Kennedy headlight system

[DURA-MAX3]

What is this system and what exactly does it do. How much does it cost and how hard to install, thanks...

[NJDMAX]

Dura-max3,
The harness allows the use of higher wattage bulbs(without the chance of damaging the headlight switch),and also allows the low beams to stay on with the high beams.The harness has two relays the are wired to your alternator,which almost eliminates any voltage drop.The result is brighter and whiter lights.The harness took me approx.30 minutes to install,I fix cars for a living so it may take you longer. The harness is GREAT. Call Kennedy (715) 255-9433 for the price,I forget what I paid for it. I picked up two harnesses-one for me and one for my father in-law,He loves it also. Hope this helps.
Tom

[DURA-MAX3]

Thanks NJDMAX i will call the first chance i get...

[NJDMAX]

Dura-max3,
I forgot one other thing about the install,make sure your grounds are VERY good.Thats the other key to this harness working so well.
Tom

[IndigoDually]

Also make sure that you put the diode in oriented correctly for "ground side switching".

Otherwise I love it and I got the 70 watt lows and the 100 watt highs.

John

[FirstDiesel]

I put one in the other night and kept the stock bulbs. Still made a huge difference.

I do have a question for the electronic gurus or JK though. If I'm correct this harness is using the old connectors to control the relays and the relays are switching power from the battery to provide better voltage to the headlights. If this is the case then the switching side of the harness is fused through the stock headlight fuses. I didn't see any fusing for the power side of the harness though?? Shouldn't there have a been a fuse installed in the harness so if there is a short you don't melt it down??

[NJDMAX]

Firstdiesel,
You are correct,the harness uses the factory wiring from one side of the truck to control the hi/low beams. If you look at your harness close to the B+ connection(the ring terminal at the Alt.) it has a what looks like a fusible link soldered in line (from the ring terminal,then the link,and then wire going to the relay's).A fusible link looks like wire but burns apart inside of the insulation if overloaded or shorted.Hope this helps.
Tom

[FirstDiesel]

I didn't notice that. I wonder why a fuseable link was used in place of a replaceable fuse in a socket.

Thanks for the info, I'll sleep better tonight knowing my headlights will not burst into flames. smile.gif

[NJDMAX]

Firstdiesel,
The fusible link works just as well as a plug in type fuse. A fusible link has less resistance if it is crimped and soldered in line,then a plug in type fuse,which can fall out of the socket(been there/done that)at the worst time possible.Just remember the lower the resistance in the whole circuit the more voltage(less voltage drop) to the bulb(brighter).
Tom
P.S.- the fusible link looks just like a piece of wire(it's black on my harness then changes to red wire)

[ 07-07-2002: Message edited by: NJDMAX ]</p>

[FirstDiesel]

I understand that but fuseable links are not "user" serviceable on the side of the road either. When was the last time you walked into PEP Boys and saw fuseable links on the rack next to the regular fuses. Not to mention the tools you need to replace it when your miles from home. Granted if it blows your likely to be tracing other problems first but there is always comfort in being able to pop in a new fuse and see what happens.

[odoh]

I've always seen the fusible link as a manufacturing expedient (cost/production). While parts discount houses DO have them next to the other fuses, they're generally specific for a particular application. ~ odoh

[Kennedy]

Clean, neat, inexpensive, AND slow to blow...

A self resetting breaker could be used at additional cost AND bulk...

Headlights are not fused because an instantaneous overload could make things go dark in a hurry :eek: