Fuel Filter

[moose1]

I,m new to my 95 6.5td, and am about to change the fuel filter, and am looking for helpfull hints.

[sturgeon-phish]

Make sure you align the key way, don't loose the little screen, and don't forget the gasket.

[moose1]

I looked at the owner manuel (da) and found instalation instructions. It was easy but I saw crap in the bottom of the bowl. Do I have to unbolt the filter bracket to get rid of the stuff in the bottom of the bowl. Should I install another fuel filter system?

[charliepeterson]

After the filter is seated, place a vacuum hose over the small nipple on the top of the filter. With the other end in a small bucket crack open the round cap the vacuum hose is on.
Put the truck is drive and hold the key switch in the start position untill fuel comes pouring out the vacuum hose into the bucket. Shut off the truck. This bleeds all the air out of the filter.
Remove the vacuum hose and close tightly the cap it was on.
Your DONE!
Check for leaks and do this again in 15K miles or so.

[moose1]

I opened the valve on the front of the engine and ran fuel through a bleeder line untill it was consistent with no air. Your discription sounds similar. Did I already flush out the crap, or should I follow your instruction. A vacuum hose?

[tom.mcinerney]

Hint-Always follow Charlie's instructions! You drained the crap from the BASE of the cannister, through the drain hose-to-valve-up-front by thermo hsg/alternator.
Charlie was advising to BLEED the air from the housing by pumping fuel into it while the drain on the TOP of the filter is open, draining through a hose to a container beneath.
For relevant discussion do search in Duramax section of forum concerning fuel filtration...

[moose1]

Thanks

[ucdavis]

Moose,
I think the crap is still in the bowl; could be in the filter or flushed, but bleed volume is low & not like a real "flush". Fuel enters base of unit & flows thru filter then screen to center hub & out to IP, then either to injectors or back from IP to tank (coolant for IP/FSD). The drain you used is at the bottom of the bowl, so some junk might be flushed, but I suspect most stayed.
Best method is to mop out bowl B4 putting new filter in. This means more air bleed, but gets the junk for sure.
BTW, I'm not sure you've actual bled all the air. Drain is @ bottom of bowl, so air could easily still be trapped in upper part. This could get sucked into IP on high acceleration & cause rough running (intermittent fuel delivery).
Some put vacuum tube on old filter, open water bleed valve & blow into vacuum tube to push filter contents out the water bleed, then open filter bowl, pull old filter, mop out, new filter, close, bleed & go. Less contents to mop.

[morgan]

I have not been following this filter change, bowl drain, and bleeding exactly as Charlie said. I am afraid that something has gotten mixed up in the bowl, on the "clean" side of the new filter, and then into the injection pump.

My truck runs great, with plenty of power, but I am having the typical stall problems that we've talked about before. Would a small piece of junk warrant a new/rebuilt pump, or is there a fuel additive that can help? I use Power Service Diesel Kleen in every new tankload now.

[moose1]

Thanks UCDAVIS, that is what I had though when I first saw the accumulation in the bottom of the bowl but hesitated becuase I am unfamiliar with changing the filter. I'll pull the filter out again and see if the crap is still there and if so I'll soak out the remaining fuel and wipe out the bowl.

[ucdavis]

Morgan,
Inlet barb on IP screws into a sort of passive valve (think its a check valve) that ends in a fine SS screen, so there is one last line of defense against having to rebuild the IP due to poisoning it w/junk. If I suspected this I'd clean thoroughly around barb, back it out of pump (I think the valve comes w/it), disassemble the valve & clean thoroughly, reinstall, air-bleed the IP (run lift pump w/key on, engine off), then test drive. If you find nothing in the screen, then that's not the problem & you should run the checklist at http://www.thedieselpage.com/members/tt99-9.htm
The 6.2L/6.5L Diesel Page, Turbo Tips
Good luck. BTW, a good fuel additive is important if you think you have marginal fuel, and many swear by them under all conditions.

[jb carver]

i have found a small screen in the bottom of the housing after changeing filter and cant figure out how it gos back in.

[tom.mcinerney]

JB: There's a pair of coaxial SS tubes(around 5/8"-3/4" diameter) sticking up into middle of fuel conditioner (filter assembly). There is supposed to be a little cylindrical nylon filter screen assembly that snugly slides down over the longer smaller tube and seats on the top edge of the larger, shorter tube. The filter has a top(small id) and bottom. Sometimes when removing a fuel filter element a screen comes out with it?? Sometimes new screens come in/with new filter elements?? There's only room for one screen on the tubes; if it's not right, the filter doesn't work right.

[BigMikeO]

I just replaced the Fuel filter for the first time last week and it was about as black as the gasket that was on the new one. Also, I didn't see any tubes or screens in there. it was just a filter that I stuffed into basically a bucket with a hole in the bottom. would this be bad?

[slagona]

Big Mike,

There should be a tube in the middle of the filter assembly, not just a hole in the assembly. If you don't have the tube, yes it could be bad - hard to say. Having the tube helps keep the unfiltered fuel from entering the IP - especially when changing filters.

I have several extra assemblies lying around, and just happen to be passing through Amherst (or Lockport) at about 2am on Thursday Morning (10/30/2003) - pulling a 8K lb trailer from MI to NY to FL to MI. If you'd like to pick up an assembly along my route, let me know by 2pm on 10/29.

BTW, I lived in Amherst for 6 years while attending UB - great place!

--Scott
swlag@joimail.com