High Idle hookup to remote start question

[chuntag95]

Okay, I finally go the high idle working after having the stealer reprogram the ECU. Now I want to hook up to the remote start (I know, never happy). :rolleyes: If I hook up the line to the ECU pin 71 to the parking lights circuit from the alarm/remote start, I will power the high idle during remote start and be able to use a relay to hit the set button on the cruise control to get to the high idle setting.
Now, the problem is, if I don't isolate the ECU pin 71 from the parking lights, then it will be on whenever the lights are on and that is bad. The parking lights circuit is up to 10 amps, so a 1 amp diode will not cut it assuming max load. As I see it, I have to isolate the parking lights from back feeding power to the alarm and the ECU side of the circuit. Then when the alarm is powered up, it will power both the ECU and the parking lights, but the lights being on will not send power back through a diode to power the ECU in normal conditions.
Can I run 3-4 3 amp diodes in parallel between the parking lights and the alarm/ECU connection and be safe? I am hooked to the lights at the BCM, and it is a really small wire, so I think it is actually the relay for the parking lights. If that is the case, a 1 amp diode will be fine as the relay "should" only draw 0.2 amps or so. Can anyone confirm the diodes in parallel or the relay from the BCM? I know this can be done without using 45 relays to get there.
Does anyone know what the wire color is for the heated seats? I'd like to be able to turn those on too. :D
Thanks,

[imported_]

Cris,

I am trying to do the exact same thing. I have removed the connection from the park lights/ecm wire to the park lights in the truck.
everything works. I hit the remote start, truck starts without the park lights on, I hit the aux button on the remote twice (this really ticks me off) on presto high idle.

Two problems

The first, when I hit the door lock/unlock switch it pulses the "park lights" from the remote starter and shuts down the high idle.

The second, read what I posted on another thread

I am going to try and tie in with a different lead from the remote start. Perhaps the factory alarm disable to take the park lights right out of the equation and solve my two dislikes with what I have now.

If I can't find another constant source from the remote start I am going to try the 3 amp diode connected to the park lights.

hope this helps

quoted from prior post

I have installed a remote starter and I tried to hook up the high idle in conjunction with the park lights and the aux button and ran into problems.

I switched the - pulse from the module to a + pulse with the use of a relay.

pin 86 + switch with ign
pin 87 + switch with ign
pin 85 - input pulsed from module
pin 30 + out pusled to dark blue on cruise control

I did not use a diode with the relay because it is normally open and one should not be needed.

I then took the park light wire from the module, attached it to the cold side (wire to ECM) of my high idle swith. I then ran a line from the park light wire from the BCM on the truck, inserted a diode, and conected that to the park light/ECM wire from the module.

I started a FIRE!!!!

The diode burned hot enough to melt the solder I used to attach it to the other wires with. Was the diode to small or did I screw up?

My thought was that the park light output from the module would turn on the trucks lights and give the ECM a + signal for the high idle. When the remote starter is disabled (while driving or not engaged) and the park lights are turned on, the diode was supposed to "block" the + signal from the park light wire at the BCM from entering the ECM wire or the park light wire on the module.

I have disconnected the trucks park lights from the equation. I am only using the modules park light wire connected to the ECM/cold side of high idle switch. Everything works great.

How do I get my park lights back?

cheers
brad

After thinking about it I think this only happened after the "truck" turned on the automatic park lights and head lights? Could this have screwed things up? Getting a + signal from both sides? What do I do about it?

[dmaxster]

well this is what I did....I have a remote starter on mine also...I am the one who came up with this.....so here it is...I can't seem to find the post on it so I will do it all over from the start.......
I ran a wire from the remote starter off the parking lites and inserted a diode only off the tap wire from the parking lites from the remote starter to the load side of the High Idle switch....this is very important to prevent the parking lites coming on when you turn the high idle on.....but from the remote starter to turn the lights on when running I believe I ran a relay to Isolate the parking lites from the remote starter.....this is to prevent the parking lites when on with out remote function to turning on the high idle....I used a 1A diode from Radio Shack for like about a buck....nothing fancy but it works...any q's mail me madenterprises@itol.com
dmaxster


Well guys I don't know really how to start this off because I don't know how you guys are with electrical but I am going to assume you know some but will post everything.....I would post pics but I am unable to because I don't have a digital camera....Sorry....First you have to gain access to the under dash area to do so you will have to pull of the IP dash trim....then you will have to remove the underdash access panel....you need to remove the two 7mm screws and the 10mm screw that holds the parking brake release lever....Then you will have to pull off the underdash panel this just simply pulls off some harder than others depending upon which plant they were made in....once you have taken this off you will need to remove the steering columb access shroud this is metal and is held on by 4 10mm nuts....simply just remove them and they will fall off...then follow the ignition wires out of the steering columb and find out where they plug in....you will looking for 16ga wires....I believe if I remember correctly they are black, green, yellow, tan, white, dark blue.....there maybe some more but the only one you are concerned with is the dark blue...This wire receives a 12v positive pulse...it is only a momentary pulse it does not receive a 12v pos all the time....just momentarily.....now depending on which brand remote starter you have it may give a pos pulse out or it may give a neg ground output out....however you will have revert to your owners manuals to check this.....now if your remote puts out a 12v pos. pulse for the trunk option you will have this job very easy. just simlely hook the wire right from the remote stater right to the dark blue wire..However if you have a remote starter that puts a neg pulse you will have to add a relay....you need to provide a normally open relay. you will need to hook pin number 85 to 12v pos. and pin number 30 to 12v pos. you are going to hook a wire from pin 87 to the dark blue wire as the set button....you are going to hook your remote starter wire for the trunk option and you will have to find out what wire this is in your owners manual to pin 86...there is power for all this if you need it right there for the cruise control and you may use this for that option if you wish to....now when you hook this up you will also need to have your remote starter hooked up to the high Idle already....I did this by hooking up my parking lites to this on the load side of your switch of course..you will however need to diode isolate this other wise you will get a back feed when you turn your parking lites on and you will get poor driveability IF YOU DO NOT DO THIS. if you don't hook up your parking lites to your high idle through the remote starter all your work up to this point will be for nothing and non of this stuff will be useful....however if you manage to get this done you will like your new toy!!!! what happens is you start your truck with the remote starter and when your parking lites come on from your remote starter and you pop your trunk on new HD then the idle will go upto the 1200 rpm or what ever you have this programmed for...

here is what I have found that we all have talked about before so I hope this answers some questions.......dmaxster.....
:cool: :cool:


if it would help I can pull mine apart to se exactly what I did to get mine to work.... I am just going off of memory.....THanks....

[dmaxster]

Big Blue would you like to email me....I have some other questions to ask about what you are doing...and need input....madenterprises@itol.com....thanks Dave

[imported_]

dmaxster,

you have mail,

cheers
brad

[chuntag95]

Brad,
Quote:
After thinking about it I think this only happened after the "truck" turned on the automatic park lights and head lights? Could this have screwed things up? Getting a + signal from both sides? What do I do about it?"

The plus from both sides should not be a problem, in theory. I think your diode was too small, which is what I am worried about as well. I have 4 3 amp diodes that in parallel will take 12 amps total, in theory. Where are you hooked into your lights? At the switch or at the BCM (body control module) under the dash? If you are hooked up at the light switch, you might want to hook up at the BCM, which I think controls the relay for the lights, not the lights themselves. The wire is too small to carry the current needed to run the lights, but it might still pull more than 1 amp. I think Dmaxster was able to run a 1 amp diode without a fire by using a relay to power the lights, assuming my theory is correct.

Quote:
"The first, when I hit the door lock/unlock switch it pulses the "park lights" from the remote starter and shuts down the high idle."

I guess when the lights go off, it removes the voltage to the pin in the ECU and that shuts it off. If you are about to get in the truck i.e. unlock, that should not be too much of a problem. The only way I can think around it would be to have a latching circuit that once powered, doesn't shut off until a second manual switch kills power to the latching circuit and releases the voltage on the ECU.

Quote:
"I then took the park light wire from the module, attached it to the cold side (wire to ECM) of my high idle swith. I then ran a line from the park light wire from the BCM on the truck, inserted a diode, and conected that to the park light/ECM wire from the module."

By module, do you mean the alarm/remote start module? I am assuming the remote start, so your current draw was more than an amp and poof. If I understand correctly, then we both need larger diodes or multiple diodes. The other option would be to run a relay off of the park light line from the alarm and have an alternate power source for the parking lights. That would limit the current to the 0.2 amps for sure and the 1 amp doide would be okay.

I cannot see anything wrong with the pulse to the cruise.

I might try and run my lights through my meter and see how many amps it draws. I have a 10 amp max on the meter, but there is a 10 amp fuse in the line and it hasn't popped, so I should be safe. Then I would know how many or what size diode we need.

I don't know about the unlock/lock problem, but if you want, I can research how to do it. There is another web site http://www.the12volt.com that is really good for details like this. It has drawings and how sections.

Hope this helps, at least a little.
:(

[chuntag95]

Dmaxster, BUDDY! Where you been! I was writing war and peace while you and Brad were talking.

I think I got it now. You need to isolate the power from the high idle switch to the parking lights to keep from pulling a hugh load to light them AND the parking light from the high idle switch to keep it from turning on at night when the lights are on.
You use a diode to block the power to the lights from the high idle switch and a relay to block the power from the lights to the high idle switch. The alarm will power both the high idle switch and the parking lights via relay actuation.

Did I get it?

[dmaxster]

chuntag95 (Chris)

yes I did use a relay....I had to have....because I am using a 1A diode......I also used a relay to Isolate the remote starter parking lites from the truck parking lites to eliminate the Back Feed that would take place....I also did hook up at the head light switch, not the BCM .....I found it was easier to do it this way rather than at the BCM to eliminate the back feed....you also need the diode in there to eliminate the parking lites coming on if you turn the high idle swich on.....during the day when just idling without the remote starter......it maybe a good reminder if you want to have it hooked up that way....but I preferred not to....that's all.....dmaxster....

[dmaxster]

you maybe beable to use the alarm wire but this becomes inactive when running remotely....so it probably won't work.....not saying it definately won't but it's something you could try....

[chuntag95]

My switch has a bright red led to tell me it's on and I actually hooked up to just the headlights and not the parking lights. I couldn't stand the chime going off when I unlocked the truck. The headlights only doesn't sound the chime. If I use a diode to keep the high idle switch supply from powering the parking lights, I shouldn't have a daytime problem. The relay to control the headlights, like you said, keeps it from back feeding into the high idle circuit. I guess you could do it with diodes, but I think the relay is a better option.

Thanks a bunch. :D

[chuntag95]

Dmaxster,

Quote:
"you maybe beable to use the alarm wire but this becomes inactive when running remotely...."

You lost me. Use the alarm wire for what? I have a separate power source for the high idle switch that is not part of the alarm for the key on operation. Was that it? :confused:

[dmaxster]

The alarm will power both the high idle switch and the parking lights via relay actuation.

what you said........

and I am saying....that even if it is running a relay.....it's still not active when the remote starter is running cuz you have to diarm alarm when starting to prevent it from going off.....if YOU have not done this and haven't had problems with the alarm going off then you're a luckier man than me......that is all I am saying...it may work, I am not sure Cus I have to have mine disarm on remote starting....

[AKDmax]

I know this is a touchy subject for you. Wouldn't it be easier just to put a jacket and boots on and walk out to the truck and kick the high idle on? It's not that cold in WI. I know, it's the principle now.

[imported_]

Chris, Dmaxter

Man I gotta learn to type with more then two fingers!!!

I tapped into the prklts at the BCM under the dash, I think adding a relay with a 3amp diode would solve the problem.

I am in and out of my truck lots with work and often leave it on high idle but need the security of locking the doors. The push twice on the aux button is just a PITA.

Does your remote start/alarm activate the factory system? Mine doesn't. Or I didn't connect it that way. Should I?

If I don't rearm the factory alarm I have an extra (-) constant out put that I am going to use for the high idle.

cheer

brad

[dmaxster]

any baby can go out to the truck and turn a meisly little sw on....it's more confusing this way....... :D :D :D :D

[imported_]

AKdmax,

Them fightn words!! :D

The girlfriend mentioned the same thing, I told her I'd pay her a dollar for every time she went out in the morning to start the truck. I think she lasted two mornings!! ;)

Go figure

cheers
brad

[dmaxster]

doesn't your remote start automatically disarm as soon as you push the start button...most do....because if you have the remote hooked to the alarm it has to disarm before starting otherwise it's going to set the alarm off....

the only other thing you coud do..is use the ignition 3 that most remote starts have...then it would be active whenever it's running.....

[AKDmax]

I had to throw that out there!! :D One problem that I've been having with the high idle: When it's above 30 degrees with the truck plugged in (freeze plug, oil and tranny pan heaters, and 2 battery heaters) the truck throws a p181 code if I kick the high idle on. Any temp below 30 and it's fine. Good luck on the setup. I miss the remote start that was on my Z71. Don't miss the truck though... ;)

[dmaxster]

AK

what kind of remote did you have....?

dmaxster

[imported_]

I am so confused :(

I just went out and checked the truck, the remote start/alarm does not arm the factory alarm. It does disable it for start up though. If I press the OEM lock and the remote lock my LED will flash and the security light on the dash will flash. When I start the truck, the security ligh goes out, and the LED stays on. If I turn the truck off with the remote, the security lite stays off. The instructions I got from the place of purchase are different then those of Dmaxters. I think the install shop does as little as possible to make the truck come on, and are not worried about factory options.

I will work on this on the weekend.

Thanks Dave and Chris, I'll keep you posted

cheers
brad

[dmaxster]

see what happens is this....these things are so complicated.....that I found the least you have to do is the better.....so all I do is disarm the factory alarm....I don't arm it..even though you can.....the less the customer has to remember is less call backs for the installer....that is all.....it's not that it is that hard just easier for everyone.....here is the info....



Function
DTI Color Vehicle Color Location
Start:
Yellow YELLOW (18 AWG) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS *
Ignition #1:
Blue PINK (16 AWG) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition #2:
Green WHITE (18 AWG) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS(ECM)
Ignition #3:
Wht/Blk N/A
Accessory:
White ORANGE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS (HEAT/AC)
Brake Light:
Orange WHITE (+) AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
Tach Signal:
Green VIOLET/WHITE AT PLUG ABOVE VALVE COVER ON DR. SIDE
Parking Lights:
Yellow BROWN (+) 12 PIN PLUG IN FUSE PANEL OR AT SWTICH
Headlights:
Yellow YELLOW (+) AT HEALIGHT SWITCH
OEM Alarm Disarm:
Brn/Wht GREEN IN FLAT CONNECTOR IN DR. KICK PANEL
Diesel Glow Plug:
Red/Black N/A
Clutch Bypass Wire:
n/a

NOTES: * This Vehicle Is Equipped With GM's PASSLOCK II Anti-Theft System; See Note #113.




Alarm and Keyless Entry Wiring Colors




Function
DTI Color Vehicle Color Location
Constant +12 Volts:
Red RED (2)
IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Starter Kill:
Vlt or Wht YELLOW (18 AWG)
IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS *
Ignition +12 Volts:
Orange PINK (16 AWG)
IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Dome Lights/Superv:
Brown WHITE
AT PLUG IN CONVIENENCE CENTER **

OEM Horn:
Blue BLACK (-)
STEERING COLUMN HARNESS

Power Lock:
Wht/Red LT. BLUE
12 PIN PLUG AT FUSE PANEL ON DR. SIDE

Power Unlock:
Yel/Red WHITE
DRIVER'S KICK PANEL IN BODY CAVITY ***

Trunk Release:
Grn/Wht N/A


Alarm Input Wire:
R/W or Gy/Bk WHITE
AT PLUG IN CONVIENENCE CENTER **

NOTES: ** Convenience Center Is Locate Under Driver's Dash Near Fire Wall (Listen for dome light relay). *** See Note #202 - Positive Pulse Door Lock Diagram.




hope this may help.....or maybe confuse more.....dmaxster

[dmaxster]

it didn't c and P very well so it gives the remote starter color and then right away it gives the vehicle color....only pay attention to the second color......

dmaxster...

[chuntag95]

Okay, I'll try and cover all of this, but it will be long.

AKDmax,
I am currently going out and turning on the high idle, but the whole point of the remote start was to not go outside. The wife's truck has one too, so I save a trip if I get this working. I even had to fix hers because the professional installer didn't power the Heat/AC circuit, so neither would come on when the remote start was activated. Besides, I'm an engineer and this has become presonal. smile.gif

Dmaxster,
I have a crimestopper alarm and it has a configuration where the trunk pop (i.e. high idle) does not disarm the alarm. The remote start does not set off the alarm as it is one integrated unit. It actually locks the doors if they are unlocked during remote start. The only thing missing is a pulse on shutdown.

Big Blue,
There are only 2 ways to activate the factory alarm. 1. Use the factory remote. Somehow the remote tells the truck the door was opened an allows the factory system to arm. 2. Lock the door with the switch on the door with the door open. From everything I found out, no one has been able to get the factory alarm to rearm other than these two ways and I have been on an installers forum trying to figure it out. I took my remote apart and soldered 2 wires into the lock circuit. I then hooked those to a normally open relay and have the relay actuate when the lock button on my alarm is pressed. It works just like pressing the factory remote, but it ain't pretty. Now, if your alarm has a pulse after shutdown, you can hook it up to this same relay to hit the factory lock when the truck shuts down. My alarm doesn't have this wire, so I have to remember to rearm/relock. :(

I actually ran a total of 4 ingition sources that power on remote start. I have the "automatic" AC, so I powered that circuit or it won't control. I can use any of these to run a relay that powers the high idle and keep the parking lights out of the whole mess. Then I have to install the second relay for the set on the cruise hooked to the trunk pop. The third relay is the hold of the trunk pop to turn on the heated seats. :D tongue.gif I hate cold weather. I'll work on it this weekend and hopefully finish this project.

[imported_]

Still a little confused,

From Dmaxter:
so all I do is disarm the factory alarm....I don't arm it..even though you can.....the less the customer has to remember is less call backs for the installer....that is all.....it's not that it is that hard

From Chris:
There are only 2 ways to activate the factory alarm. 1. Use the factory remote. Somehow the remote tells the truck the door was opened an allows the factory system to arm. 2. Lock the door with the switch on the door with the door open. From everything I found out, no one has been able to get the factory alarm to rearm other than these two ways

So can I arm the factory alarm?

My remtote starter has a rearm output on shut down, if I connect this to the Alarm Input Wire: R/W or Gy/Bk WHITE AT PLUG IN CONVIENENCE CENTER will this rearm the factory alarm. What is the factory input wire.

My factory remote will arm the system without the door input, same thing with the lock switch. If I leave the window down and reach in for the lock switch the factory system will arm.

brad

[ 11-08-2002: Message edited by: Big Blue ]</p>

[chuntag95]

"So can I arm the factory alarm?"

Yes - see below.

"My remtote starter has a rearm output on shut down, if I connect this to the Alarm Input Wire: R/W or Gy/Bk WHITE AT PLUG IN CONVIENENCE CENTER will this rearm the factory alarm. What is the factory input wire."

You can try it, but my understanding is that pulsing that wire does not work. I have not tried it because I don't have the ability on my alarm. Just temp it up and test it.

"My factory remote will arm the system without the door input, same thing with the lock switch. If I leave the window down and reach in for the lock switch the factory system will arm."

Correct on both counts. If you want to arm the factory alarm, use the remote. You can wire in a relay to actuate the remote.
30 - One side of lock on remote
87 - Other side of lock on remote
85 - Ground if positive pulse for door lock or Constant 12V if negative.
86 - Lock output from alarm system.
You can diode isolate the lock output from the alarm and add the pulse on shutdown with a diode to 86. Effectively, you will use the factory remote whenever the alarm is armed or you shutdown the remote start.

Does this make it clear as mud? :confused:

[imported_]

OK,

I am going to try the remote starters rearm to the trucks factory alarm input wire. Hope this works but sounds to easy

If I understand correctly, you are hard mounting the factory key fob remote under the dash using the relay to activate the lock/unlock feature on the remote? You wouldn't have to hook into the trucks power locks this way. A little goofy but it would work. or am I totally off base

cheers
brad

[ 11-08-2002: Message edited by: Big Blue ]</p>

[chuntag95]

Brad,

You got it. I have one of the factory remotes under the dash. It has 2 wires soldered to either side of the lock (only) pad. Those are connected to the relay that is actuated by the lock signal from the alarm. I do have it hard wired to the unlock, so if the battery ever goes dead, the alarm will still unlock it and let me in the truck. I have the factory disarm wire hooked up too.

If I had the pulse when shutdown, I would try the way you are talking about for sure. It would also allow me to turn off the RAP feature. For now, if for some reason I shut the truck back off, my radio and cell stay on for 20 minutes. :( Glad I got 2 large batteries.

Only you know it's goofy as very few people stick their heads up your dash :D :eek: tongue.gif (Sorry, I couldn't let that one get away.)

[ 11-08-2002: Message edited by: chuntag95 (Chris) ]</p>

[imported_]

Right on :D

Looks like I am going to have another busy weekend. I found your thread on the 12 volt page and it answered alot of question.

thanks for all your help.

Does your remoter starter lock/unlock button pulse every time you push it. Mine doesn't. It seems to remember what the last input was and only allows me to pulse for the apposite. I don't have the push unlock button twice to unlock all the doors. It unlocks all doors with one push of the starters unlock button. I like GM's system better.

[chuntag95]

I did set mine up orginally to have the 2 stage unlock, but it took 2-3 seconds for it to hit it the second time. I would push the unlock 3, 4 or 5 times before it would finally open the rest of the doors. GM's was much faster and never a problem. I went back in and set it up to unlock them all at once. My truck is used for the family, so I only am alone going to and from work. As far as the multiple pulses for the lock, because mine is 2 way and keeps the last response from the truck, I have gotten in the habit of just looking at the remote. I don't think it does more than one for lock and you can only hit unlock twice and it stops. Darn things are getting smarter than me. I can verify for sure if it's important.

[chuntag95]

I do not get the horn honk and the factory alarm is arming with one pulse. You should be in good shape. I think the horn honk is just is say "yes, you locked me dummy". You can also use it to locate the vehicle or scare the crap out of someone walking by :D :eek:

[imported_]

The reason I ask is because it was my understanding that I needed to hit the factory lock button on the remote twice to get the horn honk and fully arm the system. Is it fully armed after one pulse from the factory remotes? If so then not a problem, otherwise I am back to squaere one with my remote starter.

[chuntag95]

Deja View, the feeling I seen that post before. :D tongue.gif :rolleyes:

[dmaxster]

guys the arm wire is white........LIke I said it didn't C and P right....however if you give your email I can mail the page I have on the silverado's however the HD's are different on somethings...but for the most part are the same......

[dmaxster]

OK guys....here is what my understanding is on most models....they're not all the same so correct me if I am wrong......

when you unlock your doors...the vehicle alarm is armed...it will disarm it before unlocking the doors......if you have the doors locked and start the vehicle it will disarm the alarm....now maybe it will rearm it after the vehicle is running....I don't know ....they very from model to model..so that is why I am saying it may not work....you may have to rearm it.....I don't know but something that would have to be checked out.....dmaxster.

[imported_]

chris,

who you calling a dummy????? tongue.gif :D

[chuntag95]

Brad,

I refer to the dummy typing on the keyboard. :D My memory is so short, I have sneezes that are longer. :eek:

Dmaxster,
I don't have an arm after shut down. I just want the factory alarm to arm when I lock the doors with the aftermarket. My "goofy" remote trick has that working. I think that the aftermarket really does enough, but why only have one alarm on when you can have two! :D

[ 11-08-2002: Message edited by: chuntag95 (Chris) ]</p>

[chuntag95]

Big Blue and Dmaxster,
Well, I got the high idle working with the remote. I couldn't get the remote to control the heated seats. The switch is not a simple push button like the diagram shows. If I wanted to get that going, I would have to solder a wire to the little PC board and run the wire through the door. I decided, it just wasn't that important. So I think the dash can stay together for a while now.

Big Blue, let me know if you got yours working.

[imported_]

hey chris,

Yup, it is working. I used the third ign wire on the remote starter to activate the high idle and my Aux wire to ramp up the RPM's. I have to hit it twice just like the cruise control, which sucks. I now have no issues with the park lights flashing with lock/unlock effecting the high idle.

I tried the the "hit the unlock button twice" option, and it sucks compared to GM's system. I am back to the single unlock button for all doors.

I still haven't figured out the factory alarm, I can get the light to come on after shut down with the rearm output on my remote but I can't get the alarm to go into panic mode. No lights flashing or horn honking.

I got fed up with it today and worked on the boat I am building :D I'll give it another go tommorow. I also need to figure out the RAP shutdown and the domelight supervision.

Thanks for all your help on these issues. I love this sight!!!!

[ 11-10-2002: Message edited by: Big Blue ]</p>

[chuntag95]

Brad,

Glad to here it's working. For the dome light, I hooked into the line from the dimmer on the switch. You have to use the pulse after shutdown to shut down the rap. I think you can pulse the door open line that you are hooked into already. I wish I had a pulse after shutdown, but considering the number of times I actually shut down without getting in the truck, I am not going to sweat the small stuff.