lly-lb7 fuel filter bleeder screws!

[mark45678]

Does anyone know who sell replacement screws for the fuelfilter houseings? I did the first filter on my 2004 took the screw out to drain the filter before getting fuel on everything...... It was stripped on the production line! I cant recall where but I think someone was selling a steel replacement for the OEM plastic? HELP! :(

[crimedawg]

Go to the advertiser's section (above) and click on the AMSOIL add (Lubrication Specialist, LLC.) they (stainless steel screw) will be on the first page that comes up (lower left). I have had on in for over a year, it works great (I bought a spare also). Good luck.

[crimedawg]

Don't know my left from my right the screw will be on the lower RIGHT!!!

[Modified]

Maybe the same guy who installs the engine oil filters was helping out with the fuel filters the day your truck went by.

Personally, I would be reluctant to use anything but the OEM plastic. If the bleeder is installed too tight or cross-threaded, I would rather replace the $3.65 plastic bleeder, instead of a $512 filter housing.
If installed finger tight, using a 1/2" nutdriver, it should last a long, long time. I always carry spares, (if you loose or break one you're SOL). After 2 1/2 years, I'm still with my original bleeder.
I bought spares from Diesel Injection Service at http://www.dieselpage.com/main.shtml . Racor part # RK 30818.

[Modified]

mark45678,

Is your truck drivable?
Do you have other transportation?

A bandaid fix could be a metric bolt or screw with an O-ring, (reuse old O-ring). Looks like a 10MM about 8 or 10 mm long.

If you call DIS, they may be able to Overnight ship one to you.
If not, I have extra's, that I may be able to Overnight ship to you.
If you need help, leave your E-mail address, and we can talk.

[mark45678]

trucks driveable! when I took it out there wasnt much left of the threads..... I very carefuly put it back in and its holding ! should have new bleader screw for it some time this week.... thanks for your help!

[Modified]

I guess this might be one time your glad you have a vacuum fuel system.
Be aware of a potiental fuel system problem until you get the replacement vent plug. You could be drawing air in, which is very difficult to detect. This could cause hard or no start, missing, or other performance problems. Hopefully your replacement plugs arrive soon. Be sure to order extras.
Did you decide on the OEM plastic or the SS?

[DmaxMaverick]

Modified---Wise words of caution.

However....
If the same care and caution is observed when using a steel screw (which I use, for now), there should be no problems. It's unlikely it will be cross threaded or overtightened (although someone will do it eventually). The steel screw that I got from Greg has a slot on it for a screwdriver, but it is tall and fluted. High quality, for what it is. Finger tight is all it takes, no tools required, on or off. The O-ring is better than a needle/seat for this application. That's about all the good I can say for the design.

Makes no difference to me at any rate. Won't be long before I dump the screws all together and install valves (on both, OEM and Mega) and plumb it, similar to the 6.5L design. The OEM design is lacking thought. A broken screw would likely shut you down, as the fuel system tolerates very little air leakage, not to mention all that fuel that gets ****d out on top of the filter housing when bleeding. Only place for it to go is down the side of the filter and drip onto the frame or wick up the water sensor wire, which is another point of lacking thought. Once fuel gets onto the frame, the wax coating is gone, now or later, just try to stop it. #2 is not an effective corrosion barrier, but will get under just about anything that is.

It chaps my a$$ that the only fluid spill (leak) on my entire truck is by design! Little fuel now, lot of grime later. Hate it!

My OEM bleeder screw is in the glove box as a back up, nothing more.

[mark45678]

I got the SS plug!!!I know all about drawing air in...My 2001 lb7 truck got traded in after I had a fuel gelling problem.... I found out the replacement filter houseing cost 500+, with 90,000 mile on it I wasnt about to pay thousands to have a dealer tell me whats wrong! It would run for 65 miles at highway speed and then draw a big gulp of air in and only run up to 1800 rpm's..... hit the primer 10~15 time and it would run fine untill the next air bubble got into the system.... I think it was just the plastic piece in the primer got deformed when stupid me heated up the fuel filter houseing with a drop light .... But in Feb. it was -10 almost every night and I got a bad load of fuel for the first time in 11 years! it was my fault but I wasnt going to pay to fix it.... just trade it in...