ....

Nuttin but tranysnd in my alley .......


There was a great debate on Amsoil motor oil , but I'll leave it to you to search out on your own,if you desire .....

Mobil front to back synthetic ,Delvac 5w 40 syn year round in the crankcase .....


Mac ;)

SoCalDMAX
07-23-2003, 18:28
I agree with A64pilot. Diesels take quite a while to break in, due to the hardness of the rings and cylinder walls. I've got a Toyota 4 banger diesel that didn't really loosen up until about 65,000mi.

I've heard of people burning too much oil (1qt every 1,000mi) in their Dmaxes and I used regular oil in mine and never burned a drop. Until the hole in the piston, but whatever.

I've heard from 2 people who used Amsoil in the Allison and started getting slippage (both making more than stock power). As soon as they switched to Transynd, the slippage problems went away. Remember, the tranny has clutches which you don't want to slip.

I use and like the Amsoil in my diff and air filter, so I'm definitely not against Amsoil, just pointing out what I and others have observed.

Regards, Steve

Aggie '91
07-23-2003, 22:11
Thanks Guys! This is exactly the type of info I was looking for. Like I said, I appreciate ALL input! I had not heard about the Amsoil xmsn fluid being too "slick" for the clutch packs. I have not used the amsoil xmsn fluid in anything of my own as of this time & do not have any personal experience with it. I do want to use a synthetic fluid in the Allison, but it does not have to be amsoil.

I agree with "breaking in" the engine, and have just changed the engine oil for the 1st time (Delo oil, 1,400 miles). I will probably use dino juice for 1 or 2 more changes at least. just chan

Any more inputs Pro or Con on my choices for synth fluids?

Thanks Guys!
PDS

Modified
07-23-2003, 23:46
Front axil capacity is 1.75 qts. As a64pilot said, "make sure you have the right (syn compatible) vent cap on the front diff if you go to syn". And 75W90 syn. is a better choice, especially in cold climates.See more info at:

http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=7;t=004822

As for the Amsoil dual bypass oil filter, this will up your engine oil capacity to 12 quarts at the top of the fill mark.

As for the Allison, don't forget to remove the magnet from the old filter, and install it on the new tranny filter.

chuntag95
07-24-2003, 08:30
Originally posted by MadDuraMax:
I'm still looking for good info on the brake and power steering fluid ... any DOT 5 rational going on???Mark, try ATE Super Blue for brake fluid. It has a very high wet boiling point and is the factory fill for BMW and some others. It's numbers are generally better than most DOT 5. There is a gold version as well if you don't want to stain your plastic blue. You can go 3 years between changes or more often if you are retentive. The reason for the gold and blue is so you can swap back and forth and know when you have purged the lines. Try a pressure bleeder. They ROCK and let you do it alone. :D

ratlover
07-24-2003, 12:50
Different colors.....thats kinda a cool idea. Wonder if they make 2 colors of blinker fluid :confused: You know it can be pretty harmfull if you dont remove all of the old, contaminating it is pretty much the same as leaving the old burnt fluid in there.

chuntag95
07-24-2003, 14:56
Ratlover, are you talking the bliner or brake? tongue.gif That neon pink blinker fluid is cooool, so why would you want a different color? ;) :D

Idle_Chatter
07-24-2003, 15:21
Aggie, I've got Amsoil syn ATF in my Allison without a single problem (I run a "regular" Juice on level 4). I've got the lubes that you listed in both diffs, Amsoil ATF in the xfer case, oily couch cushion and dual remote. I don't run Amsoil oil in the engine. Been running Rotella-T (first dino, then syn) and just put in Mobil Delvac 1300 Super on the last change for some heavier weight for Summer heat.

ratlover
07-24-2003, 15:27
Oh I forgot about the brake light fluid redface.gif

Wonder if running a differnt brand for the brake and the blinker would screw things up :confused:

JimWilson
07-30-2003, 09:59
Originally posted by Aggie '91:
xfer case: Amsoil syn ATF (2qts??)
Front axle: Amsoil 75W-90 (approx 4 qts)
Rear axle: Amsoil 75W-140 (approx 4 qts)
Allison xmsn: Amsoil Universal ATF. (ATF dexron III compatible fluid) - 12.7 quarts total cap?

Engine Oil: Amsoil 15w-40 diesel/Marine (10 qts) I will also install a bypass filter system)

Air Filter: Amsoil "oily couch cushion" Sounds all good to me, with the following exceptions...

* Why 75-140 in the rear? Do you do a lot of towing? If not you might want to stick with the 75-90 instead.

* Don't know what an "oily couch cushion" filter is, but if it's like the K&N's -- where you have to manually oil it yourself -- then I suggest you don't do it. It's WAY too easy to over oil them, and if you do your entire intake gets full of crude. You'll have to clean your throttle body and MAF really good to get rid of that junk. Better to buy a nice cold air induction system like the ones from Volant or UPD instead.

I've also never heard of an ATF being too slippery, so I can't comment on that one. But it sounds a little strange to me. That's like having too much money -- I didn't think it was possible! :D

mackin
07-31-2003, 04:18
Would you provide me the Dexron III GM Approval # for Amsoil ATF?
Would you provide me the TES-295 Letter Of Certification from Allison for Amsoil ATF?

The Amsoil.com website states the ATF "meets" both, I have not found either approval... "Meets" and having the Approval # are two different things.. Does the API Label ring a bell?

Hey it's yor tranny .....

Mac http://forums.thedieselstop.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif

HD-Nate
07-31-2003, 08:32
I know that I

Aggie '91
07-31-2003, 08:50
Jim Wilson,
I don't do a lot of towing, but at times I have quite a bit. I could probably go with the 75-90 & be OK, but with Texas heat, etc I have been thinking about the -140. The jury is still out on that one.

The oily couch cushion is an Amsoil air filter. And yes, it is a cleanable / re-usable filter sorta like the K&N. I have had good luck with them, will just have to watch the excess oil issue though!

Jim / Mackin
I am REALLY dithering about the xmsn fluid. I think Amsoil would be OK & I have heard some good things about it, but if (and that's a BIG IF!), I use the transyn it will keep my @ss nicely coated (covered!) under warrenty with no question of denial for cause. :D

I only have 1,800 miles on the truck (and it's in the shop for a leaking rear diff - drivers side hub end). :mad: I can wait for a little while on the swich. I was planning to switch everything @ the 5K mark, so I am still in "research" mode for all of the fluids.

I have to admit that the transynd is looking better & better. I may save some money up front w/ the Amsoil, but I sure like the "warm fuzzy" I would get from using the transynd. It's looking like the up front money saved is getting smaller & smaller, unless I see some more compelling data about the Amsoil xmsn fluids in the Allison. I know of no failures due to the Amsoil other than it being "too slippery", but given everything else & the cost for re-build on an Allison . . . . . :confused:

Aggie '91
07-31-2003, 09:28
HD Nate,

Just saw your post after I sent mine smile.gif

Regarding the Amsoil issue. I have no loyalty to any paticular brand of lube products, so that part is a wash for me. I have used Amsoil in some of my previous vehicles. 100K on my last Dodge & it uses no oil in about 6-10K miles. I am using the bypass system & it works extremly well. I am currently a dealer for Amsoil, but that is a cost savings issue (5 drivers in my family & 4 vehicles that all use synthetics).

As far as the synthetics issue: I think Amsoil was the first one to produce synths for the public (about 25+ yrs ago) & in the past 10-15 yrs, everyone else has jumped on the band wagon. Although given the timeframe involved, I cannot understand why Amsoil does not have the API label or approval for everything they sell. I could understand not having the GM cert, Mobil 1 does not have the GM cert for all of their products, esp when it comes to the newer GM certs.

I guess in the end, I am just looking for the best "bang for the buck" I can get. Of course, this includes all factors (longevity, cost, performance, etc).

Thanx,
PDS