No Crank on 99 Burb

[332bill]

My 99 burb had been running great until yesterday. My wife went out to start it and all system lights would work, the glow plugs will light, but when you turn the key to start, nothing happens, no click, no nothing. I have been following the diagnostic procedure in the GM shop manual and one of the tests is to jumper cavity 30 and 87 in the starter relay socket. This will complete the solenoid circuit. The procedure asks if the solenod clicks when the sockets are jumpered. When I jumper the two sockets, not only does it click, but the engine cranks. Should it do this?

Bill

[rjschoolcraft]

I've had this problem several times. It usually ends up being corroded battery connections. I have had to replace the starter a couple of times, but since you are cranking when jumping, yours is probably OK. I'd clean all the battery connections thoroughly and see if that fixes it.

[GMC Hauler]

I recently had a no start condition....

What you just did was provide 12 volt power to the starter solenoid. Since your engie cranks, that means everything from the relay center to the starter works. The ignition switch provides power to that relay's coil.

First thing, swap that relay with another in the underhood fuse center and see if that works.

Second thing, use a multimeter or a 12 volt test light, and check the input to that relay (it is the conector in that relay socket that recieves 12 volt from the ignition switch, and provides 12 volts to the coil of the relay. Hook up the multimeter or light, and turn the key to start. if you see no voltage, then either your interconecting wiring or your ignition switch is suspect.

Hope this helps.....

[332bill]

I think I found the problem. The genius that installed the engine/trans in Mexico pinched the transmission wiring harness between the transmission/fuel lines and a sharp body seam in the transmission tunnel. Over time it ate through the protective cover and into the wires. The wire for the neutral safety switch is all the way through. Several others are exposed but not worn through. What is the best way to repair the wires? I doubt if there is enough slack to just pull the ends together. Should I use a crimp connector or solder? I will definately use shrink tubes. I have another question too. Why are the connectors to the neutral safety switch on the tranny epoxied on? My shop manual warned against trying to disconnect them as you may damage the switch. But I had no choice because I had to pull the whole harness out too have access for repair.

Bill

[Dimsdale]

It's deja vu all over again!

As I have indicated in a few different places in this forum, the exact same thing (harness crush) happened to my truck, and my 'burb was also built in Mexico in 99! I hope that guy is off the line!

Make sure that all the wires are intact and fully insulated. I had one hell of a time getting that diagnosed and the harness had to be spliced to repair it. Runs great now.

Anyone else have this or a related problem?

[Dimsdale]

I forgot: the dealer repaired it with a "splice kit" whatever that means in dealerspeak. That makes me wonder if it is a more common problem than GM is letting on. I tried to get it covered with the emissions warranty, which specifically said that "wiring" was covered, but the woman at GM was not going to budge on it, so I ate the cost.

All in all, it took enough diagnosis time and effort to cost me about $600 to fix it, but I was getting a lot of "limp mode" frem the tranny, and was desperate to fix the problem, hence the dealer. I believe that cost included several solenoids and a replacement harness plug that had nothing to do with the final repair.

[332bill]

Until Tuesday I never experienced any problems and at least 4 if not 5 wires have the insulation worn off. I guess they never made good enough contact on the body seam to short out. Thank God it just happened to die at home and not somewhere else where I would need a tow.

Since Dimsdale also had this problem, It may not be a bad idea for you guys to check your truck for the same thing. It could be a nasty problem.

Bill

[332bill]

Finished with the wire repair this afternoon. I had six wires that had copper exposed. I spliced 5 as they were at least 1/2 worn through and a couple were all the way. I soldered them all and used shrink tubes. All the wires were oxidized on the outside so I had to clean that off before soldering. Tarnex worked good and then I used a little fine steel wool. Started up and ran great.

Bill