Ball mount and 2-5/16 ball recommendations

[bora]

I need to buy a ball mount and a 2-5/16 inch ball for towing a roughly 6000 lb trailer.

What is the recommendation? I see some for 20 bucks at walmart, but I would like to get the best.

Thanks

Bora

[battmain]

Do a search for 'Reese' and 'Hitches' to find the Reese website. You can find out what ratings are on the balls for that size. Then when you go to Walmart, you can see if the balls have that rating. For that size, you should be able to get a 10k rated ball, but I've seen some at 5k. Of course, you do NOT want to use that 5k one for your 6k trailer. The rating is actually imprinted in the ball itself. IMO, It really doesn't matter where you buy it as long as it is rated more than your trailer.

[Me4OSU]

Go to a farm/ranch supply store and get one. The only real difference I would be concerned about is to get the big shank. You should find 2 sizes of shank . . . larger should be stronger.

[SoMnDMAX]

I use a shock absorbing ballmount that's rated at 10,000 pounds, made by Convertaball... It's part number AM-SC-2.

http://www.convertaball.com/ballmounts.htm

I also useone of their ball kits- Part number 900. If I could do it all over again, I'd buy the stainless steel set. Our Minnesota winters and road salt have made ball changing difficult sometimes.

http://www.convertaball.com/ballsshanks.htm

The cushioned ball mount is a nice piece. It'll cushion the beating you can take when pulling a light trailer. It's money well spent.

[ 02-04-2003: Message edited by: SoMnDMAX ]</p>

[Stage 1]

Just something to consider,
Not sure what you are towing or distances that you will be towing. However at 6K lbs. you may want to consider a weight distributing hitch ( safety - more control of trailer and better ride) ( also many receivers are not rated for more then 5K wo/ weight distributing hitch), and possibly sway control(s), if your trailer will be succeptable to air off of semi's. I use Reese products and like them. Also, as I am sure you know, setup of the hitch is important to safe towing.
Happy towing :D

[a5150nut]

Go with the convertaball or uniball hitch. Same post and the balls change with a pin and o-rings. It is a hasle to change ball mounts when you need a 2" instead of 2 5/16. They are rated by the post size.

[mdadgar]

Bora,

Just go to Eyers Hitch on El Camino in Santa Clara. Tell them what you want and they'll sell you the best thing. The guy will need to measure the height of the receiver to appropriately select the right drop on the hitch.

[Mike Fultz]

I agree with Stage1, especially if your trailer is dual axle. I tow a 24' enclosed car trailer behind my 2500HD CC D/A with a Reese draw bar/ball coupler and Reese weight distibuting trunions. Works very well, trailer tows nicley, minor wind movement when large vehicles are passing me, and tire wear on all four trailer wheels is the same---important feature of weight distributing. Without weight distributing you will tend to load the front trailer tires heavier then the rear pair.

Mike

[bora]

Thanks,

This is a 20 ft total length, open alu. car trailer with a total weight including car of 5K lbs max. I am pretty sure the truck would handle it without a weight distributing hitch.

Bora

[Ranger354]

Bora,

I have a 2 5/16 ball that is rated for 20,000 on the bumper. Although the chevy tow package on my truck will not support that much load I darn sure don't want the ball to be the cause of a lost trailer. My goosneck hitch in the bed has a 2 5/16 ball that is rated for 30,000. They make them in all sizes and ratings. I had to buy a heavy duty reciever for the ball on the bumper because the shank size is much larger.

Adapt a Balls are ok if you don't use them much. Mine never seeemed to ground very well and made the trailer lights flicker at times. I went back to ALL carbon steel. Also FYI stainless is NOT as stong as carbon steel.

If I could just get the guys at work to make me one out of Inconel that would be the ticket.

[IndigoDually]

Just make sure the square tube on the ball mount is solid and not hollow. Hollow is for lightweight trailers.

John

[Burner]

Hey bora,

I'm with SoMnDMAX on the convert-a-ball system. I have the hitch and 3 stainless steel ball set. The hitch is rated at 10k with 2k on the hitch ball! I pull my 18+ ft trailer with no problem. I have pulled about 22k of my stock hitch with the O'le convert-a-ball system. I think that it is plenty for your purpose. They also make a pintle hitch with the ball system that's really nice. :D

-- on a note: if you get "any" quick ball changing system use belray chain lub on the pin. It is rubber safe, provides a wet to dry grease film and with the Zinc it is very durable.

Burner

[Burner]

More thought..... I pulled a loaded mixer (9 1/2 yards) off the Innerstate, around a 90 turn and down the road about 1/4 mile with my hitch. The hitch never bent even though it was a lessor of Stainless Steel, which does have better return.

- Ranger354 had mentioned that his lights flickered with the ball system. I am sure that they did if he used the SS to ground to.... However, If you will be pulling anything over 4k you really need trailer brakes. When wireing the trailer make sure that you use the trailer hitch as a back-up ground only. You will need to have the brakes gounded via~ the harness. That way if the system fails( ball or trailer couppling) your trailer can still be slowed, provided the chains are on, by using the axu brake switch in the truck.

I turn my shank up-side down and mount it. The trailer seems to load quite well. Both axels seem to carry equal weight. I like it because it keeps the shank from dragging the ground If it is heavely loaded.

Burner