OEM Racor Filter Failures?

[56Nomad]

In light of what a bear and mdrag have now documented,
I recommend we keep on open thread on OEM filter failures.

It would be pretty simple.... anytime one of us changes out
the OEM Racor fuel filter, just cut it open and give us a report
and pictures if possible.

As of this date TDP has 10072 members, so we should be able
to see if this is a valid issue. I suspect that
failure is not too frequent.

Coming soon.....

My bro-in-law's D/A is approaching 30,000 (29,750) miles.
At 20,000 miles we installed a pre-OEM frame mounted filter
and he has never changed the OEM filter since
he purchased the truck.


Very shortly he will be changing out both of them. I stand
ready to go over to his house when he removes them, so we can
cut them open and photo them.

[ 08-12-2003, 03:15 PM: Message edited by: 56Nomad ]

[J Dawson]

I'v cut all of my filters open and none of them were falling apart. I just added a Racor 660 2 micron filter post oem. I mounted mine on the passenger side firewall next to the airconditioning line and above the factory filter. I used a petcock as a purge valve as you did. That was a very good idea.

[Idle_Chatter]

I've put on 4 OEM filters and have cut open and photographed the last 3 which appear in my PICS link below. I have had no problems with the integrity of the internals on any of my filters to date.

[J Dawson]

I'll have my wife take some pictures and post them when they are developed. What letter from GM are you refering to?

[56Nomad]

I believe some of us have gotten a letter from GM
advising that we need to show proof of filter change
at 15,000 miles for extended warrenty on injectors.....
I didn't get the letter yet.

Could someone post that letter or put a copy
at a personal website? Thanks.

[ 08-12-2003, 03:20 PM: Message edited by: 56Nomad ]

[MadDuraMax]

Nomad,

Since you've got the picture posting thing down, zap me your email address and I'll send you a Jpeg of card I got.

[ 08-13-2003, 05:02 PM: Message edited by: MadDuraMax ]

[OC_DMAX]

Over the last year and a half, I have changed out three fuel filters. Have cut them all open, more out of curiosity than anything else. Today, I checked the bottom metal plate on all three filters. Each metal plate is solidly attached to the filter media.

[a bear]

With the slim posibility this would happen again I supose I could keep it as a decent pre filter with a good water trap/indicator. :eek: Hopefully Nomad's survey will not yield any more. smile.gif

[Turbo Al]

I am on my third fuel filter (just installed) the first one I still have intact -- keeping for spare with 5,000 miles on it. The second one I removed with 20,000 miles on it and although very dirty it was completely intact when I cut it open. -- Sorry didn't take pics before I threw it out. I will be changing them at appox. 15,000 miles from this point forward.

[ram/tx]

Just changed my fuel filter out, it had 14,687 miles on it and I cut it open. The bottom 1/3 of the filter was dark and it had two light dark strips going all the way to the top of the filter on opposite sides of each other. Don't know what causes that. The rest of the filter was still white. The bottom metal part was still attached to the filter. Did not have any water in the bottom of it. Does anyone know what would cause the two light dark strips going up the side of the filter?

[Jelisfc]

My first filter was changed at 15K and looks the same as what Ram/Tx described. I still have it and the steel plate is rock solid.

If GM sent a letter they are probably on the same schedule as the trailer wiring harness. 8 months after I buy the truck I get the letter saying you can;t transfer 01/02 harnesses to an 03. :rolleyes:

[OC_DMAX]

ram/tx,

From what I have seen with my three filters and from pictures that others have posted, the conditions that you describe are similar. There are two vertical discolorations of the filter media and then a lower portion of the media is completely discolored horizontally. The more miles on the filter and/or the dirtier the pump fuel the higher the horizontal discoloration.

If you look closely at the plastic filter top, there are two groups of approximately 6 small 1/8 inch holes on the outer edge. The fuel goes through this holes and runs down the side of the filter media. Some of the fuel gets sucked through the media and into the center at this point. Thus the two vertical discolorations. The remaining fuel ends up on the bottom of the filter. That portion of fuel on the bottom then gets pulled through the filter media by the vacuum. As the filter media becomes used, it presents more resistance to the fuel flow, so the fuel takes the least resistive path up higher in the filter media. Thus a rising (with more miles) horizontal discoloration ring.

There was an article posted by someone here that described how fuel filters work under vacuum. That article described exactly what we are seeing on our stock DMAX fuel systems (ie. the fuel filter is partially filled on the dirty side). The approach that abear, jbplock and others have taken is to pressurize the fuel system. Under these conditions, the fuel flows through all the media all the time. Intuitively, one would say this is more efficient. Look at the pictures abear has posted and you will see his filter is completely used.

The above is how I have rationalized in my mind how the fuel filter system works. Hope its correct and looking for comments if its not!

Regards,
Alan

[roegs]

With all these OEM filter discussions, has anyone heard if GM will make any filter changes on the '04 upgraded DMAX? I had wanted to post the question to the Racor rep that used to frequent the forum, but it appears that he has not been around for a few months. I think it would be great if they were to come out with an upgraded filter that would work on our existing systems. I know the chances are slim..just wishful thinking! :cool:

[a bear]

Alan,
Well explained. My theory is that while on vacumn the outgassing causes dirty side vapor and the fuel level to establish itself at the bottom of the element and the vertical black marks below the holes are where the fuel is running down the sides to reach the established level. Again as the filter plugs the level moves higher to the point of least resistance. I will be sending a partially used filter with no vac via the lift pump to mdrag for one of his highly reguarded inspestions. This should tell us a lot as to what is going on in there. smile.gif

[HD-Nate]

OK, cutting the filters open and posting shots of them sounds like a good idea. I will start after I replace mine this weekend.

What is a good way to cut them, other than buying a dedicated filter cutting device? ? Or do they make an inexpensive dedicated cutter?

Seems like a band saw would be a big mess and skew the results of metal findings in the filters.

Hints?? Tips??

Thanks,
Nathan

[a bear]

Nathan,
I have been using a Dremel tool with the metal cutting wheels. There is a small amount of metal that goes in there but I just look past it as it's not fuel related. Works good but I am also game for a better way if one comes fourth. Can't seem to find a cutter for a cost I can justify.

[Idle_Chatter]

I've been using the el-cheapo chain cutter that you see in my first filter picture. I think I paid about $4 for it at Autozone. I also used it to cut out my factory muffler and trim the adapter pieces when I installed my Magnaflow muffer, so it's been $4 well spent. :D It is a lot of work for cutting a filter open, though. I put the filter top down on a bench corner, let the chain lie on bench top and alternately rotate the filter and wrench in about 1/8 turns. You have to make a lot of passes to slowly tension the chain and get cut through without buckling the filter housing (which stops the whole process) :( After a bit of patience and a lot of rotating, the can will usually cut cleanly through about 300 degrees and the last web can be "flexed" to break or cut with a small hacksaw blade handle. I get a little white paint flakage, but no metal or other junk in the separated filter. smile.gif

[mdrag]

I cut open the first few filters using a variety of home brew methods - too time consuming and I value my fingers too much :eek:

The AIRWOLF FILTER CUTTERS (http://www.airwolf.com) are extremely well made and work very well - but $$$ and you need both sizes to cut open the various Dmax filters...and even the largest Airwolf cutter will not handle the KD Mega.

The Tavia 8340 pictured in my post above will handle filter sizes up to 5 1/2" diameter (the KD Mega is about 5 3/8"). It should be able to take care of all Dmax filter inspection - although I have not verified that it will work on the small Allison spin on filter (it should). IMHO, the Tavia is not as well made as the Airwolf offering, but it is a good quality tool that should last for years - and the cutting wheel is replacable. I found the Tavia 8340 for $69.99 at PitStopUSA.com (http://www.pitstopusa.com/OILSYSTEMTOOLS.asp) and $70.99 at SummitRacing.com (http://store.summitracing.com/product.asp?d=14&s=251&p=5148&searchtype=ecat).

[jbplock]

I use a 3" cut-off disk on my die grinder... It works OK but now that I've seen Mdrag's tool I've got to have one like his ... :cool:

[a bear]

Now thats not bad! :D

[mdrag]

I meant to add that the key to using these cutters is to SLOWLY increase the pressure on the cutting wheel, and then make multiple passes around the filter. I would estimate that I made at least 20 revolutions with the cutter to open the Mega, and the cut edges were very clean, similar to using a pipe cutter.

You may find that removing the rubber circular gasket (if present) on the filters moves the cut closer to the base of the filter - with less distortion of the cut. I removed the large rubber gasket on the Mega, and the cut was even with the top of the thick filter base. If I had forced the cutter in too quickly, the cutting wheel would have been toast...

mdrag

[MadDuraMax]

Nomad,

You've got mail.

Mark

[ram/tx]

Alan and a-bear, thanks for the lesson on fuel filters, it makes sense now about the two stripes.
I cut my filters open with the Dremel Tool and the metal cutting wheels. Takes about two minutes and about three metal cutting wheels. Hope to add a post filter one day, but am afraid of the air and stall and not starting without primeing issue. Havn't read anywhere here lately, but has that problem been solved with the mega filter John sells? Don't really want to add a pump to the system.

[MadDuraMax]

Sorry for off topic too, here's a try at this:

http://mail.chartermi.net/~mark356/GoodGMCCard1.jpg

Mark

[a bear]

John,
Is this the dealership where you purchased the truck. Doesn't apear to be an official GM letter.
Looks like a dealer trying to con up some buisness.

[MadDuraMax]

Card is from my selling dealer, it may be a come on or??? I'm having it checked out by the "other" dealer in GR (Dmaxallitech).

Again, sorry for being off topic, but I think this is very relevent to our fuel filtration issues if it is ligitimate.

Mark

[a bear]

Thanks Mark smile.gif

[conradv]

Since I've had my Dmax since November, and now have 25,000 miles on it, there's NO WAY that GM could hold me to the "GM will require proof of a FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT every 15,000 miles" since I've never been informed of this.

Granted, I DID change my filter at about 14,300 miles, but I don't have the receipt for the filter, nor the filter itself. Sounds goofy to me.

So does writing it in my owner's manual constitute "proof"? ;)