running speaker wires

[Silver Bullet]

I am in the process or running speaker wires to front and rear doors. I know how to take everything off except the plastic covers that need to be removed to run the wire to each door.

Does anyone have tips/tricks to do this without breaking any of plastic or clips?

Thanks.

[thechevyhdman]

Do you mean the interior door panels? Someone just posted on this recently check in this forum(Accessories)

[Silver Bullet]

Door panels are no problem...I am talking about the B-pillars, kick panels and door seals (btwn the rubber seal and the carpet).

[thechevyhdman]

They all just pull right off. The door jamb down by carpet covers pop off by pulling them straight up. Then you have to finagle it from underneath the seat. The kick panel? Where the hood release is? That comes off by pulling towards the back of the truck.

[Silver Bullet]

Thanks! All sounds pretty easy...I'll report back after I get a chance to break all the clips! :D

[TG]

Silver Bullet

You might take a look at www.ttt-mirror.com. They have install directions there for the Schafenacker mirrors, and the instructions (with excellent photos) show the steps to remove the door panels, kick cover, etc. The mirrors have running lights and require running wires for them.

Good Luck,

TG :D

[motovet]

SB, Are you just upgrading speakers or doing the whole system? Reason I ask is running new wires through the boots is not real fun. I ran new wire to the fronts cause I wanted the crossovers under the cup holder.If it weren't for that I would have tapped into the stock wire behind the HU. The stock wiring can handle 100+ watts no problem. There would be no noticeable audible difference with the larger guage. If you want to do something to really bring out whatever system you put in use some sound deadener in the doors,floors,rear deck, and the pilars. It does wonders for the sound quality in these trucks.

[Alli-max]

motovet....

Talked to Silverbullet the other day, and he is doing an ENTIRE upgrade. He bought a Craig Powerplay HU, and a really cool eq/booster from Wal Mart that has some pretty lights. And those 6X9's with the silver/chrome dustcaps. tongue.gif

Seriously.... he is putting in a pretty nice setup, MBQ speaks, a 10, alpine amp, and pioneer HU

[Silver Bullet]

Thanks TG...EXCELLENT!!! :cool:

Alli-max is on the money except I hit up K-Mart at the going outta business sale...

Vet - That is good to know about the stock wires. I am going to try to do my best to leave the stock wires untouched...it looks like the B-pillar may be the only challenge. My position on this is subject to change once I start running the wires! :D

[motovet]

Initially I had used the stock wires in the doors, but decided I didn't want the crossovers in the door as they were damp after only two weeks. After running new wires to move the crossovers under the cup holder I noticed no difference. The job isn't to bad...I just had a few choice words when I was messing with the boots! I don't know if you are going to amp the rear fill or not, but either way the stock stuff should be plenty back there. Heck I rarely even run the fill... messes with the imaging. The comp set and the 10's sound best to me by themselves. These doors scream for some sound deadener..in stock form it is a crappy environment for a good set of comps such as the Quartz you chose. My Bostons sounded good when first installed, but sounded pheonominal after a couple layers of deadener.I couldn't stop there... I did the whole truck. System rocks now...plus no more road noise.

[Silver Bullet]

Vet,
I am planning on hitting the doors w/some deadener when I install the speakers. If all goes well I will hit everything else (floor and back wall of cab) at a later date. I was planning on mounting my crossovers in the back close to the amp, but I like the idea of putting them under the cup holder.

Did you run you power from the battery right down the middle? If so, is there any thing I need to be aware of in regards to having the speaker wires (16 ga.) and power wire (4 ga.) close together?

[motovet]

I ran all the power wires down the left side door sill,(both amp 4 gua. and XM). The RCA,XM,and speaker wire I ran down the right side sill. Best to keep the power and signal wires seperated so you won't pick up any noise. If you go to caraudioforum.com and do a search on sound deadener you will get a lot of info and links to suppliers. I used FATMAT, it was a buck a square' and was easy to use. I also used some of the peel-n-stick you can get at Home Depot etc. Same material but a bit thiner and comes 6" wide only. Have fun, I did.... now what to do? MMMM.... maybe the travel trailer?

[Silver Bullet]

It is done! I ran 4 ga. power down the DS middle, pre-amp down the PS middle, and speaker wires around on the outside. It sounds great! I did not put in my deadener as it was too damn cold last weekend to do it...it will have to wait until it warms up a little!

[motovet]

I know what you mean about the cold. My wife could'nt wait till I was done because I had the garage heat cranked for the few days I worked with the stuff. Power bill should be interesting but it was much easier to work when warm. Glad the system is sounding good. Makes it that much easier to find a reason for a drive.

[ 02-19-2003: Message edited by: motovet ]</p>

[Silver Bullet]

After a couple days of driving...the sub sounds good with the seat up and really kicks if the seat is down. My box is about to go to version 1.5!!! I am going to add a couple "bumpers" to push the back of the seat forward to give the sub about 1/4"-1/2". Right now it is a VERY tight fit! My other option is to replace the front and back of my box with 5/8" as I used 3/4" in the construction. I designed the box to be able to do this without changing the volume. Looking back on it I should have built the box with 5/8" from the get-go!

[ 02-19-2003: Message edited by: Silver Bullet ]</p>