Fuel Filter

[cruzar]

I have read about changing the fuel filter, My question is on the tube on the bottom of the filter do you unscrew this attachment or does it just pull down to separate it from the filter.

[DmaxMaverick]

Originally posted by cruzar:
I have read about changing the fuel filter, My question is on the tube on the bottom of the filter do you unscrew this attachment or does it just pull down to separate it from the filter. Not sure what you're talking about. Are you refering to the water drain valve, or the wire harness for the "water in fuel" circuit?

The wire doesn't separate from the assy. Follow it to a connector toward the engine, and disconnect it BEFORE you put the strap wrench onto the filter. The water drain is threaded (normal R/H thread). If there is a hose (tube) attached to the water drain, it just pushes onto the drain valve.

The plastic part of the assy at the bottom of the filter (water in fuel sensor/float) can be removed either before (can be messy), or after filter removal. A real nice wrench for just this purpose is offered by www.kennedydiesel.com (http://www.kennedydiesel.com) . It is threaded into the bottom of the filter, and sealed with an O-ring (a new O-ring should be supplied with the filter, as well as a larger O-ring for the top, and and internal rubber gasket, which should be already attached to the filter). Be sure to remove the internal gasket at the top of the filter. Sometimes they stick onto the filter housing nipple. Have a look at the new filter as a reference.

[cruzar]

Thanks for the information. I read on one post that to place the filter in a large freezer bag. If I do this could it possibly damage the sensor from the fuel that is residual in the filter or am I making it harder than it is to replace. I now have 9400 miles on my 05 and it is reading on the computer at 36% used. I read that some change the filter at 10,000.

[DmaxMaverick]

I have a piece of fuel hose attached to the water drain. I place the hose into a container (usually an empty/dry water bottle), open the drain, then bleed screw (actually, I have a valve and tube at the bleeder I bought from Greg Landuyt at www.lubricationspecialist.com (http://www.lubricationspecialist.com) ), and drain most of the fuel. Close the drain, disconnect the WIF wire, strap wrench it off from the top, then take the filter out through the top. As long as the filter isn't tipped too much, no fuel will spill. Depending on model year, it may be easier to take it out through the wheel opening. Some folks go through the trouble of removing the wheel opening liner, but I don't unless I have another reason for it. Some even remove the battery, but that's too much hassle, IMO, especially with issues regarding side post batteries. I use petroleum jelly (Vaseline) on the O-rings. Before installing the new filter, I clean the water drain valve. It will sometimes get blocked with small particles, making the next change a pain. It's normal, just the filter doing its job.

Fuel won't damage the WIF sensor. Just clean it off with a plastic-friendly cleaner (or cloth if you don't mind residue) after it's installed onto the new filter. Be careful of the wire. It won't take much to break it. Mine broke off where it enters the sensor, too short to splice (repair in progress). The freezer bag trick may work for you, but I've never seen a need for it. Paint can liners have also been suggested. I usually get more onto the filter, than the filter gets on me, or the truck.

Also, don't pre-fill the filter. It's less messy, and the primer will fill it. You want to send only clean, filtered fuel to the engine. Pre-filling can, and usually does, contaminate the clean side of the filter with unfiltered fuel.

After the filter is replaced, and everything is tight, remove the bleed screw and pump the primer until fuel shows at the bleeder hole. You don't have to allow fuel to run out. Tighten the bleeder and pump the primer until hard. That's it. Any remaining air will work its way out. If it stalls, just pump it up again. If, at a later time, the engine stalls shortly after a cold start, the filter isn't sealed completely to the housing. If so, repeat the R/R procedure, making sure the O-ring (which has a habit of working out of the groove) is well seated, and the filter is tight. You can also use dielectric grease or petroleum jelly to help seal it up.

Now, about that fuel I drained into the water bottle....Once drained, I cap it off and set it on a stable surface so it won't be aggitated. By the time I'm finished with the filter replacement, any sediment and/or water will have separated from the fuel. It's good to note what going through the fuel system. I rarely have more than the slightest drop of water, and some very small particulate matter, both are normal. [I keep the drained fuel around for starting camp fires, and cleaning parts]

Have fun!

[cruzar]

I followed your instructions and was able to complete the change out. I am now a fuel filter change out expert. Thanks a bunch.

[DmaxMaverick]

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