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View Full Version : Bleeder Screw This is BS



DURA-MAX3
05-27-2003, 17:28
Went to James Woods in Decatur the other day to get one of those extra bleeder screws for the filter head, the dealer looked it up on the picture machine and said it only comes with the whole filter head. Can't buy it seperatly, this is bs. Surly he is wrong about this. Mine is sure looking bad, plastic, who designs this stuff...

56Nomad
05-27-2003, 17:38
Greg sells a stainless steel replacement
screw for $7+ bucks.....

http://www.lubespecialist.com

ccds
05-27-2003, 17:38
you can buy stainless steel ones from:

http://www.thedieselpage.com/vendors/amsoil.htm

he is an advertiser here

smile.gif

56Nomad
05-27-2003, 17:42
Also,

Diesel Injection Service sells them:

Part # RK 30818 Bleeder Screw for OEM fuel Primer

rtquig
05-27-2003, 18:07
I would stay away from the stainless. This has been discussed here before, but stainless is a harder metal than aluminum. Also if you look on a metals compatable chart, the two are not a good mix. IMO

1BADDMAX
05-27-2003, 18:49
I changed my fuel filter today and noticed my plastic bleeder screw is looking a little mangled. I use a 1/2 inch nut driver now so it should be good to go. I will probably get my bleeder screws from Diesel Injection Service since I get my filters there.

By the way, does anyone know what size wrench I need to take the water sensor off. I've been using vicegrips and it's starting to look pretty rough. I figure it's about time I look into buying a replacement. Anyone have the GM part number.

wushaw
05-27-2003, 19:26
Stainless and aluminum fittings are used together in the aircraft industry everyday on hydraulic, water and fuel lines and there are butt load of steel, stainless and titanium fastners used throughout the rest of the aircraft.
There shouldn't be a problem with it.

mackin
05-27-2003, 19:44
The bleeder screw is 13mm ... Or of course bogger me up flat head screwdriver ...


Mac ;)

1BADDMAX
05-27-2003, 20:35
Mackin,

You happen to know what size for the water sensor on the bottom of the filter.

HotShot
05-27-2003, 21:02
1BADMAX,

A set of waterpump pliers does a great job.

et
05-27-2003, 23:28
I use the wrong end of a pair of pliers to remove the water sensor. Just place both handles into opposite slots near the drain and turn. If you need additional leverage, place a screwdriver in the mouth of the pliers and twist while pushing toward the filter. Since it is sealed with an "O" ring, it should not be overly tightened.

That way you will never scar your nut, be it metric or english!

mackin
05-28-2003, 20:02
1BADDMAX

I also just use a pair of channel locks ...Yes it's getting a bit boggered ... For some reason I don't feel I have a wrench or socket big enough...I have 25mm in both but it looked bigger... Next time I have it of I will measure for you ...

Mac

Turbo Al
05-29-2003, 16:02
Wushaw, Rtquig is correct the two metals are a fair way away from each other on the Nobility chart.
Aircraft are not made from Pure Aluminum generally it's CLAD 2024 or 2017 Aluminum alloy. Which is Aluminum with aprox. 4.5% copper,.6% Manganese & 1.5% Magnesium with a Pure Aluminum coating (Alclad) on both sides.
All disimiliar metal aircraft fasterners have some sort of coating or plating to prevent them from interacting with (Galvanic corrosion) each other.
Some of these coatings are, aluminum, cadmium, nickel-cadmium, phosspate fluoride, chromium the list goes on depending on application and metal involved.

[ 05-29-2003: Message edited by: Turbo Al ]</p>