EGT/Boost Gauges?

[Jeff McClain]

I just got a Diablo Sport Predator programmer for my '05 LLY Duramax. I'm planning to tow a 6500lb travel trailer, and everything I read says I should have at least an EGT gauge, and I would like to have a boost gauge too.

1) Any recommendations (I know the Juice+Attitude has this digitally, but not sure I want/need this much at this time).
2) Is the boost electronically available already (for some reason, my Predator diagnostic mode doesn't read anything out on the "boost" line), or should I just go for a mechanical/tubing guage?
3) Any issues or recommendations on tapping the EGT sensor? I assume most everyone puts it before the Turbo? Where is best place to drill?
4) I like the Autometer Carbon Fiber type gauges. Anyone have a good place for both with a pod to fit an '05 Chevy? A-pillar?

Thanks,

-JM

[Jim Brzozowski]

visit Kennedy Diesel

[DmaxMaverick]

The Predator will show boost, they just don't call it that. Look for Manifold Air Pressure (MAP). IIRC, it should be in Engine Data 1 and Fuel Trim. I don't think it is compensated for atmosphere, so you may have to calculate that with your altitude. The PCM does not monitor EGT, but will protect the engine to some degree by logically monitoring fuel delivery, boost, timing and RPM. Unfortunately, a power adder skews some of those parameters and reduces the effectiveness the protection. Engine damage has occured from unmonitored EGT's and use of a power adder.

Independent gages are the best option. I don't think fumbling with the tuner when you need to see the data is a good idea.

[Jeff McClain]

Originally posted by DmaxMaverick:
The Predator will show boost, they just don't call it that. Look for Manifold Air Pressure (MAP).Thanks!!!



Independent gages are the best option. I don't think fumbling with the tuner when you need to see the data is a good idea. Agreed.


One other question: Do any of you have concerns with drilling/tapping a screw type probe into the manifold BEFORE the turbo? I would assume some care would need to be exercised to avoid dropping metal shavings into the chamber (especially PRE Turbo)?

-JM

[ 04-28-2005, 11:53 AM: Message edited by: Jeff McClain ]

[dmaxmule]

I just installed Auto-meter Gages in my truck this past weekend. I put them in the a-pillar pod and they look great. Drilling the manifold and intake was easy and with a little caution the metal shavings do not cause a problem. Check out MorePower's Got Gauges article. The install was not even that hard. The hardest part was getting the EGT probe wire boost sensor tube thru the rubber wiring harness boot in the firewall.

I am just curious what is the normal for egt's and boost pressure with normal driving and towing.

[Jeff McClain]

One other question: I just ordered a set of new Carbon Fiber Autometer gauges off Ebay (and a 2-place short pod). Got a 0-1600'F EGT and a 0-35lb boost gauge (all 2-1/16"). Is there any reason to have vaccuum reading on my boost gauge? Saw some have that, but most only go to 0-25lbs then.

Also, where do you put the boost gauge sensor?

TIA,

-Jeff

[DmaxMaverick]

Originally posted by Jeff McClain:
One other question:....Is there any reason to have vaccuum reading on my boost gauge? Saw some have that, but most only go to 0-25lbs then.

Also, where do you put the boost gauge sensor?

TIA,

-Jeff A vacuum reading is very handy to track air filter restriction, other than that, not necessary.

As far as the boost sensor goes, on an LB7, you can tee it into the OEM sensor line. I'm not sure on the LLY, but it could be the same. Either way you go, I suggest picking up the boost as close to the cylinder as possible, after the intercooler.

[bobo]

You will need to tap the intake manifold on the LLY for the boost. It is easy. I had the AFE air intake on when I did mine. I pulled it off to get access to the blue tube attached to the intake manifold. Pull off the blue tube, stuff some rags into the manifold. Place the blue tube on the end of a shop vac hose. Attach shop vac hose to manifold and turn on. Drill and tap manifold. Remove shop vac, pull out rags and install boost tube adapter. It's that easy. Shop vac helps to suck out particles, and rags wipe inside of manifold clean when you pull them out. Just be careful, drill slow, and it should go smooth. I started with a small drill bit and worked my way up to the size I needed. You do the boost drilling with the engine off, the pyrometer is done with the engine running. I can take pics and email them to you if you need them.

[More Power]

All of the above is good advice... smile.gif

You can also check the TDP member area gauge install piece we did a while back by clicking on the Got Gauges! (http://www.thedieselpage.com/members/duramax/dmaxgage.htm) link.

MP

[ 07-10-2005, 01:31 PM: Message edited by: More Power ]

[Jeff McClain]

Thanks for all the help here, guys. I also found a couple other links that are very helpful for all this:

http://www.bmdmax.com/Gauges.html.0.html
http://www.kennedydiesel.com/dmaxguages.html

Thanks to everyone for the help (especially the folks at the links above that put so much time into documenting the proceedure).

-JM

[Jeff McClain]

Thanks to everyone here and in the links above. After 3.5 hours of work (part of that spent scrambling to move the truck and all my tools into the garage when a sudden torrential down pour hit) last night, I have my gagues installed. They look good, and I am getting what appear to be good readings from them.

Normal CC driving down the Freeway at 70 mph (in around 50'F OSAT) with Predator 45hp program (no other mods and empty...just truck), I get around 900'F on the EGT's and 5-7psi boost. I can spike the boost to around 30psi if I floor the accellerator from a stop, and it is cool to see how the computer changes the turbo fins as you shift to remove boost. The pyrometer response is FAST, and I spike up into 1200'F VERY quickly if I keep my foot into it (I've no doubt it would continue to go up past 1350'F if I left it).

This is the first time I've really romped on the throttle (I just hit 500 miles), and WOW, I knew this thing had pretty good torque, but not only that, when that turbo is really pumping, this thing will just get up and flat out move!!

Anyway, no major problems encountered. Thanks again for everyones posts in these boards and ESPECIALLY to those folks that posted guides/walk throughs. They gave me lots to think about and figure out ahead of time what I wanted to do, so it was all pretty straight forward when I actually started last night.

Regards,

-JM