Sureset Air Compressor

[bamabadboy]

DmaxMaverick. I mounted the hardware. Where do I run the wires through the firewall.

[DmaxMaverick]

Unless AirLift has changed their harness, it won't reach if you run through the firewall. You'll have to run it under the rocker trim, and through the floor near the rear of the front seat. When you pull the trim panel on the rocker, you'll see an indent in the sheet metal that is ideal for this. You can either go through at the indent, or just after it, like I did. There's plenty of room to run the harness entirely under the trim panels in the channels. Remove the rocker trim and the trim panel forward of it, where the hood release is.

Here's a pic. The harness is passed through the sheet metal with a grommet. The hole needs to be about 1" dia. to get the connectors through, and have room for a grommet (or other suitable chafe protection or weather seal). An electrical box knock-out die could be used to make the hole, but I used a hole saw.

http://image60.webshots.com/60/9/81/15/539298115oOzsPR_ph.jpg

If for any reason you can't view the image here, click on "truck stuff pic's" in my sig. and select the "misc" album.

[ 01-08-2006, 09:44 AM: Message edited by: DmaxMaverick ]

[bamabadboy]

Thanks DmaxMaverick. How did you run the battery wire through the firewall?

[DmaxMaverick]

I installed the fuse holder pig-tail at the "jump start" post, and ran the wire (actually more than one for other accessories) to the large bulkhead pass-through on the firewall, and under the dash. The boot (grommet) is about 3" dia, below and outboard of the brake booster, with an OEM wire bundle of about 3/4" dia. passing through it. You can run your wires along side the OEM bundle, or pierce another hole into the rubber (a puncture, not a cut that can tear). The boot is double wall, meaning it has an outside and inside piece. You could remove the boot, but it's a PITA to get it reseated (did that on another truck).

If you plan other mods requiring a firewall pass-through, now would be a good time to run all of them. If you plan on a mechanical boost gage, 1/8" tubing will have to be included, as well as a pyro harness, if needed. It isn't any fun running the wires through, so better to do it all at once. If you are planning gages in the future, you don't have to purchase the whole packages, just the tubing and pyro harness (pyro harness is special, not standard--be sure to get it long enough, depending where you will mount the gage/amplifier). It may also be a good idea to run a couple extra 12ga and 14ga wires for future use. You can tap switched power under the dash, but all batt+ leads should be done this way to avoid using the OEM wires, which can be inferior. Be sure to give yourself enough length between the batt+ post and the firewall so you can tie everything out of the way. You can parallel another harness to get from point A to B.

Once you get all your leads pulled, clean them up real nice with some split conduit tubing and zip-tie everything up for a clean install, inside and out.