View Full Version : Filter Change on Duramax
smartfix
07-26-2003, 12:43
Hello all
I know this was asked 100 times before.. I can't find info on the best way to change fuel filter or pictures.. The OEM one 2003.. How in the world do you get to it.. I hope we don't have to pull the finder liner out.. I have bad luck breaking the clips
From steve :confused:
Either by removing the fender liner and going from the bottom, or from the top without removing the fender liner. You may be able to pull out far enough to get at the filter from the bottom without having to remove the clips. I do mine from the top but I've got an 02 so your ac lines may or may not be in the way.
White Knight
07-26-2003, 14:59
I also have a 2002. I did my first fuel filter change from the bottom by removing the finder liner. I did my second from the top. Only problem I had from the top was that when I removed the old filter a plastic piece stayed in the housing. At first I didn't notice that it did not come out with the filter. After I removed it, things went smoothly. I plan on doing mine from the top the next time. As someone on the list said earlier, you need to know how to do it from the top in case you have a problem on the road. I am pretty tall, and still found a stool to be a big help in installing the new filter.
Remember, don't get diesel fuel on your frame. It removes the was rust protector. Also, a little grease will help hold the o-rings in place while installing the filter.
I have some instructions posted by members earlier. If you would like a copy, post your e-mail address.
hapaschold
07-26-2003, 15:11
i just go thru the fender liner, pull it down in the middle. about 10, 15 minutes to complete.
then let the fender liner pop back into place. clips broke the first time, but it stays in place without them.
Just changed mine on a 2003 and the only way I found that I could do it was to remove part of the fender liner. Used 2 small screw drivers to open the fender liner clips. Pain in the butt process.
Joe Pool
07-26-2003, 16:05
I found that on my '02 it easier to change if I remove the passenger side battery first. This gives you more working room from the top.
Just my $.02
Joe
smartfix
07-26-2003, 16:10
hello all
I just dont get it why in the world do they make it so hard to change. when you have to change it around 5,000 or so.. I would like to do it every 3000 miles
when we do our oil. Because of the heat in so fl and
idel time.. Can the clips be ordered.
Also How Do you Drain this filter.. From the White
piece on the Bottom.. even thats hard to reach
From steve
South FL
15,000 MI is what the book says for replacement on the 02.
dmaxalliTech
07-26-2003, 18:20
Flat rate mechanic here.... 03 gets changed from the top with out removing anything...no wheel well liner, battery or otherwise, sometimes the a/c lines get repositioned slightly, but all from the top non-the-less.
Dmax - regarding changing the fuel filter from the top - after removing the sensor wires is all I need is a filter wrench that will fit to remove it? Thanks - Murf
ps did you find out weather or not you can get the 75-140 rear end fluid - been busy and haven't been able to call - selling the house and closing the business down, getting ready to go full timin for a year or so -
Jeep Puller
07-26-2003, 21:22
White Knight - I'd like those instructions you mentioned.
My email is jashuck*AT*gcctv.com
Thanx in advance.
Here is another link that you may be interested in. It discusses a number of ways to change the filer. Gotta admit that none of them sound all that easy to do on the side of the road... :confused:
http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=005612
Lone Eagle
07-27-2003, 11:44
I haven't heard of anyone changing a filter along the side of the road. Changing it on schedule in the garage will prevent that. GM did not design the filter to be changed by shade tree mechanics. After I loosen the filter and unhook the sensor wire, I slide a one gallon bag up around it. Later! Lone Eagle :D
JustWondering
07-27-2003, 12:38
I normally remove the passenger side battery (very easy to do) for better access. Make sure that you use some kind of container to catch any fuel that may drip or spill. Otherwise, like White Knight said, the fuel will disolve the frame coating.
It happened to me, now I have a rust spot on the frame directly below the filter. What is everybody using to re-coat the frame when boo-boo's like this happen?
smartfix
07-27-2003, 17:04
Hello all
Looking at the filter tonight.. The wires on the bottom of the filter unit do they just pull off the filter or is there a clip to undo it.. Also if the white piece breaks does the new filter come with one on it.. Or do you have to buy a new one at GM.. Reason why i'm asking so much on this truck.. Were going to add 12 units to our fleet next month.. My shop guys are great on the powerstroke .. but need to learn this 6.6 Duramax ...
From steve :rolleyes:
White Knight
07-27-2003, 18:49
Smartfix, you asked; "The wires on the bottom of the filter unit do they just pull off the filter or is there a clip to undo it.. Also if the white piece breaks does the new filter come with one on it.. Or do you have to buy a new one at GM."
The wires disconnect a few inches from the bottom of the filter at a connector in the harness. The "white piece" unscrews from the bottom of the fuel filter and does not come with the new filter. You unscrew it after removing the filter and re-install it on the new filter. I have been meaning to check with the General to see about getting a spare. I have been concerned that I may break a wire off the "white piece".
Gasman1075
07-28-2003, 19:36
Changed my fuel filter yesterday and the job went real good until I tried to put the filter wrench on and it would not open far enough. So there sat. the truck with the fender liner part way out and the fuel drained out of the filter while I ran over to a friends house to get a chain wrench. Is there a band type filter wrench that will work?
Thanks
Walt :confused:
Did my '03 last week. I removed the whole filter assembly. I didn't have a filter wrench big enough. Unhook all the wires. I replaced the screw on the ground wire so it didn't get lost. Undo the clamps. Slide off the hoses and two screws later the whole thing is out. I didn't even drain it just be careful to keep it turned with the steel lines up. A little cussing to get the hoses off but well worth the effort. I also replaced the clamps with worm clamps. Much easier to tighten. I got the filter off by hand. I can see how people can get an o-ring cocked on these things.
I have put 7 filters on my 2001 and I have not went thru all the crap you people are describing. All it takes is patience and 1 strong hand plus a strap wrench.
stutzismydog
07-29-2003, 18:17
It is much easier to do the fuel filter change on the 2001 than on the new 2003 because the AC lines are in the way,....placed there by some sick minded GM engineer to just Pi$$ all of us 2003 owners off.
dmaxalliTech
07-29-2003, 19:18
Originally posted by Murf:
Dmax - regarding changing the fuel filter from the top - after removing the sensor wires is all I need is a filter wrench that will fit to remove it? Thanks - Murf
ps did you find out weather or not you can get the 75-140 rear end fluid - been busy and haven't been able to call - selling the house and closing the business down, getting ready to go full timin for a year or so - Yes, I also think Jelisfc has a good point by removing the whole housing, that would make things easy also, its just two bolts.
As far as the fluid, I forgot, making note right now and I will find out for you. If your goin full timing and in MI, stop in .
Joe G.
If you ever had to change a filter in an '03 you would know why we go through the hassle. GM moved the AC lines on the 03's and positioned them right in the way. Sure I could get the filter squeezed through them by bending them, but would rather not pour fuel all over everything. I figure it's faster to pop the inner fender cover off than clean up fuel spills.
The use of rivnuts, makes the removal easy and fast.
Allison Jettester
07-30-2003, 08:40
For those who like to take the fender liner (or other parts) off.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=46024
Originally posted by Joe.G:
I have put 7 filters on my 2001 and I have not went thru all the crap you people are describing. All it takes is patience and 1 strong hand plus a strap wrench. Then you obviously have never done an
Thanks for the info, sure glad I don't own a 2003, I probably would have had a stroke by this time. I had 1 filter change that didn't go smooth and had me saying things that you folks would find familiar. I have pulled the fender liner one time but that was to install my gauges and Banks exhaust, it's no big deal just didn't like the hassle. Maybe things will get better on the newer models(I hope!).
smartfix
07-30-2003, 18:15
Go with the Riv Nuts or Zues
Hello all
I don't want to sound real dum now.. Never had to this on our PSD..
Where do you get the Riv nuts and tools to install them.. I'm only going to use this tool 1 time i guess.. What are Zues.. Can some people take pictures of pulling of the finder.. and doing the hole Job .. BTW When i spoke to Recor today they told
us the filter in our trucks are 2 Mircon
From steve
Steve,
Don't know about "Zues" (other than Greek mythology :D ) but Checkout this thread... RivNuts (http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=005686). Also see Hoot's rivnut link above.
If you buy a RivNut tool, get a good one. I started out with a cheap one from JC Whitney that was junk. After installing the rivnuts on my fender liner it was bent. I ended up buying a professional quality Marson (http://www.marsoncorp.com/hand_rivet_tools.htm) tool from a local fastener supplier (about $75 IIRC) that works much better and will last. (I believe JCW also sells the Marson tool).
Regarding the OEM RACOR being 2u .... Consensus here is that it's not 2u absolute ... It will stop some 2u stuff but how much? ... it's a question of efficiency... even a window screen will stop some 2u particles... Do a forum search on fuel filters for more info ...this subject has been discussed in MUCH detail smile.gif
[ 07-31-2003, 06:12 AM: Message edited by: jbplock ]
Idle_Chatter
07-31-2003, 06:21
I think he means "Dzus" when saying "zues" these are the precision pop-up button fasteners used extensively in aircraft and racing. I looked into them, but they require a lot of back clearance, are not easily installed from one side and are very expensive. I used a Harbor Freight Tools "cheapie" tool that came with the riv-nuts for $39.99. So far has been good for me.
Tom,
From the picture the Harbor Frieght tool looks like the Marson tool with a cast head - good. The problem with the cheap one I bought was that the head was made from stamped sheet metal and ended up bending out of shape. I would stay away from these types as they can't take the force needed for a 1/4" Rivnut. They are OK for the smaller sizes (#6,8,10) but not 1/4". smile.gif
Wouldn't it be possible to install rivnuts with a screw and a combination of nuts and washers like a jack screw?
:rolleyes: OK my duh, it is Dzus fastners not Zues.
They are available through most performance automotive catalogs, not THAT expensive and work great. We use them on 4 wheelers that take a lot of pounding and they hold up great.
I work in the aircraft industry and the Dzus fasteners are common place around here.
Here is a website to look at if you are interested. They make clips that need very little backspacing.
http://www.dzus.co.uk/products_catalogue.htm
Idle_Chatter
07-31-2003, 08:53
I wouldn't want to try it, Hoot. The rivnut "upsets" with a relatively short burst of pull, sort of like a pop-rivet. Also, the aluminum threads on the rivnut interior will pull out if too much force is applied (believe me, I gave one of mine a "little extra" and whoops! - it was bear to drill out and replace!) I'd hate to be fumbling around with a wrench and washers and trying to keep the rivnut from spinning while trying to insert one without a tool! :(
svpdiesel
07-31-2003, 09:00
Hoot- yeah that works. Use a gr8 bolt and zero-clearance washer and hp grease on the threads, or it'll break after 2-3 cycles. Much more labor-intensive, but a lot cheaper than the tool. :cool:
I bought the better of the two rivnut tools sold by Harbor Freight. The tool is pure junk. Part of the metal used is so soft that the tool started to deform when installing the correct head. Then while installing the forth rivnut, the main fulcrum, being brittle, snapped inhalf cutting my hand.
Save yourself some trouble, get a good tool. I highly recommend the Marson. I also bought the Marson from a local tool supplier.
Hoot, that's how I did it, works great and cheap. I used a 1/4" thread allen screw and a long oversized nut and a washer.
I figured this would be the only time I would install rivnuts and didn't want to spend the money on a one-time use tool.
smartfix
07-31-2003, 19:40
Hello all
Got a call from our Dealer today about this fuel filter Change out deal.. He told me GM just came out with this new tool to grab the filter from the top
He ask me to come down to see how its done on a shop
truck.. with his Diesel service tech.. Going Down when we get back in to town in 1 week.. Well let you know the part number>> Just a note he did tell me some of his guys use to pull out the battery to do this jub Quote::::::
From steve
Originally posted by Lone Eagle:
I haven't heard of anyone changing a filter along the side of the road. Changing it on schedule in the garage will prevent that. GM did not design the filter to be changed by shade tree mechanics. After I loosen the filter and unhook the sensor wire, I slide a one gallon bag up around it. Later! Lone Eagle :D Lone Eagle - When you are 500 miles from home pulling a 34' trailer and you get a bad load of fuel and your filter glops up 20 miles from nowhere on Sunday morning in the rain, you will be glad you know how to change a filter along side of the road. It happened to me and I did. Glad the guys on the Diesel page convinced me to carry a spare (and a spare bleeder valve). dlp
I found a hand tool to install RivNuts in the wheelwell liner. I've inquired about price for anyone interested. I'll post the results as soon as I get them.
C845
http://www.bollhoff-rivnut.com/0ad17560.jpg
[ 08-01-2003, 10:59 AM: Message edited by: hoot ]
Tool is $35 and they will throw in a handfull of rivnuts.
N. American Engineering Sales
cseidell@naesc.com
http://www.naesc.com/pages/807450/index.htm
Not to change the subject or anything, but to get back to the original question- :D Smartfix.. don't overlook the bleeder screw on top of the filter to relieve some pressure before you loosen the filter. I'm another one who removes the battery-just to get enough room to turn the strap wrench.
zip
Which post got off the subject?
smartfix
08-02-2003, 12:43
Hello all
I forgot to ask .. Does anyone us the wix fuel filter to replace the Oem one.. Anyone know if the Wix unit is 2 mircon
From steve
Jim Cobler
08-02-2003, 13:45
My 2001 has clogged filters far more frequently than I think it should. I buy all fuel from truck stops and still lost one filter in less than 4,000 miles. They never happen at a good time. My last one was in over 100 degree heat.
My advice for the 01's, at least, is make sure you have something to stand on and I am 6' but with out a plastic milk crate I could not have done it.
For you first timers, the wire at the bottom unplugs a few inches from the filter. I had to push on the side of the clip to get it to separate. You can't see very well down there but there is a wire support which I had to open a little to get the wire free. Use a strap wrench with a nylon web (NAPA $8.00) and a 1/2" drive ratchet with exension.
Loosen filter, slide plastic bag under it and remove it. It will come up through the top but with a warm engine the process will test your patience. To remove the water sensor, just open the jaws of a pair of pliers a little and stick them in the bottom of the water sensor to unscrew it. That is the easy part.
Don't forget to smile at the wife! After all, it is not her fault, you picked out the truck.
Steve,
Based on previous forum discussion and research by several forum members, its been confirmed that ALL Duramax (stock) fuel filters, WIX included, are made by RACOR. smile.gif
Riv nuts are junk, if you guys want some quality hardware, try putting in "Camlocs" 1/4 turn & they are open. 1/4 turn & they are closed. They also come in stainless. John
smartfix
08-02-2003, 20:20
Camlocs" 1/4
Hello where does everyone get there hardware from,
Does Home depot carry this.. We have 12 more
units coming soon and would like to get our test truck done soon .. and do a dry run ..
Guys Will GM Voild anything if we use the wix fuel filters.. Got a real good deal on them today.. Or do we have to use OEM per GM
From steve
Camloc's can be found at most aircraft supply places. Wag Aero in Lyons,Wi. comes to mind.(262)763-4087
smartfix
08-12-2003, 13:17
Hello all
Q for anyone
1st How many miles are you doing on you Oem Filter
2nd When they start to clog what should we look for.. loss of power ???
3 Might have a small bug or can it be the filter at 1,000 miles.. In the morning time when the truck sleeps all night under the moon light.. When we wake her up at 8pm
I have LOSS OF POWER till the engine warms up and then it runs great all day .. Kind of has this drag when its cold.. temp out is 90
From steve
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