Pulling the engine-Whats the best way?

[Cowracer]

Well...

I have finally decided that I have no other options except pulling the engine and either having it rebuilt or installing a new one.

Yesterday, I took out the radiator, fan, A/C comp, P/S pump, Alternator, Downpipe, and a host of other little things I know need to get out of the way to get the motor out.

I think that right now, I only have the transmission bolts and the motor mounts left to go.

My question is: As I am working alone,what way will cause me less grief to get it out, and more importantly, getting put back in. Do I try to pull the tranny with the engine as a unit, or do I leave the tranny in place?

If I break them apart, should I disconnect the torque converter from the flywheel (flexplate, whatever) or can the TC slide off the input shaft. I cant recall ever changing a motor on an automatic, so I am not up to speed on the procedure.

Any advice is appreciated!

Tim

P.S. My truck is a 2wd with a 4L80e

[Mainous]

Definitely break them apart. You can cut a piece of pipe that lays in the frame to support the transmission while the motor is out. Pull the inspection cover and remove the torque converter bolts as you have indicated. The fuel lines are held in place by the transmission bolts. So you would have to remove a couple of them anyway. Other than the P/S pump, I R&R'ed mine with all accessories on the motor. You will need to remove the exhaust crossover though.

[jkpyper]

Definitely split them! I used a floor jack under the tranny and took turns lifting up with the engine hoist and following it up with the floor jack. If you have access to the Helm manuals, it gives a pretty good procedure for pulling the engine. It missed a few minor things (I had to remove the heat shield from around the turbo because it interfered with the AC accumulator) but for the most part it was right on the money. My engine should be back in this week (free-time dependent).

Oh yeah, you DO need to unbolt the flex-plate (flywheel) before pulling them.

[john8662]

For those that have pulled their 6.5, is there any concern about pinching the harness that goes back to the transmission while lifting up the engine to clear the engine mounts? I've done a few 6.2's, but was concerned with the 4L80E electrical stuff. Comments?

Cowracer,

Have you decided what to do about a rebuild, are you going to have one built by Diesel Depot? Just curious!

[Cowracer]

Originally posted by john8662:


Cowracer,

Have you decided what to do about a rebuild, are you going to have one built by Diesel Depot? Just curious! I'm 99.2% convinced to have the Diesel Depot build me a motor. I'd love to tackle doing it myself, but I would not trust myself to get it right.

I am following the story of RonnieJoe's rebuild, and I realized that there is a TON of stuff that I dont know about. Better to leave this one to the professionals

I will get 18:1 ceramic pistons, ceramic CC, Gear Drive, Balanced Rotating Assy and other goodies. I am also going to slap a '97 cooling upgrade kit on 'er before dropping it in.

The wife stated that seeing how we will be keeping the current truck, and not getting a new one, she would like to look into getting a 5th wheel camper. :rolleyes: (Another mouth to feed!)

I want to be ready for that eventuality!

Tim

[jkpyper]

Originally posted by john8662:
For those that have pulled their 6.5, is there any concern about pinching the harness that goes back to the transmission ... I was concerned at one point so I lowered everything back down. Upon lowering everything back down, I saw no problems. Out it came w/o a hitch.

[Robyn]

Big thing is to have as much stuff off the engine as possible and to be careful and if it looks shakey dont do it. Fabricate a set of temporary brakets to bolt on the engine so you can lift from and dont try to use a bolt through a chain into the heads, seen them fail and break stuff.
Takes a tad longer to do it right but its real hard to look kewl when something breaks and your engine crashes through the windshield and lands in the front seat. Saw that one time at a small shop close by my place. Couple Boobs that had no clue. WAS a nice Cadillac. Whole lot of stink came down over that one

[jkpyper]

I would vote against major component removal before pulling the engine. The Helm manual will tell you what needs to be removed (save a few minor components) beforehand. I made the mistake of busting my knuckles trying to remove alot beforehand and it just isn't worth it. Remove the extra crap when it is on the stand and easy to get at. Saves alot of skin!

[ace58]

I agree with John, leaving as much as possible together. I even left my radiator in, protected by a piece of plywood, but removed the fan. The wiring harness, fuel and return lines etc. all were easily accessed, but I am glad we left all else to be removed on the stand.

[jkpyper]

I just installed my NEW GEP Navistar casting long block last night. Kennedy hooked me up with my new engine and "signature items". Installation with 90% of components installed was considerably easier than anticipated.

This is the THIRD engine for my truck. I'm hoping the GEP Navistar block and DSG stud girdle will prevent me from needing a fourth. Both previous engines had nice cracks starting from the oil-spray holes going right up the cylinder walls.

Good luck with yours, Cowracer!