View Full Version : Air In Fuel System (Stock System Only)
Those who are following the air trapping issues might
want to contribute to this string if you are having problems
with air or stalling with your stock fuel system. Anyone?
(Air in fuel solutions Pages: 1 2 3 4) STRING
chuntag95 (Chris) wrote in part:
"Several have stalling problems in stock configuration, so what's up with that?"
56 Nomad replied:
Chris, maybe time for a new post to see how many are having such with
air problems with stock fuel set ups. Maybe I missed something?
[ 06-03-2003, 04:41 PM: Message edited by: 56Nomad ]
Pretty quiet........... that might mean
there are no problems ;)
I can think of 2 or 3 here.
Here is an email fwd. The sender can chime in if he likes:
John
I have read many of you posts on the Diesel Page Forum regarding air in
fuel issues. I have a 2003 2500 HD Duramax/Allison Crew LT Long Bed 2 WD
that I bought in Dec 2002. Everything is stock on the truck. The first
week that I had the truck it started, stalled, and would not restart.
The dealer service thought it was a computer problem and chased that for
the first few occurrences. The truck would restart and run after it had
set for a few hours. Last month they determined it was a air in the fuel
problem and after 17 days in the shop, pressure checking the fuel cell
and lines, GM told them to replace the main fuel line and it ran and
started fine for almost a month....
John,
Your post is a "cliff hanger" ..........
What was the end of the story? :eek: :eek:
chuntag95
05-29-2003, 20:58
56Nomad,
I remember one that stated he had stall problems before the install, but they were worse after. When I get some time, I'll try and find the post. Also there is a second one in that grey area of my brain. You know the place, where you held all of the answers to the test. tongue.gif Hopefully I will find that one while looking.
Speak up guys and save me some time so I can continue testing and modifying. :D
I guess I don't count because I have not had stalling either before or after. I did have air stock (clear line pre install just to check) and still do have air all the time. Does that count for a half. ;)
[ 05-29-2003: Message edited by: chuntag95 (Chris) ]
[ 05-29-2003: Message edited by: chuntag95 (Chris) ]</p>
a64pilot
05-30-2003, 06:56
IIRC there is one guy out there that was interested in a bear's pump install for his stock truck to fix stalling problems. Still we are talking about way less than 1 percent maybe less than one hundrenth of a percent. Not a statistically siginificant number apparently, unless of course you are the one with the problem that is.
Since JK said the main fuel line was the problem (it appears), you can chalk that one up to a main fuel line leak that was repaired by replacing the main fuel line.
It's starting to look like air in fuel issues in stock systems are rare and if they do occur they probably can be attributed to a mechanical line or connection problem.
A lift pump would help but is only a bandaid and is kind of overboard, don't ya think?
The lift pump system with pressure control sounds appealing if it contributes some real benefits. As a fix I don't believe it's the way to go. You have to find where the air is getting in.
Maybe they decided to go with a vacuum system to reduce component count, eliminate positive pressure fuel leaks and to save money on parts and warranty.
By installing a lift pump, you reverse that philosophy.
I had a stock start/stall at about 8k miles. It had been sitting for about a week, weather was cool and damp - about 40 at night and 55 daytime, some rain, parked under cover but not inside. Started normally, ran about 5 seconds and then quit with just a very small stumble, then dead. Unable to restart.
Called dealer - towed it in (on a trailer - great service). Next day they reported no identifiable equipment problems, just a big air pocket - just pumped primer to get it to start. Then put 3 1/2 hours into leak chasing and came up "dry" (pardon the pun). Could find no source of air intrusion. Hasn't happened since - now at 12.5k.
:rolleyes:
Randy
Originally posted by rmlm:
I had a stock start/stall at about 8k miles. It had been sitting for about a week, weather was cool and damp - about 40 at night and 55 daytime, some rain, parked under cover but not inside. Started normally, ran about 5 seconds and then quit with just a very small stumble, then dead. Unable to restart.
Called dealer - towed it in (on a trailer - great service). Next day they reported no identifiable equipment problems, just a big air pocket - just pumped primer to get it to start. Then put 3 1/2 hours into leak chasing and came up "dry" (pardon the pun). Could find no source of air intrusion. Hasn't happened since - now at 12.5k.
:rolleyes:
Randy Randy....
Sitting for a week is probably what caused it. I think fuel is able to drain back sometimes if there is a very slight leak somewhere.
It's also possible that the bleeder screw or fuel filter was not tight enough.
If it were my truck and it did it again I would replace the OEM fuel lines wherever possible with a higher quality, tighter fitting hose. I noticed when I installed my Racor the short OEM lines on the OEM filter were pretty cheesy and are held in place with spring clamps.
I also do not like the way the big o-ring on the OEM fuel filter does not lay in the groove properly. You have to stretch it out a little so it will lay in there while spinning the filter on. That is a potential source of problems at the factory installation level.
Make sure the bleeder screw is snug. It may be now and your leak may have disappeared since they already bled the thing and tightened the bleeder.
Just some thoughts...
Hoot,
I've thought thru a lot of these things while watching all the lengthy threads. I've concluded there just isn't enough data to really explain my problem let alone all the others. We are just unable to control all the variables that could be affecting the fuel supply system, though some, like Tommy (ABEAR) have done a h##l of a job at it.
Sitting for a week or two is "normal" for my truck. Weather conditions were "normal" for this area. My one experience has been a real anomaly so far.
It is very likely that a leak had developed (yep, that vent screw is good candidate) and the tech "fixed it" during his troubleshooting without realizing where the source had been. I'm just staying very watchful now and if there is a next time I'll be able to do a little troubleshooting of my own.
Thanks for the tip on the hoses. I'm getting ready to tow our 26' TT to Texas in a few weeks and I'll look hard at replacing those before I go.
smile.gif
Randy
The .... was out of respect for the sender. The rest was more or less idle chit-chat.
My question is this:
If the pickup and return are submerged in fluid, how does it drain back and get air in the system?
We can debate this till the cows come home, but I'm getting quite sick of it. Fact is, the amount of air present varies greatly from truck to truck, and having it there in free form is NOT a desireable thing...
According to a VERY reliable source, there is supposed to be a GM field engineer investigating injector failures, and possible cures (second filter and lift pump for priming) and I intend to try to get in touch with this guy.
If the pickup and return are submerged in fluid, how does it drain back and get air in the system? Sloshing? Aggitation of fuel depending on how it gets used? Drive two trucks down two different roads. One cobblestone and one smooth concrete. I wonder if that would make a difference in air quantity in the one driven on the rough road.
Now if you test two trucks after they have been sitting and you get different results, then sloshing and aggitation isn't it.
Sounds like GM is going the right direction with added filtration. Wonder what brand they'll use? ;)
If they do go with a lift pump that might mean they're conceding that they aren't able to mass produce a reliable vacuum system.
[ 05-30-2003, 08:43 AM: Message edited by: hoot ]
a64pilot
05-30-2003, 17:21
If the pickup and return are submerged in fluid, how does it drain back and get air in the system? Answer, gravity, if there is a leak in anything uphill then air would enter the line and the fuel would drain back into the tank ;)
Leaks, what leaks? You mean we may have air leaks.... :rolleyes:
Lone Eagle
05-30-2003, 19:53
The vacuum would be broken and atmospheric presure would push the fuel back to the tank. Later! Lone Eagle ;)
I think the members who have cut open fuel filters can see that the OEM filter has what appears to be air/fuel interface marks on the element. This was also the reason I decided to reduce the vac on my fuel. So I could utilize the full surface area of the media for longivity and performance. I'm not sure who made the assumption that if diesel will pass through the element then air definitely will but this is not exactly true due to the fact that the fuel will wick through the media. Just take an old T-shirt and try to catch air dry then wet. Water survival coarses teach how to make wet clothing into an air tight life jacket. When I hear someone say I have no air it simply rolls off my back because I have become so accustomed to hearing this from the ones who have truely NOT checked that it begins to mean nothing. I also can open bleeders on a filter and not see air.(means nothing) Thats why the Helms repair manual states to use the clear hose. With that said, If you want to know if you have air get the little clear hose. If you want to know if your filter is performing as claimed get a fuel analysis. I'd be willing to bet that the cases of air unmasked by the mega filter would be near the same percentage as without. Would someone explain to me how the mega filter can possibly MAKE air.
In reguards to the cut open filters in my pics, these are also being used as a baseline for comparison at the next filter change. Bet the interface marks are gone. :rolleyes:
If we really want to see who has got stock air lets head to the hardware store and pick up that clear hose.
[ 05-30-2003, 08:26 PM: Message edited by: a bear ]
I am one that has had a problem with loss of prime!!!!! A couple of others said that they never got repaired and GM Got the truck back.
Mine is a 2003 GMC allison trans. and I can drive it about 120 miles or more, shut it down wait 15 to 20 mins. and it will die after about 20sec of run time. It has to be primed to start. I have not disturbed the OEM system at all. GM has replaced the Injector pump, The fuel tank, the check valve on the pickup pump, And still think its the Injector pump. They replaced the fuel managment system this time. Dont know what else they can do. I am not the only oe folks. I have found several post on this and a lot of them dont get on this forum. HELP!!!!!!!!!!
FirstDiesel
05-31-2003, 05:30
Sure sounds like you need to point the dealer in the direction of looking for the source of the air in the system instead of throwing parts at the problem.
a64pilot
05-31-2003, 06:08
a bear,
I believe we ALL have air, 100% every one of us. Those of us that have a vacuum system that is ;) . Just apparently very few of us have an excessive amount of air. I define excessive as drivibility issues. Of course the Mega cannot make air, nor can it be causing the air. As JK pointed out in the very beginning any increase in the vacuum that the Mega may cause would be between the Mega and pump and therefore if this increase in vacuum were the cause of the air the air would be between the Mega and pump, not in the Mega. ( I paraphrase here and hope he dosen't mind)
The only issue that I see with the Mega is it is trapping the air that we all have. It's not making any or causing any additional air etc. I thought that was clear hundreds of posts ago. I am of the opinion that the fuel system is designed to deal with small bubbbles of air, like seperate it from the fuel in a cavity and return it to the tank or something.
I am trying to get a hold of an engineer from Robert Bosch to ask that, but I have not had a phone call returned as of yet, I only called on Fri. though so I need to give them some time.
Larry,
Good Luck ;)
Pilot,
I also agree we all have air by system design. As far as the pump returning air, I have also desired to know this and mentioned it in a few posts. I would sure shed light on our situation and give direction. I don't think we can expect much support from the makers here due to liability. As I mentioned before the best information we will probably get is to watch for future changes in the fuel system design. Untill then all we can do is what we feel is best for our trucks and as information becomes available change if need be.
Bulldogger
05-31-2003, 07:59
If the mega filter media is more resistant to allowing air to pass, does this mean it also filters dirt better? In another post someone made reference to the Racor filter on our trucks being less effective then the 2 micron claim, and stated this was probably based on GM engineers. My question is: since Racor puts their name on it does it have a different filter media inside of it, then say another 2-micron filter they sell like the R660. :rolleyes:
Just for the record I spoke with the Baldwin rep. that my company deals with at WFC in Port Author, TX. The Mega filter is rated @ 1 Micron. :D Also for the ones that were commenting on the application, any Baldwin filter with the prefix BF is for fuel service. Stands for Baldwin Fuel. The element used for the Mega setup can be used on any diesel system be it in the mining industry or Boudreaux's trawl boat. :rolleyes:
Nice choice JK
[ 05-31-2003, 09:00 AM: Message edited by: a bear ]
Dave Lewis
05-31-2003, 09:20
That's great smile.gif better than we thought. Tommy you have mail.
a64pilot wrote in part:
"I am trying to get a hold of an engineer from Robert Bosch to ask that, but I have not had a phone
call returned as of yet, I only called on Fri. though so I need to give them some time." Thanks for taking the initiative on this one. If one goes back on this forum, there
has been so much time and energy spent on trying to second guess what the
manufactures may have overlooked or perhaps included into the fuel system design.
If we get a definitive reply from Bosch....... that could put many of our concerns to rest.
FYI..... how small do we go?????
Micron (micrometer)
One one-millionth (0.000001) of one meter, or 0.00003937 inch. Bacteria are typically less than one micron in length. The smallest object visible to the naked eye is approximately 40 microns across. Human hairs are between 60 and 80 microns in diameter.
Nominal Filter Rating
An arbitrary value, indicating a particulate size range which the filter manufacturer claims the filter removes some percentage of. Nominal ratings vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and cannot be used to compare filters.
Now look at particle sizes in this chart to get an idea what we are filtering at the 1-2 micron level..
http://www.osmonics.com/products/refpage/Spec-l2.jpg
Boy you guys sure get stuck on one thing. That Mega filter. A GM (Engineer)Has looked at my truck and tried to FIND THE VACUME LEEK. I know there are others out there with start problems and a couple of you with this air in the system thing have mentioned that. This is a lot bigger than one tenth of a percent. My truck is a great truck but if you have to prime it to start it for $40000 thats not good. The guy from Kennady states he is going to talk to an engineer. WEll I for one would sure appreciate some real research by you fellows with the better understanding of this system to come up with a cure. I have a 1970 350 Chev pickup that PULLS A VACUM on the system with an engine mounted fuel pump. Never had a problem with it loosing prime. Maybe GM Needs to back track and keep is from haveing to do there engineering for them Believe me it is not an isolated problem.
My e-mail is earniem@nwi.net if anyone wants to contact me. :rolleyes:
Gee Hoot I really don't want any red blood cells in my fuel. :D :D
Cool chart took me awhile to figure out how to read it.
Now just imagine a pressure washer that puts out 23,000 psi plus.Now wouldn't that blow a hole in the side of your home and not just knock the paint off!!! ;)
dieseldealer
06-01-2003, 18:56
our dealership had a 2002 duramax towed in about 8 times with crank but no start problem. replaced all fuel lines front to back, sending unit, filter housing and a few other parts. I even made a few posts about this truck on this site awhile back to try and get some ideas for our shop.this condition would show up very erratically. very hard to trace. the problem could not be fixed even though the truck spent ALOT of time at our dealership. customer is now driving a 2003 thanks to GM.
a64pilot,
Any news from Bosch yet?
Originally posted by dieseldealer:
our dealership had a 2002 duramax towed in about 8 times with crank but no start problem. replaced all fuel lines front to back, sending unit, filter housing and a few other parts. I even made a few posts about this truck on this site awhile back to try and get some ideas for our shop.this condition would show up very erratically. very hard to trace. the problem could not be fixed even though the truck spent ALOT of time at our dealership. customer is now driving a 2003 thanks to GM. Maybe it wasn't a fuel system problem.
Guys take the blinders off PLEASE!!!
My comment "Maybe it wasn't a fuel system problem" was specific to that truck.
our dealership had a 2002 duramax towed in about 8 times with crank but no start problem. No start does not mean there is a fuel system problem. From reading his post, you almost assume that's all they looked for. Suppose it was an ECM or electrical/sensor issue other than the sensor they replaced? If it is a fuel issue, did they replace the injection pump? Maybe it's the culprit? If you replace the entire fuel system up to the pump and it still does the same thing, most likely the problem is something else not related to fuel or the pump or something ahead of it. Was the tank drained and fresh fuel added? Could there be a mechanical restriction somewhere like in the cooler? All kinds of strange things can point us in all directions.
I don't think anybody is in denial about dirty fuel issues and most of us believe secondary filtration is a must.
We have not seen a lot of "loss of prime" problems except for the ones with the big red filter. Ooops... I forgot, it's not a problem. It's a characteristic :rolleyes:
[ 06-03-2003, 08:20 AM: Message edited by: hoot ]
kraemerf
06-03-2003, 08:46
A friend of mine with a totally stock '03 has lost prime at least twice in less than 10K miles.
There's a LOT more out there believe me when I say it. Many just don't come to the DP...
Originally posted by kennedy:
There's a LOT more out there believe me when I say it. Many just don't come to the DP... With that being the case we would suspect a fairly common defect. Or is it mysterious in every single case?
I mean, is there anything really special here about the fuel system from the tank to the hp pump? Pretty basic plumbing is it not? We might be getting leakage from the front end (hp pump forward) of the system causing loss of prime whereas the lines leading up to the hp pump it might be fine.
White Truck (trusted GM technician) has reported a stocker with this issue. Vac testing showed no signs of trouble in the feed lines between the sender and the OE filter so the sender was replaced and apparently cured (or masked) the problem.
I believe that I have heard of pumps being replaced and curing the issue as well.
I don't think anyone knows, and I don't think that it is a consistent issue, but I do hear rumblings about additional filtration, and lift pumps?
dmaxalliTech
06-03-2003, 13:32
I have followed all of these threads with interest but have failed to speak much because I dont like entering an arena when the **** is flyin. However, I must comment a little here. I am not defending or condeming anybody here, but being exposed to these trucks (more then my own) on a daily basis, I see some things that most of you dont. First, the air problem with stock setup is more common than percieved here. The 'big red filter' does not make air, and with proper installation, does not leak... so why do we have the problems, maybe because the air that the mega is trapping is because the oem cannot properly remove it?? There are more leak points on this system than one would think, heck, the sending unit itself could be sucking air inside the tank, but only when fuel is below a certain level.... seen it, its possible.. There are so many varaibles here. Why dont the Cat filter and Racor filter trap air?? dont know, maybe they are no better then stock other than added filtration??
I too have heard of GM investigating lift pump ideas to help eliminate the problems that a VERY small vacuum leak can create. I dont know what will happen but talks are there. I have leak tested many trucks and found pumps, lines, fittings, senders, oem filters, etc. being the cause of the problem... I do have a MEGA filter on my truck so some might think I am partial. But I know that I have not got enough air out of it since installation to make an ant fart. Perhaps I did something wrong, dont know. I have installed one other filter and he has had no problems, dont know. Granted, two instances dont dispell problems but... Any one want to sit on my chair for a week and see what rolls in the door??
Well if the Mega is anything it's one helluva air catcher ....
Someone should T in a Fumuto valve of sorts into the clean side of Racor or Cat and dispell the rumor of poor filtering capabilities ...
Mac http://forums.thedieselstop.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif http://forums.thedieselstop.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif http://forums.thedieselstop.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
dmaxalliTech
06-03-2003, 13:48
Just to clarify, I never made mention of any claims to clean fuel, I think that ANY filter added is better then nothing
dmaxalliTech
06-03-2003, 14:48
KREA
Has anyone replaced the fuel line from the tank to the stock filter, with a one piece fuel line? I know this stuff get's expensive, but just woundering if it's been tried. I know this wouldn't remove an issue with sender, just thinking.
chuntag95
06-03-2003, 18:06
Dmaxalli Tech,
KERA??? :confused:
JakeG,
I just bought 19' of hose and have thought the exact same thing.
Anyone else support this type of test or should replacing the QDs get it?
dmaxalliTech
06-03-2003, 18:19
sorry, I am asking KREA where in MI he is from....
He posted above, newbie
The stock frame rail line from front to back COULD cause a leak at the flexible point where it switches from running along frame to along trans. I have seen one blow apart on the return line, fuel just pooring out of it, and it never had any start/ run problems for the week the guy drove it before bringing it it. Of course, it was the return side of thingss.
Chris,
Since you have the hose it would seem to be a good experiment. Is your hose 7/16 id? I replaced the OE line from the tank to the steel line with 7/16 id Gates hose (per Tommy’s recommendation –
dmaxalliTech wrote in part:
The stock frame rail line from front to back COULD cause a leak at the flexible point where it switches from running along frame to along tran How about using Parker 250 psi 1/2 (ID) blue hose?
Need 5/16 for the return and 7/16 for the feed.
Originally posted by dmaxalliTech:
The 'big red filter' does not make air, and with proper installation, does not leak... so why do we have the problems, maybe because the air that the mega is trapping is because the oem cannot properly remove it?? OEM cannot properly remove air? I don't think any of these filters were meant to remove air.
I think it's possible that too large of a filter creates a stagnent point in fuel flow within the filter, allowing vapor to accumulate. Fuel enters the Mega at a higher velocity coming out of the 1/2" lines than practically stops in the cavern of the Mega. It's possible the Mega is simply too big/good of a filter.
a64pilot
06-04-2003, 07:21
56Nomad,
Haven't heard anything yet. Just got back to work today, (Wed.) won't be able to try again until thursday, catching up at work.
In reference in attempt to contact Robert Bosch.
dmaxalliTech
06-04-2003, 12:11
HOOT, your right, that sounded stupid :D
I meant that its allowing it to pass instead of collecting it like the mega set up seems to.
sorry :D
kraemerf
06-04-2003, 13:27
dmaxalliTech, I'm from Milford, MI (near Brighton). About 2 hours +/- east of you. My friend with the stock '03 that lost prime is from Auburn Hills, MI (neasr the Palace).
kraemerf
06-04-2003, 13:28
FWIW, I'm kinda waiting till see how things shake out before I add extra filtration. I'm somewhat mechanically capable, not sure if I personally want to mess with the fuel system on a $40K+ truck that is still under warranty.
kraemerf,
My truck is still under warrenty and I also was
concerned about dealer issues. I have checked our
two local dealers (Santa Cruz & Watsonville) and
both had no problems with my Racor set up affecting
warrenty issues. I'll bet your dealer will give you
the thumbs up.
What better time to put secondary filtration on your
truck than when it is new! Your injectors will love you :D :D
I'm kinda waiting till see how things shake out before I add extra filtration. I'm somewhat mechanically capable.. Let me assure you, the install is not difficult.
Make sure you're working in a clean working
environment and your installed parts are
free from any dirt or debris.
If you go with the CAT assembly, the parts
are more easily obtained locally. That's
one advantage. The CAT assembly does not
come with a clear bowl water separator that
the Racor assembly has included.
http://members.cruzio.com/~quailman/Racor.jpg
kraemerf
06-04-2003, 18:20
56Nomad,
Warranty is one concern...the other is trusting myself messing with a fuel system that I'm not that familiar with (my first diesel). Tearing apart a carb on a 2-stroke toy is one thing...cutting fuel lines on a $40K truck is another. If/when I do it, I'd pay a professional to install. I'd sleep better that way. :cool: I changed my fuel filter at 9,500 miles and had no water in it. I still have not cut open the filter yet. I have it sealed in a plastic bag sitting on my work bench.
Warranty is one concern...the other is trusting myself messing with a
fuel system that I'm not that familiar with (my first diesel). Tearing apart
a carb on a 2-stroke toy is one thing...cutting fuel lines on a $40K truck is
another. kraemerf,
Actually, there is no cutting involved. You remove an single piece of factory
11" rubber fuel line that runs from the OEM filter to the pump suction port.
I'm glad I looked at mine and removed it, because it had a major crip in it
caused by a too tight factory plastic tie. Then you run a 3-4 foot new fuel line
from the OEM filter to the Secondary filter inlet. Then run another 3-4 foot
new fuel line from the Secondary filter outlet to back to the pump suction port.
Installation of a secondary filter under the air box is really a no brainer..........
[ 06-04-2003, 07:13 PM: Message edited by: 56Nomad ]
smile.gif I just got my truck back from the dealer. They replaced the fuel managment system(OEM filterand related lines) And the sending unit in the tank. I believe I git a bad primer pump and check valves and that is where they are at. My dealer listened to me and gave it a shot so far we cannot get it to repeat a no start. The O ring and the bleeder valve are suspect as well. I told the dealer that if it did this again I was installing a booster pump. They are looking for a pump for me. I will be over at the Rondezvous in Missoula MT.
Earnie,
Hope you have the problem solved. I see that you have Hadley Air Horns. I've posted in the
Accessories Forum on this topic and would
appreciate if you let me know about them.
Thanks
Originally posted by 56Nomad:
Earnie,
Hope you have the problem solved. I see that you have Hadley Air Horns. I've posted in the
Accessories Forum on this topic and would
appreciate if you let me know about them.
Thanks I saw at a truck pull some guys are using real train horns. This setup is on a Dmax...
http://www.uscom.com/~hoot/cars/duramax/makowski/8-17-02-134.jpg
It's actually a set of three horns and you talk about loud. I'm thinking about getting a set and using lp to power them. That way i won't need a compressor. Got a light?
kraemerf
06-05-2003, 06:11
56Nomad,
I looked at your picts and it helped clarify alot. Thanks. Did you make your own bracket?
kraemerf,
Yes I started with a 4"x4" angle iron and cut it
down the the size shown in my photos.
I originally made this bracket to hold a CAT filter assembly
which was mounted on my frame. After re-thinking
and following all the input on how a pre filter clogs
too soon, I dumped the CAT, put my fuel line back
on the frame, and moved this same bracket to under
the airbox and bought the Racor assembly.
My bracket is kinda overkill-- 4"(L) x 3.5"x2.5"
You might ask hoot what he used for his angle
iron bracket and the dimentions.
I don't have any dimensions handy but I picked up what I believe was the biggest angle iron Home Depot had in the hardware dept. It's probably 1-1/2 x 1/8 thick. I just laid it up against the head so it was flush with the top surface and marked it.
http://www.uscom.com/%7Ehoot/cars/duramax/gmc/fuelfilter/thumbnails/DSCN2957.jpg
[ 06-05-2003, 11:17 AM: Message edited by: AXE GRINDER ]
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.