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20050528|8|000731|000000|205.188.117.71
10-24-2003, 11:21
I want to run NITTO 365/65R16 (35x14.5) tires on 16x10 inch rims. Fabtech says that they do not recommend that size rim. Have you heard of problems with a 10 inch rim? I understand that the wider tire will have more clearance problems, and require more lift or trimming, but if I stick with the recommended backspacing I think it will work. I like the wider look, and I will get the Bushwacker flares to keep the tires under the truck.

If you are running 10 inch wide rims, would you recommend them?

Thanks,

Mark

ChrisG
10-25-2003, 22:54
Huck,

I think the biggest issue you would face is premature wear of the front end components (wheel bearings especially). The angular load of the wider wheel/tire combination increases dramatically the farther out you go from the hub. This isn't counting the extra wide tire weight. I agree that the wide stuff looks great but I've done enough front end work to know I won't do it to another of my trucks especially factory IFS systems.

I'd recommend doing a search on "Tie rods" before going that wide.

I guess it really depends on what you do/will do with your truck that counts the most. Highway, off road, pulling, or hauling do have different effects.

Just my.02

CG

20050528|8|000731|000000|205.188.117.71
10-27-2003, 07:28
Thanks Chris,

I think that the offset is the key to front end life when changing to aftermarket rims on IFS systems. I had 9.75 inch rims on an 88 GM truck with no premature wear problems in front end parts. I have read the stuff about the tie-rod ends, but I suspect that the people having the problems also have the torsion bars cranked up. I just like the look of a lifted truck with wide tires. If you go taller and not wider it does not look as nice to me. I just have to make up my mind on if I am going to buy a truck already lifted, or one that is not, and build it the way I want. I am leaning to the later. I just hope I can find the truck I want in my price range.

Thanks again,

Mark

AlanL
10-27-2003, 14:11
I don't have anything to back this up, but I'm doubting what you're saying about increased stress on the front end.

If the rim offsets are kept the same in relative terms then what's the difference?

For example, if you have a 5 inch rim with a 2.5 inch offset (so the mounting surface is right in the middle), and a 10 inch rim with a 5 inch offset, what's the difference? In both cases, the truck is being supported by the center of each rim with 50% of the weight on either side of the rim.

Please explain what's going on here? I just went from 6.5 inch to 8 inch (with preserved offset), but I'm wondering if I'm asking for trouble with front end parts.

As I said, I have nothing to back this up, so I'd like to understand the dynamics.

-Al

20050528|8|000731|000000|205.188.117.71
10-28-2003, 16:03
There are lots of rims to choose from. Many do not have an offset or backspacing that is comparable to what comes from the factory on IFS trucks. If you look at the factory rim, it looks opposite of what was normal, I mean that there is more tire under the truck or to the inside of wheel where the lug nuts are. Deep dish rims have more tire sticking outside of the truck or from the lug nuts out. That is why the tires stick out so far on IFS trucks with standard deep dish rims. The tire sticking out of the truck stresses the front end differently than if it is under the truck. The truck I mentioned had rims that appeared to have the lug nuts more in the middle of the rim. There is only so much room to stuff a tire under the truck before it hits something, that is why if you keep the same backspacing as the factory, and add width to the other side, you are preserving the factory setup as much as possible. This approach has worked for me in the past.

Hope I explained it well.

Mark

AlanL
10-29-2003, 08:43
Yes.. makes sense!

Basically it sounds like there's little room to keep the same offset, so the only option is to change it and put the extra width toward the outside of the rim/truck.

20050528|8|000731|000000|205.188.117.71
10-29-2003, 16:29
Exactly! That is what has worked for me.

Mark

ChrisG
10-30-2003, 20:38
Mark,

Happy hunting....I like the wide look as well. I think you'd be better off with a roll your own truck. Unless you know the history of the already lifted truck it could be trouble down the road. Keep us posted on the outcome (wheels/tires/lift etc.) so we can drool

Good Luck

CG

20050528|8|000731|000000|205.188.117.71
11-12-2003, 16:38
Thanks for the advice. I change my mind constantly about what I want to do if I ever do get my Duramax. My thinking today is to get a 2003 and build it myself. I would like the new 04, but it is out of my price range. I can get a 03 with fewer than 20 or 30K miles and save approximately $10,000! The buyer for my truck backed out and I have it up on the Auto trader web site. :( Some leads, but no signs of cash yet. Back to the Chevy. I did not like the look of the 03 front ends, but now they have grown on me, especially when they are lifted. If I did it today I would buy the Fabtech six inch lift and use Skyjacker

FIRELT
11-12-2003, 18:14
WI Huck---I HAVE HAD MY TRUCK LIFTED FOR ABOUT A YEAR AND A HALF ,6 IN. FABTECH,10X16 WELD(MOUNTAIN CHRUSHERS) ,36X14.5X16 PJ'S,I HAD TO DO SOME TRIMMING ON THE FRONT BUMPER AND A SMALL PIECE ON THE FLARE,TRUCK DRIVES AS GOOD AS STOCK,I HAVE SOME PIC'S IN MY SIG. WHEN THESE TIRES WEAR OUT I AM GOING TO GET THE NITTO 365X65X16 ALSO ,MIKE