it eats anti-freeze

[ron engele]

I would like to know if anyone has a simular experience:

I have a 95 Suburban (6.5 turbo), and recently up-graded to the 97 water pump and I'm experiencing over heating problems.

This only happens out on the road, not at an idle, and seems to only happen when I've got my foot into it, or pulling. Once the temp starts to go up, (210 deg), it starts to eat anti-freeze.

I've checked all the raditor hoses, and can't find any leaks. I've checked all the hose clamps and they are all new. Even when it gets hot, I have not seen any drips or evidence of leaks.

I tried to use a 13 lbs radiator cap, (down from 16 lbs), and that seemed to keep the motor cooler. But, I can't get over 2100 RPMS with out this thing getting warmed up.

I've go no idea why this thing gets warm, and where the anti-freeze could be going...

I guess it would be important to know how much anti-freeze it uses: it used about 4 gallons over 1500 miles, (Tenn to Florida).


Any ideas ?

Ron Engele
ke4own@yahoo.com

Recent up-grades:

1. Water Pump (97)
2. 90 HP Power Chip
3. K & N Air Intake
4. 3.5" exhaust
5. Gear Vendors (transmission)
6. Transmission Cooler (180 deg electric)

[mhagie]

When you are on the road have someone with you look back in mirror at the exhaust when you pull it hard or basically have your foot in it, I believe you will observe white smoke indicating it is eating antifreeze through combustion.
Likely scenario, head gasket :(
If every thing else is dry that only leaves the tail pipe as where it exits.
Merle

[john8662]

I guess it's also possible that while the install of the 97 cooling mods that the gasket that mounts to the waterpump could have slipped and is now blocking the flow into the block. The same can be said for gobs of silicone.

I noticed you're chipped, etc. but do you have GAUGES? If no, they're a must.

As mentioned before, could be a head gasket failure, check the exhaust for white fog. Also, are you seeing any water in the oil, I'd let it sit overnight and drain a little out, could be water. If you're using Dexcool you'll never know it because it mixes with the oil (so I've been told).

[ron engele]

i think u're right...

sounds like a head gasket. i just read an posting (somewhere else) that talks about the very same issue. one note to this was a mention about using Automotive Racing Products gaskets and new studs.

i think i'm headin in the right direction.

thanx

[bbudus]

When my head gasket went, the head was still sealed but I was pressurizing the cooling system. Hence I was losing all of my fluid from the overflow. When they rebuilt my block they had to tank both heads, replace sleeve and build up the block and plane it. What a mess!!! :eek:

Good luck!!

Bbudus

[6.542762mw]

Lowering to a 13lb cap raises your temp! 16 lb cap should lower temp. Yet it does increase your radiator pressure. Did you do all the 97 cooling mods or just the water pump?

[ron engele]

6.542762mw
Contributor
Member # 15860

posted 23-06-2005 07:11 PM
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Lowering to a 13lb cap raises your temp! 16 lb cap should lower temp. Yet it does increase your radiator pressure. Did you do all the 97 cooling mods or just the water pump?

--------------------
93 GMC K3500, 97 cooling upgrade, SSDiesel Dmax fan and clutch.
Portland Engine Rocker arms.

yes, i only did the water pump... tell me what other mods are necessary.

i'm in the process of tearin this thing down this week.

thanx,
ron
ke4own@yahoo.com

[Iain]

If you only did the water pump and are still running a single thermostat, the high volume pump may be creating a lot of friction because it cannot pump the antifreeze in the gpm that it was designed for. You should be installing the dual thermostat crossover manifold from a 1997 or newer 6.5TD. This will allow the water pump to flow at a reasonable rate and won't build any extra friction.

The low volume pumps were designed for about 87 gpm and a single thermostat would do the trick. However the newer high volume pumps run at about 124 gpm and need the extra flow that the dual thermostats offer in order to be efficient.

You will need a new upper rad hose and will probably have to modify the alternator brack to fit the new crossover manifold, probably need to carefully bend the injector return line a bit and relocate the water drain line (a couple fo brass elbows worked for me), a possibly shorten the injection pump return line a bit.

Also you will need a new piece of 1" heater hose from the water pump to the crossover manifold. I had a heck of a time with this one but found a chunk of heater hose pre bent 90 degrees that would fit once I trimmed it a bit. It came of of a 1971 Dodge 340 (I have a good parts man who knew this would work! And yes I have a Dodge part on my GM, not proud but it works!).

Make sure your rad is cleaned and pressure checked by a good shop.

You could also upgrade your fan clutch and fan to the 21" Duramax fan (DSG in Saskatoon or Kennedy Diesel in US I believe both carry this).

Hope that helps!