Battery cables and ends?

[whatnot]

I need to replace all the cables on my 95. (I think that if some of the people on TDP saw them they would have a heart attack) :D
What kind of battery cable ends work the best? The only ones at the local parts store are the cheapie lead ones and I don't think it will work to stack them for the double positive on the passenger side. I think I can find some wire for free. What size would be the best to use?

[Barry Nave]

I think the stock cables are fine though Dr. Lee has an upgrade trick on the bolts.
3/8 ss bolts into the battery with lock nuts to clamp down on the cables.
Just trim away the rubber at battery ends.
The members area shows the how to on this

[jspringator]

Although I prefer lugs, the bolt on lead ends are designed to be stacked. Manipulate them and you will see how they interconnect for stacking. That said, my fovorites are lugs, custon done by the guy at NAPA. He solders the wire into the lugs. I smear all connections with anti-sieze. FYI, I upgraded all wire sizes to 1/0.

[autocrosser]

Soldering isn't the best way. They should be connected with a compression tool and if you want they could be soldered also. Hammering it closed is unacceptable also. You will get less resistance in the connection with a compression fitting. Been there done that confirmed by measurment of resistance with milliohm resistance meters. Rememember the voltage drop is current X resistance. A hundreth of a ohm at 400a is 4v drop.

[whatnot]

Is there anywhere that I can find the measurements of what the cables are supposed to be so I can have them pre-made before removing the old ones?
Are the lugs like the factory ones or just like the end that goes to the starter?

[CareyWeber]

Whatnot,

Go to a welding supply store and get at least 1 gauge welding cable.

Then go to Napa and get:
Heat shrink tubing (they have both red and black that has a sealant that helps protect the connection).

Tin coated heavy duty truck battery lugs.

Have them crimp them the ends on (solder if you want).

I just used a tape measure to do mine.

I also used a 1 gauge to connect my alternator to my battery.

Carey

[Wendell Sorrell]

Carey, When you say "1 gage" is that what you meant or "1/0" gage? Meaning 0 is larger than 2 gage, then increasing from 1/0, 2/0, 3/0, etc.? Just curious.

I had an application for a very large power inverter that required 4/0 cables if the distance exceeded 6 feet. FAT CHANCE! I could only find 2/0 connections within a hundred miles. The connections were "swedged" on but that required special fittings and equipment.

[CareyWeber]

Wendle yes I ment 1 gauge.

You can go larger to 1/0 or even 2/0.

I think 1 gauge is big enough though.

Carey

[Billman]

For the record, I vote to solder them. I didn't think their was a better way.

Fill the lug with solder and slide in the cable. When done use heat shrink.

Beats hammering lug on. Nothing neater or more professional looking...

[JohnC]

I'd go with crimping and not soldering. Solder wicks into the cable and makes it rigid. vibration then causes the strands to break right at the end of the solder soaked section. Eventually it'll break off. If you insist on soldering, make sure the cable is supported so that there is no movement of the first inch or two after the connector.

Most tractor dealers can make the cables up using the proper tools.

The critical cable is the one from the positive side of the passenger's side battery. It's the only one that carries current from both batteries.

[Marlin]

I recently replaced the cables on my wife's suburban. I used 1/0 cable with military style battery clamps. On the passenger side battery, I grounded from the battery to the fenderwell, battery to the engine block, battery to the frame. Positive to the starter and driver side battery. On the driver side battery, I grounded from the battery to the fenderwell, battery to the engine block, battery to the frame. I used 4 gauge from the alternator to the driver side battery and from the firewall to the passenger side battery. This will make a tremendous difference! I can have the lights on with brights, both front and rear fan with A/C on. At idle the volt meter will read 14 volts and before the volt meter would read about 9.5 to 10 volts. It cost be about 90 bucks and an afternoon to due.

[ucdavis]

The UP Railroad way FWIW, is crimp (no solder) w/heat-shrink. They have about a zillion lead-acid back-up systems in every weather condition known to man. The wrong solder or flux would assist in corrosion within the cable. Also great is self vulcanizing tape (Tommy Tape & Xtreme Tape brands) for finishing water-tight.
For the true connoiseur, welding cable is the ticket. It is more flexible per foot due to smaller strands, and carries more amps per mm of diameter so you can run smaller diameter cable if you care.
For my money, care in sealing the ends for corrosion resistance is worth the time. Parts stores sell goop for that; vaseline works fine; anti-seize was mentioned above and is good; best I know of is "Kopr-Shield" brand of anti-ox coating (that's a preffered item in the communications industry for outside grounding connections where miniscule stray currents are a PITA & need to be drained off to ground).

[ 12-15-2003, 02:09 PM: Message edited by: ucdavis ]

[Barry Nave]

I love this over KILL in wiring :D

[damork]

I did a search a while back for an economical crimper and found one made by Molex. McMaster-Carr sells it for around $30, and you don't want to solder the ends on. Crimping is best.

The Molex hammer crimper works great. There is another hammer type crimper that is sold with Brute in the title - I found out the hard way that it is not made in the USA and quality is junk.

Go with the 1/0 or 2/0 welding cable.

www.wranglernw.com (http://www.wranglernw.com) is one source for all electrical cables, wiring, connections, alternators, etc.

[whatnot]

I still can't find any decent battery terminals.
I plan on crimpimg them since I already have a crimper tool but the only thing I can find is copper ring lugs and nothing big enough to cover the whole battery terminal. (I did find a lot of websites with nice top post terminals but I don't want those)