Plumbing aux. tank to D-max

[imported_]

I need some advice,I installed a 60 gallon tool
box,fuel tank cobo in My DMax a year ago.I use
an electric fuel pump to tranfer fuel to a fitting
in the fuel neck.The pump is below the tank inside
the fender well.It was working fine untill the
other day when I walked into my shop and diesel
fuel was everywhere.Somehow the fuel was siphoning
from the bed tank to the truck tank and coming
out around the fuel cap.I lost about 15 gallons.
Do I also need a electric solenoid to make sure
the fuel is getting shut off? There must be a better way to plumb this thing.Will gravity work
with a manual valve? Can it just be plumbed into
the fuel lines?

[Turbo Al]

Tranfered to the Accesories forum -- those guys need all the posts they can get ;)

[Captain Mal]

Raye,

Install an UNVENTED cap on the main fuel tank filler. You may also want to look and see if you need to raise the vent tube higher inside the bed area. I did not have to do that but you may.

Make sure there is a vented cap on your upper fuel tank and that should do it. I have tanks that I put manual shut-off valves in line and vent lines to the top tanks. I can leave them on when all is full and have not had problems since doing that.

Oh yes, I had a mess like you described at first. The non-vented cap was the answer and the manual shut-offs gave me piece ( or is it 'peace'?) of mind.

[imported_]

I have a vented cap on the aux.tank,but it doesn't
vent enough when transfering fuel,I have to loosen the cap to transfer,or it builds up pressure.There is no other tank vent,fuel came out of the vents I've tried to install.I also
had to drill a hole in the main tank cap to get
fuel to transfer without building pressure in
the main tank.(A vented cap is only vented in)

[ccds]

I have a transfer tank and I use a electric pump and an electric solenoid that both turn on and off from the same timed switch. The timed switch will only run for 8mins. and then it shuts off. It transfers about 22 litres of fuel.
If I need more fuel I hit the switch again and the cycle is repeated.

I have never had problems with fuel draining into the main fuel tank since I put the solenoid on.

You can take a look at my pic's there is one marked fuel tank to see how I did it.

smile.gif

[Jim Cobler]

I, also, have a 60 gal. tank in my bed and I used a 6 port electric valve. You run both the factory tank and the extra tank lines to the valve and then through a frame mounted fuel filter (I used the Baldwin Fuel/Water seperator BF1213).

When you flip the switch, which I mounted under my dash, it changes tanks and gages if you have a gage in your extra tank. This way you can monitor fuel levels in the bed tank from your dash gage. Mine works very well.

[TBC]

My tank is installed like Jim Cobler's and no problems. Raye, if your didnot have the problem from the start you probably have a failed check valve in the pump. The check valve prevents back flow into the source tank so that it stays primed. If it fails the fuel under gravity flow can flow thru the pump into the main tank.
To prevent being caught in a bad situation since your set up does not meet DOT standards and have to face a lawsuit in case of accident I recommend installing the tank like Jim Cobler described to include a rollover valve.

Tom Cobb

[Paintdude]

Get a diverter valve for a 1984 Chevy with dual tanks..Standard makes one..Block off one of the outlets and use the other one for a shut off..

[1822]

ccds- Where did you get the timed switch? My tank is wired just like yours but I have trouble remembering to turn the pump off. Usually the splashing sound I hear when I stop reminds me. It must be that CRS syndrome.

[ccds]

I got it from on of the local electronic parts wholesale, it is a generic electronic timer.
Think it cost me about $50. cdn. It has adjustment on it so you can set the amount of time you want it to stay on. I wired it through a momentary lighted switch. So once I start it the light comes on and it goes through its set time and when it turns off the lighted switch goes off. It works great.
Then there is no over filling because you forgot to turn it off. I did that a couple of times and then got the timer.

hope this helps

smile.gif

[ 02-17-2003: Message edited by: ccds ]

[ 02-17-2003: Message edited by: ccds ]</p>

[imported_]

I looked at a diverter valve,but they are to
small,I've got 1/2 in fittings,the diverter
valve is only 5/16.Where can I get a 12 volt
solenoid with 1/2 in. fittings? Thanks.

[Paintdude]

Reduce the hose size..You do not need 1/2 inch hose for force feed or are you gravity feeding it?

you might check with a Semi truck store for a larger one, Freightliner,Mack,etc..

[imported_]

The 1/2in. line transfers fuel a lot faster than a
5/16.I had the smaller lines on a previous truck.
I've tried several truck places,they don't use
solenoids to control fuel supplies.

[PJD15X]

I think that using a system like yours is illegal according to DOT regulations.
Do yourself a favor and spend a few bucks and do it right. Check this site: auxtank.com
They have a nice set up for switching from one tank to the other including the fuel sender. You can read both tanks (one at a time) with their set up. They are great people to do business with.

No I am not related to anyone there.

Good Luck
Paul

[Paintdude]

Raye,are you getting the fuel from the bottom of the aux tank? If you are that is your problem..You have to get the fuel from the top of the tank with a hose or stem going down into the tank..by getting the fuel from the bottom you will have to much pressure in the lines at all times..60 gallons of fuel pressure on the pump-shut off..Change it and put a rollover valve in it also..Then you will be legal and cure your problems..IMO

A 3/8 force feed will transfer faster than you can use it...I think the Gm diverter valve is 3/8..

[ 02-17-2003: Message edited by: Paintdude ]</p>

[imported_]

I'm just using an electric pump to tranfer fuel
from my aux tank to the main tank when it gets
low,so I want to do it as fast as I can. The fuel
line pulls fuel off the bottom of the tank.The
fitting is at the top,but a steel line goes from
there to the bottom.My truck was just inspected
by the dot last week,it's required once a year,
cost me $75.00.I've used this for over a year
with no problem,just can't figure out what's
changed.

[earniem]

I have read all the replies to the man wanting to hook up an extra tank. I know of no other way to get a hold of Jim Cobler and TBC. I havbe a 2003 duramax and have encountered some problems hooking my extra tank up. In my 1996 it was easy. this rig has a fuel cooler on the return line at the tank. and the guage does not want to work right when the tanks are switched. I could use some advice or help. I have the parts to do the hook up. redface.gif

I have a 2003 2500HD 4x4 4dr long box. air horn, bed liner & wheel to wheel nerf bars sprayed with Line-X

[ 02-17-2003: Message edited by: earniem ]

[ 02-19-2003: Message edited by: earniem ]</p>

[Paintdude]

I run a T fitting in mine in the transfer line and run it as a return to the Aux tank ie:vent..Then I vent the Aux tank from the rollover valve..Confused? smile.gif

[earniem]

With the 6 port valve you have a complete change from one tank to the other,Guage and all. A T fitting would defeat that. The supply and vent have to be hooked up to the same tank.

[Paintdude]

I fill to the Oem tank via: the fuel neck..I opted to NOT cut ANY Oem lines..It is a Tranfer tank..Not Aux..sorry fo the confusion.. smile.gif

[Jim Cobler]

Earnie,

If you want to talk about my tank set up, you may E-Mail me at jcobler@cox.com I would be happy to share my experience with you.

[mtomac]

is $250 a good price for a new 100-110 gal steel transfer tank?

[TBC]

Earnie

You can contact me at tbcobb@mindspring.com. Be glad to help in anyway I can. I had a problem with the gage decreasing to fast and found that it was a tank and gage grounding problem. The gage in the tank has a cork or some other material similar for a gasket. The gage needs to be grounded real well to the tank and the tank to the truck body.

There is not any problem with the cooler. You need to cut the supply and return lines forward of that and connect the 6 port valve into the system. Works fine. Be sure and install an inline fuel filter.

Contact me if needed.

Tom Cobb

[earniem]

Thanks a lot you guys I appreciate your help.

[ 02-19-2003: Message edited by: earniem ]</p>