Torsion Bars

[gregmican]

Hey guys, I don't want to sound like a dumba$$, but my Duramax pickup sits a little lower in the front than most other 2500HD's. Is this because of the weight of the Max? I'm thinking of adjusting my torsion bars while the truck is on level concrete to get her level. Should I have any concerns about doing this? I know she will ride a little rougher, but I think it will be worth the rough ride. If GM would lose the independent front suspension and go back to the good ol' straight axle I wouldn't have this problem. Any suggestions?

[NutNbutGMC]

^...Do a search on torsion bars or look here: http://www.62-65-dieselpage.com/ubb/Forum7/HTML/002120.html

And look here for pictorial instructions:
http://65.67.237.169/chane/truck/torsion.htm

[CSDMAX]

gregmican,

There are several threads found in the 2500HD/3500 HD Trucks & Drivetrain section regarding this topic. How to's and feedback from those who have adjusted them and discussion about alignment, etc. Go to the search tool and enter "torsion bar".

I have adjusted mine 4 1/2 turns on drivers side and 3 on the passenger. It has raised it nicely. Have not had it realigned yet but I don't see any problem with it so far.

Don

[SoCalDMAX]

Greg,

I'd recommend adjusting the torsion bars and measuring the height from the frame to ground on both sides to ensure it's level from side to side as well. IIRC, about 3 or 4 turns brings it up about an inch.

I don't believe that adjusting the torsion bars stiffens the suspension at all. It will end up nowhere near either end of the travel. As delivered, our trucks are already sitting on the urethane bump stops. By raising it off of the bump stop, the suspension gets a chance to move a little before hitting the stop.

I took mine to the dealer, complaining that it wasn't level front to rear or side to side. They raised it and did an alignment (no charge), which I'd recommend to be on the safe side.

If you really want to improve the ride, install some Bilstein shocks (1,000% better than factory shocks for about $200/set) or some Rancho RS9000 shocks (adjustable 1-5 and about $260/set). That will make you think you're driving an Escalade. ;)

Regards, Steve

[gregmican]

Everyone,
Thanks for replying to me, I went out to the shop and gave the bars about 6 turns to get my truck level as far as my eyes could tell. Thanks for the info, now I just have to get her aligned. SoCalDMAX , I did not know the Rancho rs9000 shocks were availiable for our 2500hds. I'll check into it. Thanks for the help! ;)

[SoCalDMAX]

Hi Greg,

Just checked my receipt, the RS9000 front shocks were P/N 9295 and the rear shocks were 9274.

Glad to help. :D

Regards, Steve

[Jomar]

Greg
Just last week I jacked mine up in the front to get the weight off the suspension and cranked up the torsion bolts 2-1/2 on drivers side and 2 on pass. side. This set the truck just a little bit low in front. I already had Rancho 9000s on. Rides good, drives good.

John G.

[midwestdmax29]

It is going to cost you not to reallign the front end after an adjustment is made, you are going to wear the tires on the edges. Another recommendation is to keep a bit of rake in the truck if you tow with it or haul heavy. My buddies truck leans back with the trailer on and does the nose dance whereas mine sets pretty level. 1 to 1 1/2 inches of rake is barely noticable, especially on a crew cab. I'm not sure, but I'd bet increasing the front end height eats a bit more fuel also. Mine runs 17-18 with mixed driving versus 19 with my stock 01.

[SoCalDMAX]

midwestdmax29,

That's an excellent point you brought up about rake and fuel economy. It's been rattling around in my noggin for a while, why such a pronounced rake... could it be that GM did some wind tunnel testing and found it to be optimal for aerodynamics?

Did you keep accurate records of your mileage and actually saw a 1-2mpg difference?

Regards, Steve