Tapping into OEM harness for remote start wiring [Archive]

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c5dura

10-29-2002, 20:34

I was wondering if someone that has already installed a remote start would be kind enough to share the best locations for tapping into the OEM harness for the following:

* Parking lights (is more than 10A needed?)
* Negative horn trigger wire
* Negative signal for "Wait to Start Light"
* 12V signal when brake is depressed
* OEM alarm disarm ground pulse
* OEM alarm rearm ground pulse
* Tach input
* ACC
* IGN 2/ACC 2 (is this used on these trucks?)
* IGN
* Starter (is more than 30A needed?)
* Negative pulse for door lock
* Negative pulse for door unlock

Are these trucks negative pulse for door lock/unlock?

Thanks!

chevmeister

10-29-2002, 21:46

* Parking lights (is more than 10A needed?)
I tapped behind the switch just find the wire for the lights and tie to it.(10 amp should be fine)
* Negative horn trigger wire
* Negative signal for "Wait to Start Light"
* 12V signal when brake is depressed
Brake box wire harness.
* OEM alarm disarm ground pulse
* OEM alarm rearm ground pulse
* Tach input
* ACC
* IGN 2/ACC 2 (is this used on these trucks?)
* IGN
* Starter (is more than 30A needed?)
* Negative pulse for door lock
* Negative pulse for door unlock
For the door locks you need a relay. both wires are negative now when you hit the switch you change on or the other to hot.
Are these trucks negative pulse for door lock/unlock?
No

Hope it helps some. most of the ign and acc wires are easiest to get at the base of the steering collum.

[ 10-29-2002: Message edited by: chevmeister ]</p>

Alli-max

10-31-2002, 23:14

ALL your questions answered......

www.the12volt.com EXCELLENT forum for alarms, stereos, etc.

c5dura

11-01-2002, 11:13

chuntag95

11-01-2002, 11:29

I just finished doing this exact install. You don't have to get into the kick panel to get the drivers door unlock. It is on the BCM (Body Control Module). The tach and wait to start signals can be pulled from the instrument cluster. The only things that I ran into the engine were the 2 red power wires, the hood switch and the siren. I also powered 4 ignition circuits. There was a pink, white, orange and brown. The little yellow is the starter. WARNING - THE AIR BAG WIRE HAS A YELLOW SHEATH. It looks like the wire you would send to the starter, but it is not. The little skinny yellow wire goes to the starter. The dome light is the dark blue with white strip on the light switch. If you hook into the parking lights as well as the headlights, the chime goes off when you arm or disarm. The disarm stays on a looonnnnggggg time. I took out the parking lights and just left the headlights. There are 2 door triggers. One for the driver and one for all the others. You have to diode isolate them. Here is some info I got on the factory alarm and RAP feature.
To shut down RAP without triggering your aftermarket alarm: Cut any one of the door trigger wires in half; insert a diode inline, facing in the direction that allows the door trigger to still work. Then attach your "pulse after shutdown" wire to the BCM side of the diode, and your alarm's door trigger wire to the "car" side of the diode.............the diode will prevent your new alarm from "seeing" the "pulse after shutdown,", but the GM's BCM will still be able to see it.
Dome light supervision: Connect your new alarm's dome light supervision wire to the BCM side of that diode; the same place as the "pulse after shutdown." This will give you (30 seconds?) of aftermarket supervision, followed by whatever the factory delay is. If you want the delay to be just like factory, split your alarm's unlock wire with two diodes-----send one to the normal unlock wire, and the other to the BCM side of that door trigger wire------the car will think a door has opened, thus activating the factory delay.
Factory re-arm: There are only two ways to arm the factory alarm. 1. Press Lock on the factory keyless. 2. While any door is open, press the power lock button on the door panel, and close the door. ------------ I tried to diode-split the alarm's lock output.....one to the lock wire and the other to one of the door triggers.....but this didn't work for me. I think the BCM needs to see the door being opened BEFORE the lock button is pressed. If you have the time and energy, you could probably duplicate this using some pulse timers or something, which I've never tried before. Or solder into the factory remote, bury it under the dash, and trip it with a relay. For now, though, you'll need to get in the habit of locking the doors before you exit the car, and then arm your aftermarket system with the remote.
This is from the 12V site above. It is awesome, but they don't respond as fast as TDP folks.

Shoot me an email at my id without the Chris in parenthesis at attbi dot com and I can answer specific questions for you.

chevmeister

11-01-2002, 19:19

Is there any way to use the panic button to remote start? wonder if I can disable the panic and make it remote start instead? Or is the bcm the same as the ones in the suburban? can i get a 4 button gm controller and use the rear hatch button to remote start? Just getting the brain wave movin! Ill figure it out some day. unless someone already has then they can tell me.