CAT Filter install Success!

[ndamico]

First i want to say thanks for all the help fellow DP members have given me, especailly TraceF.

I finished my CAT pre-OEM install today and am quite pleased. i connected the inlet directly to the tank, and the outlet to the hard line by the fuel cooler, which helped to eliminate the quick-disconnect GM fittings on one line at least.

Pictures are updated:

http://www.wackywack.com/dmax.htm

if anyone wants a bracket like mine, speak up as i don't mind making more. I rather enjoy it and am not trying to make money off anyone.

Thanks again for all your help! I feel so much better to be down in the 2 micron range!

Nick :D :D :D :D :D

[ 05-16-2003: Message edited by: ndamico ]</p>

[hoot]

Great job but you gotta do something about the dirt getting thrown all over it by the tires!

Also the remote possibility of something flying into it and punching a hole in it.

Fab a nice protective cover for it.

[ 05-13-2003: Message edited by: hoot ]</p>

[ndamico]

Hoot,

i'd thought about the tires.. going to wait and see if it causes a problem. as for something punching a hole in it..did you noticed the 5" wide 1/4" steel plate that covers the entire front of it (plus a couple inches)?

the only thing that could hit it would come dirctly from below it, like a landmine..anything that gets thrown up should be blockets by the 5" wide steel plate..

what kind of "cover" would you suggest? i'm always open to improving it for sure!

[OC_DMAX]

ndamico,

Did you lower the fuel tank to plumb the fuel line to it or did you do similar to "jbplock" and leave the tank in place? Just curious on any tips/suggestions you might have about connecting directly to the tank. I am planning to get rid of the fuel line with the two quick disconnects. Have not determined which is the best way to work the top of fuel tank.


Thanks,
Alan

[jbplock]

Nick,
Looks good! That's a BIG filter! :eek:

Also, just curious, did you drop the tank to make your connections? smile.gif

[ 05-13-2003: Message edited by: jbplock ]</p>

[ndamico]

OC_DMAX & jbplock,

Yes i did have to drop the fuel tank. if i didn't have the 45Gal TransferFlow tank i wouldn't have had to. i just put a floor jack under it with a piece of plywood on it and unbolted the 4 nuts, lowered it and then plumbed the lines. i also disconnected the filler neck from the side of the truck. the install was a pain as i went through a few plumbing revisions along the way. next time it will be simple!

and yeah, i'm hoping to get 15k out of this big filter. if OTR trucks can run on it for a long time then i don't see why my tiny diesel can't!!

OC_DMAX - as for getting to the tank, i crawled up between my muffer (banks) and right side frame rail. then i could see and reach the top of the tank as well as the lines. i disconnected the front fitting by lowering the tank about 6" and reaching in from the driver's side under the bed..

[hoot]

Nice. I saw the plate but didn't see the view with the plate in front.

Little note for everybody....

The fellow that sold me my fuel line asked me how I was using it. He said if you weren't using pushlocks or if the steel line doesn't have a raised rib, you'll have problems with sealing. In otherwords, this could be an air leak source. You'll see this when steel lines are cut and hose slipped over and clamped. Not a good idea.

[ 05-13-2003: Message edited by: hoot ]</p>

[ndamico]

Hoot,

i hear you on the lines. i guess only time will tell. the line from the tank is plastic, and i could flare it. i was all set to flare both OEM fittings but ended up pushing the line over both when i realized 1 was plastic. i could have used a compression fitting on the plastic, but if it didn't seal i would have been screwed and had to buy a new sender.. to test my "clamped line" i put one piece of tubing in the vice, connected the hose with the hose clamp and pulled. as hard as i pulled i couldn't get it to budge.. air may be leaking but i guess only time will tell. at least i know it won't fall off!

Nick

[OC_DMAX]

ndamico,

Thanks for the info on the fuel tank connection method. Its interesting to see all the combinations of mounting locations and filter types (and subsequent modifications) that people are coming up with. I hope your large CAT filter works out for you.

Alan

[jbplock]

Hoot,

Good point on sealing the hose with out a flare or raised rib. Also, compression fittings with ferules would be nice but that may make the connection non-reversible back to the OE QD's, as the ferules "bite" into the tube may disturb the sealing surface for the QD o-ring. I used 7/16 id gates hose per Tommy's suggestion, which his pressure and vacuum test proved to be a good seal. The 7/16 hose yielded a very tight fit and IMHO it's much better than the loose/wimpy fitting O-rings in the OE QD connectors.
smile.gif

As an aside, In DR Lee's 6.2 lift pump article several years ago, when asseblming his hose to steel line connections he "put a dab of Permatex #2 sealant (the non-hardening one) to act as a lubricant when assembling the system, and a sealant as it sets up".

http://www.thedieselpage.com/features/leefilt.htm

[Mudflap]

ndamico:

Great job on the CAT filter install. Can you give me some details on your high idle and lock-out switches, availability, installation? Thanks

[ndamico]

jbplock,

after playing with those OEM QD fittings, i realized how loose they actually fit. that made me feel better about clamping the hose. only time will tell. i do feel better that clamping my hose to a spare piece of steel line held like a champ when i yanked as hard as i could on it..

mudflap - as for the High Idle and OD lockout, i got the switches from digikey.com. what else would you like to know?

[ 05-14-2003: Message edited by: ndamico ]</p>

[Jack's Dmax]

NDAMICO,

Could you please provide some measurments for the bracket. I have exactly the same truck with the TFI 45-gallon tank. Where did you buy your Cat parts from? Any advice that you might have would be appreciated.

Thank you very much,

Jack
w7jk@cedarcomm.com

[ 05-16-2003: Message edited by: Jack's Dmax ]</p>

[ndamico]

Jack,

I just made my drawing into a PDF document and would be happy to email it to you or anyone else. Just drop me an email and i'll get it out..

As for the CAT parts, i bought the from Holt of CA. they are a big cat dealer in my area, plus my neighbor works there ;)

So far so good. No air, no leaks, just clean fuel!

[Victory Red]

Ok I need to make sure here. I've got the CAT parts but the filter base(1N3789) isn't labeled in or out? Left port in, right port out(with filter base bolt holes away from you and cover plate tilted towards you.

[ 05-16-2003: Message edited by: Victory Red ]</p>

[ndamico]

that's how i did it...

[imported_]

Red,

The bleeder is on the clean side (output) of the filter.

check out

www.oldmacksrus.com/Duramax%20Picts/DSCN0250.jpg

And make sure you get the filter on tight, I believe that was the cause of my air problems

[ 05-17-2003: Message edited by: Big Blue ]</p>

[Victory Red]

Thanks Big Blue. I had seen that pic before but was having a hell of a time finding it again. Anyhow I've got all the parts I need still working on a engine cab location that will allow me to use the tall filter. If not, does anyone know if the short will live as long as the OEM? Or will I be changing it more frequently due to the smaller capacity?

[imported_]

I am using the short filter in the JK position under the air box. I will switch to the long filter my next change. I mounted the filter head against the ps of the truck using an existing hole. I can access the bleeder through the head light. I also needed to use two 90 degree elbows for the fuel lines off the filter. The best thing you can do for this install is buy a nutsert instalation tool. I got one locally for $25 with 1/4 inch inserts and used SS stove bolts. The fender skirt comes off in seconds.

[Victory Red]

Big Blue,

If you have any photos of your install I'd love to seem them. Am I correct in understanding that you found enough room in that general vicinity to install the large as well? I still haven't had the chance to crawl under my truck and do some 'soul searching'. Saturdays are my yard work days, Sundays are my fundays.

[imported_]

Red,

Shoot me an e-mail and I will send pics

btaylor004 at sasktel.net

[Jorday]

You mentioned wanting to get 15k out of this filter. I was just sort of wondering, what would be the recommended change interval for the stock filter then if you haven't had a chance to install a better filter?

Thanks,
Jordan

[Victory Red]

Well the owners manual change every 15000. Seems kind of silly since 15000 is nothing for someone who drives 1000 miles a week, but a long time for a city dweller. Me personally I track every tank full for mpg and I will look for noticeable drops in mpg or power before I change filters. At most once a year will be my interval. I know John Kennedy says never go over 10,000 with the OEM's but than again, mileage doesn't seem to be an accurate way to measure life of the OEM. I think this is one of those things every individual needs to 'feel out' for themselves with so much variance in fuel quality, climate and driving style.

[Victory Red]

Oh and you've got mail Big Blue

[Kennedy]

Mileage is DIRECTLY related to gallons of fuel processed. Every other oil change or every 3rd oil change is a good idea. I've seen some with 15k+ and no signs of restriction, but then again, the filter could have looked like the one Mdrag cut open a while back! :eek:


The BIGGEST factor in filter life is the cleanliness of the fuel used. Do not think for a minute that large truck stops moving large volumes have clean fuel. The volume factor is more of an indicator that the fuel does not stand stagnant for long...