Cracked Cylinder wall help!

[Ron Robinson]

Greetings,
I have a 93 6.5TD that has two cylinder walls that are cracked. Can these be re-sleeved and if so what are the details/costs involved?

My other option is that I have a complete 6.2 with casting number 14022660 and date stamp of 9-7-82, can I use the short block from this engine with the heads, intake, turbo, etc. from my 6.5?

[More Power]

Welcome to the BB!

Are the cracks related to what people see when a main web crack progresses into a cylinder? Or, are the cracks radial or lateral (around the cylinder or in-line with the bore)?

Yes, these engines can be successfully sleeved, but the successful ones I know of were dry - meaning there was no entry into the water jacket.

The 1982 block.... Yes, it can be made to work in your application, but I would want to use the 6.5 heads, due to a more horizontal injector angle used in the early 6.2 heads. This complicates fit with the turbo. Also, you'll need to account for the lower temperature limit imposed on the 6.2L pistons (1100 degree EGT max, where the 6.5 has a 1250 degree max).

Jim

[Ron Robinson]

The cracks are radial on the two rear cylinders behind the turbo (6+8?) , I believe they were caused by overheating of the engine. There are no cracks evedent in the main web area.

I purchased rebuilt heads and while replacing them I noticed the cracks.

Also for FYI the engine is a bear to start when cold, blows tuns of white smoke until it warms up and the cooling system presurizes shortly after starting.

[More Power]

That block is toast.... I've only heard of a couple engines that developed radial cracks. You may be right about it being overheating related. Sleeves wouldn't fix it cuz the deck will float some without the structural support of the cylinder casting.

I've corresponded with a couple others recently who used a 6.2 to replace their toasted 6.5. Would work fine for a daily driver that isn't pushed to the extreme. In fact, you'll not likely notice the difference - all other factors being equal.

I'd check the timing chain slack for any used engine before installing it, as well as main web cracks.

Good luck,

Jim

[Ron Robinson]

Thanks for the advice Jim, I'll be taking the 6.2 block to the machine shop next week.

There will probably be more questions here as I go.

Ron

[arveetek]

The only difference between you 6.2L block and 6.5L block would be the smaller bore, oil feed tap for the turbo, and the two-piece rear main seal vs. one-piece seal. Otherwise, they're pretty much identical. I personally believe that a 6.5L is just a bored-out 6.2L, which is why the 6.5L's have a bigger tendency to crack the cylinder walls.

If you want 'more power' out of your diesel, go ahead and use the 6.2L block and you can still make a strong runner out of it. My '82 red block 6.2L has been bored .040" over, I installed Diesel Depot custom made ceramic-coated pistons that also lowered the compression a little, I installed DSG's timing gear drive and stud girdle, and all the other regular goodies you'd use during an engine build up.

My 6.2L (actually a 6.35L) performs better than a stock 6.5L, and I believe it will last longer than a hopped-up 6.5L because of the thicker cylinder walls.

Even if you go back with a stock 6.2L short block, I think you'll be happy with the results.

I think the only issue you'll have with the 6.2L block will be finding a pressurized oil source for the turbo. You'll have to use a longer feed line and go across the engine to an unused oil port by the oil cooler lines, or tee into the oil pressure switch location.

Casey

[rjschoolcraft]

I would tee off the oil pressure sender. The port by the oil cooler lines is unfiltered, uncooled oil.

[78Chev]

Is it possible to drill and tap a hole on the front of an 82 block (where it is located on a 6.5 block) to make an oil port for the turbo?
Randy

[arveetek]

Originally posted by ronniejoe:
I would tee off the oil pressure sender. The port by the oil cooler lines is unfiltered, uncooled oil. I didn't think about that. I used that port by the cooler lines because that's what the Banks instructions said to do, and it was easier to get to than the OPS. I also thought that it might provide oil pressure just a tad quicker than from the OPS location, but I was just guessing about that. Hmmm.....my turbo seems to be fine after running it pretty hard for two years now, and it was used to start with....

Casey

[mhagie]

If you need an oil source look at my pics, you just use a fuel block, either two or three ports fed from original OPS port, mount it on firewall and you are good to go.
Merle