? on fuel line between tank and steel line

[HoustonDMax]

For those that have replaced the factory line between the fuel tank nipple and the steel line behind the cooler, what was the approximate length of that line? Long bed or short bed?

Plan on dropping my tank this weekend, and want to make sure I have enough to cover that, as well as extra for a future lift pump install.

Thanks in advance.

[chuntag95]

I still have the OEM (somewhere) and will see if I can measure it for you tonight.
Chris

[Kennedy]

3' to 4' should be plenty...

[jbplock]

On my Short Box I used approx 3 ft of 7/16 id hose (http://community.webshots.com/photo/67970835/72256648CsYxpQ) from the tank nipple to the steel line behind the cooler when I first replaced the OE QD hose (http://community.webshots.com/photo/67970835/72256041LaCXPA). (IIRC the bricks in the picture background are 16"). The current hose is longer now since it runs to the lift pump (http://community.webshots.com/album/77018086bLHHHC). I bought two 10' lengths on two occasions and still have quite a bit left after the lift pump install. smile.gif

[HoustonDMax]

Thanks all. Just don't want to have to drop again when I add the lift pump.

[Kennedy]

Mel,

I should have a handful of fittings in soon that will direclty couple 7/16" or 1/2" hose to the lift pump, and a few pumps on hand as well. I'll also have some NPT adapters for a bypass loop if desired. Suffice to say, the hydraulic part is nearing completion. The electric part is another story, and likely will not happen til I get out to Sturgis for a long overdue and SERIOUS attitude adjustment...

Personally, I'd like to try to mount the pump in the hose in question so as to make things easily reversible and obscure...

[HoustonDMax]

John, change in fuel brand has me going further than immediately after check valve nipple install. I will continue with that experment.

Will drop tank this weekend after a run to my brothers shop in San Antonio (he has a lift that can support my truck with all the extra weight I have added). Replacing rear hose, and lubing remaining QD near drivers side valve cover. Will run like that for a couple of weeks, till I get a chance to get back to it (once kids get back in school, I will have some time available).

At that point, even if stalls are reduced or eliminated, I still want to add the lift pump. By then, maybe you will have you kit worked up. If not, I can just get either the pump or what ever you have together so far, and work the rest out myself. Modeling after Tommy's, Chris's or Bill's, including the bypass loop (adjusting pressure) looks like the way to go.

Thanks for everyone's help.

[TraceF]

Been gone awhile. Why are you replacing this line? Has this been determined to be a source of air getting into the fuel system?

[HoustonDMax]

Just got back to trouble shooting air source, after having Mega off for the last couple of months for a different reason. Source appears to be back towards lines to engine. That is reason for replacing, as well as to facilitate lift pump.

Lowered tank and bent heat shield out of way to access fuel pickup on top of tank. Tank was still supported by one of the straps. Actually pretty painless. Will see now if this line replacement, as well as greasing QD by drivers side valve cover, helps. Time will tell.

I found it interesting that even with all the air I introduced into the system by changing the rear line and disconncting the front QD, engine fired right back up with no priming and ran with no stall. As expected, all that air I introduced did collect in the Mega, and did give me a stall after a 225 mile drive from San Antonio to Houston. Bled last night (hopefully for the last time due to a stall?), and will find out the results this week.