New Found Horse Power!

[Uncle Wally]

Hey Guys!

Well I finally got it all back together. I was getting extremely frustrated with the company I had ceramic/thermal barrier coat my exhaust manifolds. Once I got them back, it was a quick call to ARP to order a set of exhaust manifold bolts and turbo bolts.

Things went to together very quickly with the new Peninsular Diesel non-wastegated turbo (250hp version), until I realized the oil return line was not going to bolt up. It took an entire day to modify the original tube. (I wish I had my TIG welder now - as gas welding I have not done in many years)

After that one issue, I had everything together in short order. A few minuted for the chip replacement and it was time for a test drive!

It's not a slouch anymore!

There are still things to work on as of yet. Retorqueing all the bolts. Checking for leaks. Change the oil. Set TDC Offset. But thus far I am extremely inpressed (of course I could always use more!)

Thanks go to Matt at Pen Diesel, John Kennedy (throughout the whole process thus far), and everyone else on the page that has helped out. I still have the intercooler to do as of yet, but on a full throttle run with no load, I would only max out at 1000 EGT.

More when we finally pull the horse trailer!

Waldo

[david]

Wally,
I would cool it for about 500miles then go nuts :D

[Mark Bajus]

hey waldo,
what made you decide on the 250HP turbo rather than the 300HP penninsular or one of JK's?

[HoosierGMC2500]

Uncle Wally,

The company I work for does thermal barrier coating for aerospace industry and wondered what coating you had done. We are very service oriented and perhaps there is a potential to serve the diesel market.

Thanks,

Bill

[Uncle Wally]

I spoke with Matt at peninsular diesel about which turbo to run. My initial choice was the 300hp unit.

The 250hp unit will bolt to the stock manifold, although the oil return line needed to be modified.

The 300hp unit requires mods to the manifold (Matt said something along the lines of cutting off existing turbo mounting flange and welding on one that would bolt to turbo).

Matt also stated that the 300hp version tends to leave lots of smoke when you first get rolling. He also said that 300hp was attainable with the 250hp unit.

The part that sold me was the fact that I could return the 250hp unit and exchange it for the 300hp unit if I didn't like it.

As for coatings - I am glad I did it, even though it was a pain in the arse to get everything apart. I believe the coatings are made by swaintech and applied by someone local here. Ceramic on the outer surfaces with an additional thermal barrier to the inside.

It took a lot longer to get them back than was originally quoted, but they did a top notch job. And it wasn't very expensive. Whether or not there is a large enough market in the diesel truck world to support the expense? I don't know if I would go that far. But the antique car world is another story. That's how I found this company. The other aspect of this is that I am extremely particular. Almost anal. I don't do things half way. I'm not sure that there are a lot of people out there with that same outlook.

Waldo

[Journeydog]

Uncle Wally...

I'm in the final stage of having a new Peninsular engine installed in my motorhome and I also have the 250 turbo. Obviously, I haven't tried out the new config yet, but I'm trying to anticipate what's going to happen, especially with the non-wastegate/PCM relationship.

Before my original engine kicked the bucket, I had a Heath RV chip and plan to work with Bill to modify it to work with my new engine. Here's my question for ya. How are you taking care of the loss of the wastegate? How do you fake out the PMD so that you're not setting codes like 78s?

[Uncle Wally]

I spoke with John Kennedy about this. The chip I bought from him, according to John, hides the boost from the PCM. I'm not sure exactly how this is done, as I am not a expert in electronics (I know just enough to be extremely dangerous!!). I would guess that one of the gates in the chip are permanantly set to be open.

At any rate, I just pluged the vacuum line for the time being. I haven't had any codes as of yet. I am thinking about removing the vacuum pump altogether as there isn't a need for it anymore (as far as I know). I just need to come up with a idler of some sort so I don't have to figure something special out for the belt. That should leave some more room for the I/C too.

Call John, he's been extremely helpful and speaks it as he sees it.

Waldo

[david]

Wally
Use a belt for a 92 6.2 to get rid of the wac. pump.
How much is the 250 hp engine ,mine just blew a rod thru the pan???
David :mad:

[patrick m.]

Hey Uncle Wally, how much boost is that turbo delivering?

[Uncle Wally]

Running without a load (I haven't pulled our horse trailer yet) I can quite easily peg the 15 psi boost gauge. It takes a floored pedal, but it will be greater than 13 psi the entire time. I have seen spikes that would bring it well past 15 psi (I am estimateing 18-20). This is high for not having an I/C installed, so I let off at about 13 or so.

As for a engine, go to peninsular diesel's web page. They have short blocks advertised there. They seem very reasonable. I am not sure if it is a 'new' GEP block or a remaned unit. The other option would be to give Avant Salvage a call. I believe they are advertized on the page, and they have a good rep from what I have read. I would expect to be able to buy a reman short block in the 2000 - 3000 range with 18:1 pistons. ( I am actually waiting for mine to give up the ghost so I can go that route - 'new' GEP block with 18:1 pistons, phazer gears and everything thermal coated.) There is a used 6.5 here locally advertised with a new turbo for 2500 - complete. I'm not sure it's worth it, but I noticed it the other day.

Waldo