Stock speaker wires really only 22 Gauge?

[c5dura]

In this thread

http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=000165

Alli-max indicates that the stock speaker wires are only 22 Gauge. Is this really true? Looks more like 18 gauge to me...

The reason I ask is that I'm finally about to wrap up my stereo upgrade project. I installed 14 gauge to the mid bass drivers in the front doors and will be using the stock harness to drive the tweeters in the front doors and the mid bass in the rear doors (no tweeters in the rear doors since I don't want to mess up the sound stage). Besides, I wasn't able to run 14 gauge into the rear doors because there is a plug in-line with the rubber boot that carries the factory wires to the rear doors.

Another member (sorry, don't recall who), mentioned that the stock speaker harness can handle 100W per speaker, and since I'll be running 75W to each of my 4 x-overs that in turn carry only the tweeter signals (front) and the mid-bass (rear) over the factory harness, I figured I'd be in good shape.

The other reason I'd like to partially use the factory harness is that I'm using a PAC OnStar interface unit that plugs directly into the factory harness. I have not had to cut any of the factory wires with my install so far and would like to keep it that way.

The whole system consists of the following components:

Alpine CDA-9815 Head Unit
Alpine CHA-1214 CD Changer
Alpine TUA-T020XM XM Tuner Module
JL Audio 300/4 to drive the component speakers
JL Audio 1000/1 to drive the subs
JL Audio XR650-CXi components (using only X-Overs and mid-bass in rear doors)
JL Audio 10W3r2 Subs

I got 3 layers of Brown Bread in the doors (2 on outer skin and 1 right behind the inside panels), 2 layers on the rear wall, and 1 layer on the floor (2 over the drive tunnel).

As you can see, I got a lot of time and money into this and don't want to screw up by using the factory harness for driving the front tweeters and rear sub-bass if the end result will be compromised in any way, but I really feel you would be hard pressed to tell a difference if I upgraded to 14 Gauge for everything.

Btw, I'm running 10 gauge to the subs.

Watcha think?

[VFRRider]

Looks like quite a system. If ya don't mind my askin, where you puttin those subs?? I'm looking to do an upgrade to the bose, and was thinking of having a thin box fabricated for behind the rear seats.? Don't know if it will work tho, looks kind on limited there. Hate to lose the underseat area.
Mike

[c5dura]

Mike, I do indeed plan to use the space behind the seats for my subs as I also would hate to loose the ability to fold my seats down.

Yes, the depth is limited, so you have to go w/ subs that aren't too deep magnet wise, the JL 10W3r2 fist the bill nice in that regard. I don't recall the exact dimensions, but something like 5" at the top and 8" inches at the bottom is about all the space you have, at least in a crew cab. Also, PAC makes in interface that will give you line level out from the stock Bose system to a sub amp.

Hope that helps a little. You can also do a seach on "sub" and you will get a lot of ideas about what will fit, etc.

[Sandaholic]

Who is PAC? what is there web page?

[mackin]

Not sure of a PAC actual web site .....
They are a interface connection developer to retain stock devices or add equipment to ..... I used one to retain Onstar thru aftermarket Alpine head unit ....
But here are some of the devices they manufacture ....

=>PAC (http://www.soundoffaudio.com/items.cfm/cat1/Car%20Audio/cat2/OEM%20INTERFACES)

Mac ;)

[motovet]

c5, It was me, and yes, I would say the wire upgrade would give little or no audible difference. Going with some good stuff. I am using the 500/1 for the same subs and they hit pretty hard, though I can tell they could eat up a few more watts no problem.I did go with the 300/2 for the fronts and that was a good match for the lows. Only using the HU power for the rears that spend most of their time silent anyway. I have a few pics in my sig of my set up.Moved the rear seat up to get more box, and stuffed it hard with polyfill to get the most out of the space.These subs don't require a lot of air space, but sounded much better with the fill,which tells me more is better.Use some cardboard to get a profile to maximize the use of space.

[c5dura]

Motovet, yep now I remember you were the one that mentioned that. I'm actually using the HU right now to power all the door speakers as I haven't installed the amps yet. I stuffed all 4 cross-overs into the empty space below the cup holders and ran 4 14 gauge wires back to where the amps are going to be before I put the carpet back down.

I must say I'm VERY impressed how good the component speakers sounds running off the HU and with no sub yet (as long as I keep the level reasonable). And I haven't even adjusted the cross-overs, nor the built-in eq in the HU. I'm running all the way down to 20Hz to the mid-bass drivers and I just can't believe how much better this sounds compared to stock and even the temporary Pioneers I had in the doors before I ripped everything apart to install the Brown-bread.

Not to mention how quiet the truck is now driving down the road. Simply amazing. Can't wait to get my sub enclosure built and get my other amps installed and then let the subs handle everything below 80Hz and have the door speakers only handle the range they are intended for.

Btw, I wanted to do 2 layers on the floor, but after going through 2 70 sq ft rools, I decided this was enought for now. Besides, I really needed to get the truck back on the road after 6 weeks in the garage.

[motovet]

c5, I understand the garage time alright. You now have a good foundation for your system. When all is done it will all have been worth it.Keep me posted on the final install, I am curious how the 1000/1 works out.