Water Pumps under Warrant???

[BIGSTICK]

I am asking anyone who has had their water pump replaced under warranty to please respond. I have a 2003 2500HD D/A and it has 57,800 miles on it. I took it to the dealership to have the water pump replaced under the 100k mile motor warranty. The service manager fought with the district rep about replacing it but the rep said no b/c the motor warranty only covers internally lubricated parts. The manager aggrees with me that this is a gear driven pump and the gear is lubricated by motor oil, also the internals of the pump are lubricated by the antifreeze. GM wanted $786 to do a water pump job. I did it myself and it was a chore. The pumps are a GM only part the lists for $273 and our cost was $178. I got them down to $125 for the pump. I flushed it and replaced the thermostats while it was out. To do this job you have to pull the radiator, intercooler, and the harmonic balancer. Well enough with the whining I am just trying to find out if anyone has had their pumped replaced under warranty b/c the manager says if I can find someone that has and provide him with their name and VIN # that we can get GM to reimburse me for the job.
Thanks,
Randy

[More Power]

Though my 2001 GMC "Light Duty Truck Warranty and Owner Assistance Information" booklet says this about what IS covered by the 5/100K engine warranty.



The complete engine assembly, including turbocharger components, is covered for defects in materials or workmanship for 3 years or 36,000 miles, whichever comes first. No deductible applies during this coverage period. The engine parts listed below continue to be covered (subject to a $100 deductible) for 5 years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first.

* Cylinder block and heads and all internal parts, intake and exhaust manifolds, timing gears, timing gear chain or belt and cover, flywheel, harmonic balancer, valve covers, oil pan, oil pump, water pump, fuel pump, engine mounts, seals and gaskets.
* Diesel Fuel Metering system: injection pump, nozzles, high pressure lines and pressure sealing devices.
*Glow Plug Control SYstem: control/glow plug assembly, glow plugs, cold advance relay and ECM.

*Note: Some of the above components may also be covered by the emissions warranty with no deductible (see pages 21 through 24 for details).
MP

[madmatt]

the radiator and charge air cooler don't have to be removed for W/P replacement. It can easily be replaced w/ both in place. It is a time consuming job though either way.

[White Truck]

Have the district rep review the folowing SI document specifically including the water pump as a covered item for the 2003 model year. I don't see where you need any one's name and VIN, all they need to do is read what GM already states is a covered item, and then explain to you why they are doing something different. Sheesh.

Document ID# 835387

6.6L Duramax Diesel Engine Components
The complete engine assembly, including turbocharger components, is covered for defects in material or workmanship for 3 years or 36,000 miles, whichever comes first. No deductible applies during this coverage period. The engine parts listed below continue to be covered (subject to a $100 deductible) for 5 years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first.

Cylinder block and heads and all internal parts, intake and exhaust manifolds, timing gears, timing gear chain or belt and cover, flywheel, harmonic balancer, valve covers, oil pan, oil pump, water pump.......... :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

[BIGSTICK]

Thank you for the warranty information guys! I am going to fight it now. Madmatt yes you do have to remove the intercooler and radiator b/c the harmonic balancer has to be pulled and it is especially tight alo9ng with loc-tite on the threads. You can't break the bolt loose by hand even with a cheater pipe and hold the balancer from spinning. You have to use a 1/2" drive impact and you need the clearance to get that on. Also I would reccomend pulling them to protect them and have them flushed and tested while you are at it. I put a hole in my radiator b/c I first didn't remove it and slipped with a ratchet on the harmonic balancer. Fortunately I work in our family business which is RJR Radiator Inc.
Thanks again,
Randy
www.rjrradiator.com (http://www.rjrradiator.com)

[Jim Brzozowski]

Bigstick, sorry to hear about the water pump. So If GM is not going to replace it under the 100,000 mile warranty, that means you just keep driving it like nothing is wrong until the engine blows and then see what they replace? Is that what they want?

[Jim Brzozowski]

Opps, should have read further. Looks like it is covered under the DMAX warranty. These guys know their stuff, too bad the dealer didn't read that book.

[madmatt]

Bigstick,
I'm sorry, but your mistaken. The radiator and charge air cooler do NOT have to be removed. I've done several and never once removed them. Having the proper tools for the job always helps. simply install the J44643 flywheelholder and remove the bolt w/ a 3/4 drive rachet. Or I use a Cummins engine barring tool to hold the balancer while breaking the bolt loose. If you stilldon't believe me heres the correct procedure:

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.
Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the right fender wheelhouse panel. Refer to Wheelhouse Panel Replacement In Body Front End.
Remove the starter motor bolts and set aside. The wiring to the starter does not require removal.
Install J 44643 in order to lock the flywheel.
Lower the vehicle.
Remove the upper and lower fan shroud. Refer to Fan Shroud Replacement - Upper and Fan Shroud Replacement - Lower in Engine Cooling.
Remove the crankshaft balancer bolt.
Remove the crankshaft balancer. The balancer is a slip fit design and should slide off. If the balancer can be turned side to side the pin in the crankshaft is worn and the pin should be replaced.
If required, clean and inspect the balancer.

[dieseldog62]

Hey guys, I hate to tell you, but the water pump can be replaced without removing the balancer because I did it.It's been a while ,so I don't recall how I did it , but I do know I figured a way around it.

[HD=HossDiesel]

Well I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who is confused as to what the 100K warranty covers! Basically NOTHING! I had a loose wire on my #3 injector. Wire harness connects to end of injector and is secured in place by a 5/32 nut. Nut backed itself off in 56K miles and wire came loose causing engine to go into limp mode. Cost $800 not covered by warranty. Why so much? You have to pull Valve Covers in order to snug this nut up! 5.5hrs Labor! GM says its not their fault. I say who's is it then??? I've never had it apart! Why if this is so critical is it not Drilled and Pinned, Nylocked, or maybe just double nutted so it cant come loose. I've had calls in to the GM service line for 2 wks which they have'nt responded to yet. (after they took the initial complaint I waited one week called back rep told me 2-3 days he'd have an answer. Called again yesterday 7 days after last spoke to rep he's still working on it). And just so no one thinks I'm a basher. Hoss is a 3rd generation GM employee who has never owned or even test driven a vehicle that didn't come off a GM assembly line! I told my Dealer, Sales Rep and Customer Service Rep that they are going to make this right or my next truck WILL BE A FORD!

[More Power]

Hoss, Repairing/tightening a loose injector solenoid terminal IS covered by the engine warranty. A couple of years ago I helped an owner here get a reimbursement for just such a repair.

MP

[DmaxMaverick]

If nothing else, it would be covered by your 7/70 emission warranty. The Fed's make that rule, not GM. Just try to get an emission certification with the SES lit up. The vehicle manufacturer is required to make any repairs of the emission system, or related components (fuel injectors are included, by name, and not considered a "wear item"), other than customer caused damage, to keep the vehicle within the emission rating, during the warranty period.

At any time during your emission warranty period, with any vehicle, gas or Diesel, you can have a dealer perform an emission certification test to ensure it is still within the specification. If no problems are found, or the problem is a "wear item" and excluded from the list of covered parts, you will have to pay for the service. If a problem is found, the dealer is obligated to make repairs necessary to bring the vehicle into spec. The dealer has no way of denying your repair, under this obligation unless you or someone other than a GM dealer caused the nut to loosen. Ask your dealer how much "discretion" they have with EPA codes.

[HD=HossDiesel]

MP any info you could send me in regards to that previous matter which they agreed fix to would be a BIG help! My dealer doesn't really know that much about diesels. When the area rep talked to my service tech he asked if this was a common problem. The tech hadn't seen any others but when he spoke with the service dept at another dealer there tech said he had seen at least three others with the same problem. Even my service writer thought it was suspicious when he called detroit with the trouble codes and the Tech there told him right away what was wrong. I'm just fairly disappointed that its taken two weeks and I'm out 8 bills plus the cost of a rental for four days which they also won't cover. My rep at customer service has'nt called me back and does'nt answer when I call him. I left a message for him yesterday that I at least want a call to keep me posted on situation or Monday I will call to speak to a Manager. Any way if you have any information on the previous issue E-mail me at Hosanova@aol.com

Thanx, Hoss

[HD=HossDiesel]

Oh yeah one more question! Today I had my truck detailed and when I was looking at the valve covers to see which one they took apart. The drivers side appears to have a rubber Gasket. The other side (presumably the one they worked on) Has what appears to be silicone oozing out from under the Valve cover! I'm not so sure this is a good idea is it? Oh and I cant see the grey rubber gasket like I can on the other side so is the way this is fixed OK or NO?

[More Power]

About 2 years ago (can't remember the exact dates), Dmax Maverick was moving from AK to the lower 48. On the trip down, his truck began exhibiting symptoms discussed in a tech piece I did at about that time concerning "Cylinder Group Shut-Down", where either fuel injector group 2-3-5-8 or 1-4-6-7 are shut down to maintain a dynamic balance when a problem exists in one or the other cylinder group. This lets you limp into town with limited power.

Mav was partway across Canada when this happened to him. The local dealer repaired the truck, but charged him for the service. Mav was later reimbursed after I contacted GM Powertrain to get clarification on what was covered by the 5/100 warranty. In response to that incident, GMPT issued a directive to all Duramax servicing dealers in both the US & Canada regarding 5/100 warranty coverage.

By the way - the gray silicone sealer was used at the DMAX plant when the engine was first assembled. I haven't seen the rubber gasket you mentioned, but it must have been installed by your dealer.

MP

[HD=HossDiesel]

Thanx for the info MP if I get this settled I think I'll send some $ to the TDP for the help!LOL. I think the grey silicone gasket is the one I referred to as rubber. The material I think the dealer used is clear and looks like Silicone Caulk. In fact it looks like some one put it on with a caulk gun. Its not prefab like I assume a Valve cover gasket would be.

[meredith]

dieseldog62 I would like to know how you replaced the water pump w/out pulling the balancer. My Dad just got a 2001 with 117k on it and the water pump started leaking. Thanks for any help or advice. Meredith

[madmatt]

Hey HD! The lower valve cover should have the grey sealant and a thin rubber seal under it and the upper is supposed to have the grey assembly adhesive under and probably ozzing out around it. The ozzing is not a problem but i'd assume they substituted some clear RTV other then what GM specifies.

[ 04-23-2005, 01:13 PM: Message edited by: madmatt ]

[Diesel Dame]

Yes boys, I just had the repair done under warranty. I first took my 2001 into my machanic to check for coolant leak. He reported that the water pump was leaking and that it may be under warranty. I had him quote the repair price- $850. At that price it was worth a trip to the dreaded dealership, but not until after I called GM customer care to find out if it was covered. After being put on hold for 5 minutes they came back and said it was. I made my appointment, but only after I had contacted the parts dept to locate the water pump. It took them 3 weeks to get the part in, something about it being on national back order. They quoted on the initial write up a $1200 repair bill until I told them I was told by GM that it was a covered repair. They did not believe me and said they would have to check. 2 and 1/2 days later my truck was ready. They also replaced glow plug and fuelfilter housing/heater assy. My out of pocket..the $100 deductable.

[oyazi]

Originally posted by madmatt:
........Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.
Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the right fender wheelhouse panel. Refer to Wheelhouse Panel Replacement In Body Front End.
Remove the starter motor bolts and set aside. The wiring to the starter does not require removal.
Install J 44643 in order to lock the flywheel.
Lower the vehicle.
Remove the upper and lower fan shroud. Refer to Fan Shroud Replacement - Upper and Fan Shroud Replacement - Lower in Engine Cooling.
Remove the crankshaft balancer bolt.
Remove the crankshaft balancer. ........ W/exception to specic ref of the 'J 44643' ~ virtually verbatim of what was on my w/o. FWIW ~ the replacement pump doesn't have a weephole.