View Full Version : All 4 headlights on at same time?
DMAXdreamin
10-15-2002, 15:24
Other than buying a headlight booster kit, is there any way to get the low beams and high beams on at the same time on a late model GMC Sierra? I once saw a web page, which I lost track of, where someone had figured out certain pins on the relay to remove (or wrap with electrical tape) to allow all 4 lamps to be on at the same time when the high beams where engaged. Anyone have information on how this is done?
IndigoDually
10-15-2002, 16:11
I feel that the kit from Kennedy is well worth the money. It's an OEM quality harness and relays that not only turn on all 4 lamps, it increases the voltage and available amperage at the bulb to all the use of higher wattage bulbs.
John
[ 10-15-2002: Message edited by: IndigoDually ]</p>
Kennedy's harness is top notch. You won't find a better built setup out there.
FirstDiesel
10-15-2002, 17:02
Besides allowing all 4 lights to be on at the same time there are 2 other BIG benefits to using the harness from JK. First the lights are brighter through the use of relays and a direct feed from the battery. Second and just as important is that it takes the current draw from the lights off the headlight switch. This will prevent the switch from burning out and will amount to a cost savings too!! Helps justify that harness. smile.gif
Go with John's kit. Workmanship is highest quality, and the light!!!!!! I hate to drive anything but my truck at night.
stutzismydog
10-15-2002, 18:14
Gentelmen would one of you post a link for the Kennedy setup? thanks
I just installed the Kennedy Wiring Harness. Easy to install and works as described. I chose a bad bolt for a good ground. I contacted Mr. Kennedy and a couple of great members here and found a better choice for a ground. Works flawlessly and is worth the money!
http://www.kennedydiesel.com/
Look under Truck Accessories.
DMAXdreamin,
Kennedy's harness is the way to go. I performed the 4 lamp high beam mod using a relay and a few wire taps (from instructions on a long dead web site) BEFORE Kennedy had the harness for our trucks ready. I compared the relay mod/OEM harness to Kennedy's set up and posted this opinion:
QUOTE:
================================================
Finished installing and testing the Kennedy Diesel harness with 4 lamp high beams. Pics of the install:
www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=508648&uid=157168&members=1
I measured the voltage at the headlight connectors with the lights on by piercing the insulation close to the connector. The OEM and KD harness were tested with the stock bulbs and 70W LB/100W HB Phillips Halogen bulbs provide by Kennedy.
Voltage readings were obtained using a Fluke model 77 digital multimeter and compared to battery/alternator voltage after the system voltage stabilized. I also made measurements at factory idle speed and using the high idle mod speed of ~850 RPM (no difference).
The results were similar for the OEM bulbs or the 70W/100W bulbs. The OEM 4 lamp voltages were obtained using the modification posted on previous threads - that link for the 4 lamp mod no longer works. I removed that 4 lamp mod for testing of the KD harness and used the diode provided with Kennedy's kit for 4 lamp measurements.
Battery voltage measured approx 14.5V during the readings, but would fluctuate slightly and the actual voltage was recorded and used. Here are the numbers for the 70W/100W Phillips Halogen bulbs:
OEM Harness LB 0.6V drop max
KD Harness LB 0.3V drop max
OEM Harness 4 lamp 0.6V max drop LB bulb
1.2V max drop HB bulb
KD Harness 4 lamp 0.3V max drop LB bulb
0.3V max drop HB bulb
The Kennedy harness cut the LB voltage drop in half. The improvement was more dramatic in the HB 4 lamp mode with the LB bulb voltage loss decreased by 50% and the HB bulb voltage loss diminished by a factor of FOUR (400%) using the KD harness.
These numbers confirm what I see when using the headlights. There is NO dimming of the LB bulb(s) with 4 lamp operation. Whether you opt to use the higher wattage bulbs or the OEM bulbs - YOU WILL SEE AN IMPROVEMENT in your headlight illumination.
The harness has individual 12V power and ground leads for the DS and PS, along with heavy duty weather-proof relays (2). Heavy gauge wire is used throughout with first rate weather pak connectors. A removable diode converts the harness from 2 lamp HB to 4 lamp HB use. The harness is covered with split loom.
JK told me the harness kit fits 1990 to present with composite lamps. Kits available for most other models as well.
I do not know pricing on this kit, since I was "volunteered" and the kit arrived at my door unsolicited. You will have to check with JK.
I like it a lot!!!
==================================================
I've had the KD harness on my truck about 1 year now and remained extremely pleased with the improved light output.
Here is the link to a lengthy discussion on the KD harness:
http://forum.62-65-dieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=7&t=001949&p=
ON EDIT: I removed some of the ==== to see if the width problem improved.
2Nd EDIT: Removed more ====
[ 10-22-2002: Message edited by: mdrag ]
[ 11-04-2002: Message edited by: mdrag ]</p>
There is some interesting stuff here in addition.....
I have the 4 headlight control,and the Fog light control ....If I ever get it on would be a plus......
Inexpensive and you don't have to deal with the SHORT life bulbs......
MAC
[ 10-15-2002: Message edited by: mackin ]
[ 10-25-2002: Message edited by: mackin ]</p>
What if you want 4 beam hign beams AND fog lights? Does the Kennedy system do that or do you need a seperate fog light kit?
JimWilson
10-16-2002, 15:09
stylinconcepts.com has a kit that will do it for less then $20, including shipping. The Kennedy wiring harness may indeed have all the benefits as described, but IMO it's too much money.
It is expensive but there's nothing out there that gives you all OEM connectors and sealed Weatherpack relays. You get what you pay for.
DmaxMaverick
10-16-2002, 22:22
I've seen that kit from stylinconcepts. I think you are asking for trouble with it. The OEM wiring harness barely handles the lights as they come. Doubling the demand on the system will surely fail sooner or later. The stylinconcepts kit uses the existing OEM wiring for the lights. Only a diode is added to provide the 4 light system (about $4 in parts, if you use gold connectors). Kennedy's harness has the same setup included in the kit, but it is an addition to the full harness.
I have the Kennedy harness and can't stand to drive any other vehicle at night. Although you could gather all the parts and make your own, Kennedy makes it just too easy. The kit installs easy and works as advertised. Sure, it's overpriced when you compare to the individual cost of parts. You are paying for enginuity, design and simplicity. The parts are a bonus.
Sorry if that sounded like a commercial.
Jelisfc
Just turn them on. They will work at the same time. If you want to make them work 'automatically' with the high beams, it would be easy to just add another relay into the high beam circuit.
DmaxMaverick, I wasn't sure if the fogs would stay on with the high beams. All my other GM vehicles turn the fogs off when the high beams are on. Since the harness fools the low beams into staying on I'll assume the fogs are fooled too.
Jelisfc,
On my '01, the KD harness does NOT change the fog light operation without some other mod - that is the fog lights turn OFF when you turn on the HB (2 or 4 lamp HB).
You may want to check with Kennedy to see if this has changed...
mdrag
FirstDiesel
10-17-2002, 17:08
Jelisfc
I think your looking at it backwards. Stock the fogs turn off with the high beams. With the harness the fogs still turn off with the highbeams since the fogs are linked to the highbeams. Doesn't matter what the low beams are doing. Also the harness only attaches to the high beams, lowbeams, battery and stock headlight harness. No connections to the fogs. I'd like to leave them on too.
It works the same on the 2003 as MDRAG stated. Highs on or Highs with Lows on together, fogs go out. I guess there is no need for fogs on with high beams. If you are in fog, the highs will blind your vision and if you are not in fog, you don't need your highs on anyway.
Professor
10-18-2002, 11:38
There are some DOT regulations that require the Driving/Fog/Auxiliary lights to turn off when the high beams come on. Most states will enforce DOT regulations as part of their
Before you get excited about adding the driving/fog lights when on high beam I'd suggest 2 things:
1) Try the fog lights w/o the headlights on once. I think the local Amish have just about as much light with their oil lanterns. :rolleyes:
2) Try my 4 light setup with the big bulbs. You aren't missing a thing...
If it still bothers you that they are not on, I suppose a guy could add a simple pass through shunt off to the driving lights but this would get them no matter what when the high beams are on. As Professor stated though, if you delay dimming or are seen with "all guns blazing" you might just attract the attention of the law.
John's right. You can hardly tell they're on half the time. The do give you some peripheral light, that's about it.
The stock so called FOG lights are worthless.....I wouldn't waste my time with them,hell I melted mine....Get a replacement Pia air dam toss some 520's in and they will give you a Lighted path to follow HEADLIGHTS or NOT !!!!!!
MAC :D :eek:
The salesman who sold me my 2003 told me GM made the Fog Lights brighter compared to the earlier models. Mine seem noticeably bright when turned on. Not like ones on my 2001 Malibu that are worthless.
[ 10-19-2002: Message edited by: jbplock ]</p>
What's the wattage??? Look in your manual for replacement lamp.....I think mine were 28 watts..I jumped to 55 watts and melted....Best you could upgrade to is 37 (8) watts something like that.....
MAC
The manual didn't have a listing for the Fog Lamp... just head lamps, tail lights, roof markers ect. When I get a chance I'll look to what the bulb my 2003 has installed.
Hey Mittie,
How often do you actually use those big fancy PIAA's nowadays???
DMAXdreamin
10-20-2002, 11:48
OK, I have a confession to make. Based on recommendations on this site, I previously did buy the Kennedy kit. I agree that the kit is VERY well made and worth the money. Only problem is
DMAX Daddy
10-20-2002, 11:51
My 2003 fog lights are a tremendous amount brighter than our 2002 shops trucks foggies
Kennedy,
With your harness and the 70/100W Phillips bulbs, the PIAA 80 Pro XT's driving lights with 120W bulbs are noticable, adding to the beam pattern high and outside - but IMHO they don't add enough to make it worth buying the PIAA. I may convert them to the pencil beam pattern by changing the lenses :eek:
DMAXdreamin,
Almost every 'problem' with the Kennedy harness that I've seen posted ends up being a ground problem. When I first installed mine, I used existing bolts on the rad support for the ground, and the lights weren't working properly. I checked these bolts with a multimeter and found they were not providing a good ground ON MY TRUCK. I don't know if there was a coating, thread locker, or paint on these bolts that prevented good contact. It's also possible that the headlight circuit is different...
mdrag
[ 10-20-2002: Message edited by: mdrag ]</p>
Dmaxdreamin,
I am pretty sure that we will find a wiring pinout change for the projector lamps and need to change the 4 lamp plug. Local dealer has a Denali on the lot so I'll try to stop by and see it.
The '03 driving lights may well be brighter as I had a "pretty boy" behind me today and they did seem bright. Guess it's the coolest to have parking/fog lights on during the day. :rolleyes: Me I just set a bottle cap on the light sensor and run the headlights all the time...
JimWilson
10-21-2002, 10:38
mackin;
I found a set of 37 watt bulbs that fit perfectly into the factory fogs. They still suck, but at least now you can tell you turned them on! tongue.gif :D
JimWilson
10-21-2002, 10:51
John Kennedy;
I've noticed that your wiring harness has been zealously defended by a small, but vocal, group on a number of occasions. While it may be of the utmost quality -- something I'm not disputing at all -- I still have serious reservations about the cost-to-performance benefits ratio, but I do have a question I'd like to ask you; if it truly does have such a profound impact on the light output, how come you mention higher wattage bulbs on your web site? Shouldn't it make a noticeable difference regardless of what bulbs are used? I was able to substantially increase my light output with just the PIAA bulbs, so I'm a little confused on what additional benefit your harness would provide, given my circumstances.
JimWilson
10-21-2002, 10:56
mackin;
The PIAA airdam and the 520's are the exact setup I'm checking out right now (well, I'm looking at the fog lights instead, so it's not the exact same setup). How are those lights? Does that stupid PIAA name across the stone guard screw up the light output? And is there airdam any good? It looks black on the web site.
IndigoDually
10-21-2002, 12:30
Jim, While there may not be a noticable difference in light output with the JK harness and stock bulbs, the harness does allow you to safely upgrade the bulbs to higher wattage ones. The 4 bulbs on can be achieved in other ways this is the most efficient way to get all lights on and get full voltage and adequate amperage to use a higher wattage bulb. Surely if You look at the wiring that the factory uses for the headlights you will see some tiny wires. I believe that the tiny wires would overheat and there would be a considerable voltage drop when a larger load is placed on them.
My '02 is the first truck that I have not added relays to run parking lamps for my trailers due to the fact that GM finally got their act together and made them independent systems. In GM's and Fords I used to burn out headlight switches due to the loads imposed upon them, so I added relays to run parking lights.
John
We defend our purchase cause it cost so much and we don't want to look stupid.
JimWilson,
See my post above - I did see improvement with the stock bulbs and Kennedy's harness. I feel the harness gives you the option of SAFELY running higher wattatge bulbs if you choose.
QUOTE:
==================================================
"...These numbers confirm what I see when using the headlights. There is NO dimming of the LB bulb(s) with 4 lamp operation. Whether you opt to use the higher wattage bulbs or the OEM bulbs - YOU WILL SEE AN IMPROVEMENT in your headlight illumination..."
==================================================
hoot,
^^ :D :D :D
mdrag
JimWilson
10-21-2002, 13:55
Well, at least your honest hoot... :D :D
mdrag;
But the question I posed to John was what will it do for someone who already has higher-output bulbs? With the PIAA eXtreme Whites I've got a very bright white light now. And according to my meter I'm getting about 11.8 volts at the low beam connector on the back of the headlight assembly now. Are you saying that the voltage gets increased more then that?
BTW; in NJ 70 watt low beams and 100 watt high beams are considered illegal, so being able to run bulbs of that wattage is not something I'd feel comfortable doing. Besides, with as high up as the lights are on my truck I'd be afraid of blinding on-coming traffic, something I definitely won't do.
IndigoDually
10-21-2002, 14:55
In Jersey anything is legal as long as You don't get caught. :D
BTW are You getting 11.8 volts with the engine running? If so then that's a little low to me.
The other thing is if for some bizarre reason I get a ticket for too bright lights, it's still cheaper than my deductable is if I hit a deer. (Even though I got one last week. Deer 0 D-Max 1 ) no damage just straightened the front license plate, the plow frame got him.
John
[ 10-21-2002: Message edited by: IndigoDually ]</p>
Professor
10-21-2002, 15:03
But the question I posed to John was what will it do for someone who already has higher-output bulbs? With the PIAA eXtreme Whites I've got a very bright white light now. And according to my meter I'm getting about 11.8 volts at the low beam connector on the back of the headlight assembly now. Are you saying that the voltage gets increased more then that?
BTW; in NJ 70 watt low beams and 100 watt high beams are considered illegal, so being able to run bulbs of that wattage is not something I'd feel comfortable doing. Besides, with as high up as the lights are on my truck I'd be afraid of blinding on-coming traffic, something I definitely won't do.
___________________________________
Jim,
I
This thread is getting too darn hard to read. Is there any way possible to confine the width? My little 17" monitor has me scrolling left and right.
I guess if someone with just the harness and std bulbs would care to comment, it would likely mean more than coming from me. Mdrag did a whole slew of tests as to voltages, and answered the question already. Fact is, the harness has the GREATEST effect when larger bulbs (and 4 light setup) are used, but still offers a substantial benefit with std. bulbs. Kind of like the 4" exhaust thing.
BTW, I think Hoot was being sarcastic...
[ 10-21-2002: Message edited by: kennedy ]</p>
The voltages I posted above were for the 70/100W Phillips bulbs used in the OEM and KD harness.
The voltages for the OEM bulbs in the OEM and Kennedy's harness were for all practical purposes the same +/- 0.1V. I also did the measurements at the factory idle speed and using the high idle speed of ~850 RPM for the various configurations - again with the same results - that is for all practical purposes the voltage differences I posted above were the same. I have TWO Fluke model 77 digital multimeters and periodically checked the measurements with each meter....
I really don't know what else to say, or what other voltage measurememt(s) is/are needed to answer the questions posed by JimWilson :confused:
My wife drives a high dollar fern' car with one of the better factory HID systems - the lights perform a self adjusting aiming routine for about 5 seconds EACH time they are turned on...so I know first hand what a GREAT lighting system can do.
BTW, I've NEVER been flashed with over 1 year of using Kennedy's harness and bulbs. Just the other night (after 2 am Fri or Sat), I got directly BEHIND a local LEO at a long redlight - and I don't have no mackin story to report... ;) :D ...and these guys look for ANY reason to pull you over to check for DUI on the weekends...
Kennedy,
I'm not sure what caused this topic to extend further to the right than usual - it may have been the cut and paste in my post above. Rather than scrolling side to side, choose VIEW from the menu at the top of IE, then TEXT SIZE, and choose a smaller font...this works on my 14" laptop display.
mdrag
John,
The reason this post is so wide is because someone places a whole string of characters together without spaces so the screen just keeps getting wider. This is usually caused by posting a long web site address without spaces, but a string of dashes, or other characters, will cause this also.
I believe this can be edited by the authur.
Don
Don,
Thanks for the tip on the 'characters'. I edited my post by removing some of the ==== signs I used to highlight my quote. Seems to have fixed the width problem but not the length... ;)
mdrag
F4miland
10-22-2002, 03:55
I used to go down to the local 4x4 shop and get a kit that would allow me to have high and low beams on all at once. It was pretty easy and the cost was low for this penny pincher.
Steve
Often when talk of an auxiliary headlight harness surfaces, someone mentions the low cost method of getting all 4 lights to come on at the same time.
Yes there are kits that are real cheap that allow all four at the same time. These kits merely tie the circuits together with a relay. They do nothing to alleviate the added load on the already small wiring going through the dash light switch and back to the headlights. The stock wiring was not designed for all four on at the same time.
So what this "boosting" harness does is it circumvents the stock wiring by plugging into it and only using it as the "control" circuit. That way you are still using your light switch but now the light switch is only a switching minimal "control" load. It switches the relays on and off which in turn connect the meat and potatoes part of the harness directly to the bat/alt.
So it's all in what you want in a finished product.
Four lights on, taxing the existing wiring...
Four lights on, completely independant of the light duty wiring with the option of going to higher wattage bulbs and no concern about overload.
You have different types of people looking at this stuff coming from different directions. Some people could care less about upgrading their headlight system. Some of these people think we are kooks. Some want to but don't believe in spending money to do it.
Then you have the esoteric crowd that jumps on every aftermarket option/add-on that hits the pipeline (I'm not mentioning any names but I'm glad he fixed his signature.) ;)
I think I fall in the middle somewhere. The headlight thing to me is a real benefit. The light output is so much greater. Helps a lot when driving country roads. I have stock low beam bulbs and 100W high beam bulbs. Reason..... Higher wattage low beam bulbs burn out in six months cause they are always on at night. Higher wattage high beam bulbs last real long cause they are only on intermitantly.
I also have a kit installed that changes the default to "on" for my foglights. In otherwords, when the headlights come on, so do the fogs. If I want them off, I hit the button. They still turn off when the highs go on.
You also get to put it in your signature ;) Makes us special.
[ 10-22-2002: Message edited by: hoot ]</p>
Professor
10-22-2002, 07:42
The joy of nice high power bright head lights:
Ever flash your bright lights and see it reflect on the green interstate exits signs?
Ever see it from two miles away? :D
JimWilson
10-22-2002, 08:57
As you all can probably tell by my sig I'm not afraid to spend money for accessories I think are useful, and lighting is most certainly high on my list. That's why the Kennedy harness was so intriguing to me in the first place, but I was taken aback by the price. Now, if I'm gonna see some marked improvement then that's worth considering, but if I'm not then it isn't. John may have crafted a tremendous product, and I'm certainly not debating that aspect of it, but I do have to be conscience of a budget to some degree, otherwise I get my better half looking to strangle me! smile.gif
mdrag;
I'm surprised you haven't had anyone annoyed by 70 watt bulbs. My eXtreme Whites are 55 and on occasion I've had people flash there brights at me. Are those plain old halogens or are they a "super white" type of bulb too?
Kennedy;
No, your response is indeed significant. After all, you designed and sell the product in question. While it's obvious yours would be a biased opinion it's still the most factual from an engineering perspective. That's important.
Professor;
Electricity and wiring is definitely not a foreign topic to me; I'm a computer engineer, so I know a thing or two about it. smile.gif And your input was done very well -- quite descriptive and easy to understand.
My experience has been:
1) Stock wiring is too small.
2)The C/K trucks eat headlight switches like candy. Even with the headlight load, the park lamps will eat them if you have extra light load.
3) The C/K trucks seem to be harder on bulbs due to the DRL/low voltage thing. Eliminate the DRL's and bulb life is much better.
4) The C/K trucks have a very small fusible link coming from the alternator as compared to the mongo wire that we have with the Dmax. This is one of the reasons for allowing an alternator stud hookup. Not such a factor with the Dmax though.
5)The Silverado appears to have removed the load from the headlight switch, BUT has teeny wires for the lamps.
6) My Phillips bulbs as well as Gardnerteam's have been in and running for 10 months. Mine were out for 1 month while I was running the Hellas for test purposes. I now have the same pr of Phillips bulbs in. I run my headlights 99% of the time, and have recently added a bottle cap over my daylight sensor to get auto on 100% of the time. I have 26k on my truck bought new 12/18/01, and ALWAYS use the 4 lamp high beam.
7) I aim my lights very near horizontal, and pretty much straight ahead with a Hoppy headlight aimer kit. I haven't been flashed in a long time by oncoming traffic, BUT occasionally when I pass someone on the freeway, they will hit their high beams on my backside. I'm oirnery enough to slow down/stop and return the favor.
8) I bought the PIAA Super whites in all their $60/pr glory, and got like 2 months out of them before they failed. The only thing that I saw was a change in color/reflectivity, but no major gain in visibility. Phillips has Blue Vision which is similar, and Narva has some similar bulbs. Back to the coating/tinting thing. It supresses light...
Jim Wilson,
You reported 11.8v as tested. Was this with the engine running? I would ask that you try this again, and then check against battery voltage. Be sure to have a hot engine and a few minutes of idle time with minimal accessories running to stabilize voltage.
Professor
10-22-2002, 09:43
Jim,
All I can base the annoyance factor on is oncoming traffic flicking their bright lights on me to signal to me to turn off my bright lights. I ran the 80-130 H4s on my Corvette for at least 5 years. The H4s were in a
JimWilson
10-22-2002, 14:12
John Kennedy;
Would you prefer to be called John or Kennedy? I've seen both used, but I'm not certain of your preference.
And now, in response to your points...
1. I would tend to agree with you here. When I spliced into the high and low beams to add the 4 light diode they did look a bit cheesy to me. Funny thing to skimp on, especially seeing as how my truck stickered for almost $39k.
2, 3 and 4 don't seem to apply to me, at least I don't think they do...
5. See #1.
6. Geez, I wish I could *remove* that silly headlight sensor. We apparently feel a bit differently about that "feature". :D
7. Lucky devil -- I wish I had a headlight aimer at my disposal! I spend countless hours trying to perfect the alignment of my lights. There's an abandoned Laneco food store about a mile from me, and around the back of the building there's a billiard table flat driveway (even checked it with a level! :D ) that butts up against a cinderblock wall. The cinderblocks are nice because there's a line of concrete between each layer, so you have a good reference. But it's still a PITA.
8. That surprises me, on both accounts. I've installed dozens -- literally -- of PIAA bulbs in a host of different vehicles and had only 1 H3 and 1 9006 fail me. And that has to be over a period of 8-10 years by now. And in every instance I not only saw a color difference but a noticeable visibility improvement as well. However, I'll be the first to admit there products are a bit overpriced, but until I can find an acceptable alternative I'm afraid there's really no choice but to buy PIAA. Now, if someone knows of something equal to, or better then, the PIAA's I'm all ears... ;)
DaveRuane
10-24-2002, 09:19
Hey JimWilson, 37-watt bulbs in factory fogs will eventually cause a meltdown. I had them in for about 8 months before I noticed the reflector melted off and the top of the fog-light assembly started melting. I now have a PIAA Air Dam and 40-series as a result...
JimWilson
10-25-2002, 11:45
DaveRuane;
Are those PIAA's fog lights or driving lights? I was looking at the 40's in a fog light, but wasn't able to find out if the light pattern was any good. I want something that is full, bright, very even and extremely wide, like the Micro DE at this page:
http://www.hella.com/produktion/HellaPortal/WebSite/Internet_en/ProductsServices/ForDriversAccessories/LightTunnel/LightTunnel***p
I put those on my wifes Mitsubishi Montero Sport about a year ago, and they're awesome -- just like the picture on the web, actually -- but they would look a little silly on a truck as big as mine.
EDIT: Saaaay, this forums filtering is setup WAY to tight. The end of that URL should read ". j s p", without the quotes or spaces of course. What could be misconstrued as offensive about that is beyond me... :(
[ 10-25-2002: Message edited by: JimWilson ]</p>
Jim,
I'm
Sorry
I
didn't
respond
to
your
post
as
I
hate
these
threads
you
have
to
scroll
left
to
right
on.......
So
I
Stopped
viewing
it......
It
is
Mdrag's
fault...
:D
The
Piaa
Dam
Is
nice...
Yes
it
is
Black
But
so
is
my
truck....
:D
You
could
have
it
painted.....
The
Piaa
Insignia
on
the
lamps
are
not
noticable
when
illuminated....
If
you
want
more
info
start
a
new
thread
or
email
me......
MAC
tongue.gif
IndigoDually
10-25-2002, 16:45
Mac,
You
are
a
wise
@ss.
Gotta
stir
the
pot
every
opportunity
You
get.
:D
:D
:D
J
o
h
n
Mackin get a real monitor like the rest of us have. I think they come bigger than 14" now ;)
[ 10-25-2002: Message edited by: hoot ]</p>
mackin,
I DID fix my post as mentioned above - way up there...The entire post WIDTH fits on my 14" laptop screen without scrolling - even at the large font setting...
If you are still having problems, you may need to empty your browser cache. If you are using IE, choose TOOLS, INTERNET OPTIONS, GENERAL tab, and then DELETE FILES in the Temporary Internet Files heading...
To everyone else:
Could this be the answer? Wide screen posts = mackin bug light.... ;) :D tongue.gif
mdrag
[ 10-25-2002: Message edited by: mdrag ]</p>
Sory guys, but WHAT A WAY TO SCREW UP A TOPIC!!!
Mdrag, thanks for editing, it works fine for me now. It's the vertically stretched posts that are a waste... :rolleyes:
HEY !!!!!!
:D
All right I got rid of one.......
Still does the same thing after cleaning cache....
Running Netscape...
Booted up IE ,never viewed this thread imediately went wide screen....
Eh forget it....
Sorry JK ,but you brought it up..... ;)
MAC smile.gif
[ 10-26-2002: Message edited by: mackin ]</p>
DMAXdreamin
11-04-2002, 11:04
Update. Finally got my Kennedy lighting harness working and it is fantastic. The problem was caused by one of the pins inside a control connector being pushed all the way to the side of the connector. Consequently, it would not trip the relay. Other than this issue, which is not the wiring harness
Thanks Mdrag, learn something new everyday here.
1. Voltage Drop
2. And more importantly on this post, changing the text size!
Thanks Kennedy for a great harness - my lights are more to what I would have expected from the factory, and I haven't been flashed in about 14 night time trips! smile.gif
I also just purchased and installed JK's headlight kit. Very good quality and easy installation.
Couple questions for those of you with the kit.
Where exactly did you install the two relays??
I installed mine next to the passenger side battery in the two holes where the hood closes.
Its a very tight fit and would like to move them somewhere else.
Next question, did anyone have difficulty with the short lengths of wiring that has the bulb connectors on the ends?
I'm talking about the length after the wires have left the harness.
Yes I was being sarcastic. ;)
The harness works great and has been working flawlessly. I enjoy having the reassurance that the higher wattage bulbs won't become an electrical issue. I love the 4 light highs.
I never got around to fastening the relays. They are loosely wedged between the pass side battery and the a/c lines.
SoMnDMAX
11-10-2002, 22:20
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=510604&uid=136857&members=1
Follow this link to the pictures of my harness installation. The sixth picture down shows the relay mounting location I used. The relays are mounted on the passenger side, behind the grille.
FirstDiesel
11-11-2002, 05:44
I used an existing bolt sticking out of the firewall on the drivers side near the power brake booster. All I did was put both relays on the bolt at a 90 degree angle to each other and run a nut onto it.
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