Tailgate Locks - where and what

[kburati]

Has anyone put a locking tailgate handle on their truck yet? Is it hard to do? I'm looking at a power tailgate lock I found on www.realtruck.com for $65. I've got a locking bed cover now but still can't secure anything until I can lock the gate.

What brands have you used and where did you get them?

[mdrag]

kburati,

I'm using a Pop-n-Lock, but with the Roll-n-Lock retractable cover installed the tailgate lock is not really needed. I've heard a few comments that the Pop-n-Locks are easy to break into...

No experience with the electic tailgate locks...Jason at www.jpcustoms.com offers a replacement tailgate lock that is styled like the OEM handle, but I've not tried it or read any comments on it...

[Smorey]

Just installed a lock from jpcustoms. 42.00? (Someone tried to swipe my tailgate) Lock seems well made. comes with a one way thread screw if needed. Installs in 5 minutes. I have the foldacover....all secure now.

[battmain]

My local Pep Boys has the Bully lock for $19.95. They had one of each for the big three pickup trucks. I haven't put it on yet, but it looks like it would fit without any problems. Cablelas had a sale recently for the electric lock and I think it was much lower than the price you listed.

www.cabelas.com

Brian

[Hound]

I put the electronic tailgate lock from Pace Edwards in my truck. Getting it set up in the tailgate was a piece of cake. Getting the wiring through the big rubber plug that the rest of the wiring uses to come into the cab was a bit of a bear. It works GREAT though!

Had the Bully and the Pop-N-Lock on a 99 Silverado. I like the electronic one a lot better.

[ 04-11-2002: Message edited by: Hound ]</p>

[SoCalDMAX]

I've got the $65 Pace Edwards power tailgate lock, just like Hound said, easy to install, running the wires was the hard part. When I hit the remote to lock the doors, I can hear the tailgate solenoid from the rear engage. (Nice if I'm a distance from the truck at the time.)

The Cabelas item is the pop-n-lock, just a key lock, not power.

Regards, Steve

[RichBailey]

I just finished installing the electric tailgate lock from PopNLock. Install was reasonably easy, however the solenoid is mounted on a long bracket which vibrates back and forth when you close the tailgate. So I set a nutsert on the bracket and drilled a hole on the inside of the tailgate and put a 1/4-20 screw into the bracket. This totally solved the problem. PopNLock should offer the same thing, but it would involve drilling the tailgate which some people are probably not willing to do.

I also put on the tailgate handle and bucket from a Sierra C3, which is painted my body color. Looks much better than the black plastic.

Finally, installed a stainless steel full tailgate cover from Putco. Removed the cheap black plastic original. Under the plastic original are four holes which are used on the Chevy. I put a 1/4-20 nutsert in each hole, match drilled the s.s. cap, and put polished buttonhead screw in from the outside. Looks great and now the tailgate top cover is supported from both sides.

[DMAX4LIFE]

Sounds like a clean installation. Any pics?

[pushpole]

Installed the Powergate from Pace-Edwards. I would call it a power block NOT lock. The internals of our tailgate latch are accessible in less than 5 seconds by removing the latch handle trim piece. Just grab it pull down to clear the plastic tabs and swing it out. Try it you'll see what I mean. The Powergate will only keep casual pranksters and those looking for an easy score from getting into the bed. In the meantime the goodstuff stays in the cab. I do like the electric "blocking" feature and am looking for a true locking mechanism for when I have real valuables in the bed. I wired mine to the rear door door locks by drilling a small hole under the plastic step pad. Make sure you drill far enough inboard to clear the sheet metal divider beneath. My first hole just cleared it! I have a couple others for the Kodiak automatic retracting steps. I primed the bare metal exposed from drilling and installed a rubber donut chafe protector. I pulled the vertical trim away from between the doors and tapped into the appropriate wires. The wires were not solid but stripped with the primary color being correct. I think this is easier than the factory instructions, which have you tap in way up front. Sorry if I got carried away in the details smile.gif

[ 04-14-2002: Message edited by: pushpole ]</p>

[Smorey]

And it didn't even come with a tube of preperation H. Guess I should shop around better.

[mattb5150]

Rich Bailey,

What is a nutsert? I have the new Sierra Denali handle and bezel and the Pop n Lock ready to install and like your decsricption, I'd like to do it right. Do you have any pictures of your install?

Thanks,
Matt B.

[Kennedy]

What pshpole said!

I have the PE gizmo mounted, but never bothered wiring it. I have a lock here to try. I believe it is the Bully Lock, but I forget.

A nutsert is basically an expanding T-nut almost like a pop rivet. You drill the hole to the proper size, push it through, and the tool basically pulls the nut itself much like the nail on a pop rivet until the inside expands to fill the hole. Then you withdraw the screw and have a threaded insert!

[RichBailey]

Dear Matt B,
First of all, you can install the electric tailgate lock per the instructions and it will function properly. This is initially what I did. However, I also noticed that the assembly made a terrible rattling sound whenever the tailgate was closed. This was due to the design where the assembly is secured at one end and the other end has a heavy solenoid at the end of a long flat bar.

I looked over the assembly carefully and noticed an area toward the unsecured end of the flat bar where a nutsert could be installed. So I did the following:

1. Measured the distance over from the mounting holes to the proposed nutsert on the flat bar.
2. Took that measurement and located it on the inside of the tailgate.
3. Drilled a 5/16 hole at that location.
4. Mounted the locking assembly.
5. Marked the bar of the locking assembly with a drill inserted through the previously drilled hole in the tailgate.
6.Marked the drill so the distance from the inside of the tailgate to the bar could be measured.
7. Removed the lock assembly.
8. Drilled the bar with the appropriate sized hole for a 1/4-20 nutsert at the mark made previously.
9. Installed 1/4-20 nutsert.
10. Cut a piece of 1/2 copper pipe to the length measured in step 6.
11. Reinstalled lock assembly with 1/2 copper pipe spacer hotmelt glued over the nutsert.
12. Installed 1/4-20x2" ss machine screw through hole in tailgate and into nutsert.
13. Tightened securely and tested for correct operation.
14. Uninstalled machine screw, coated with locktite and reinstalled.

No more rattles.

[permx11]

Dont bother with those $19.99 Pep Boys type locks, they are cheap and flimsy. I tried one and tood a while to get it to line up with the bezel then it really didnt lock it very tight, and all you had to do was pop the bezel back off and bend it out of the way and steal the tailgate. My snugtop snuglid now keeps my tailgate locked.