Thank you

[Mudflap]

We were pulling our trailer home from Bristol when I got a bad load of fuel, mucho dirt and water. About 8 miles from the stop she started bucking and stalled, re-started, drove about a mile and a half then stalled again. I managed to limp off the road to a parking lot and decided to change the filter. I keep a spare under the back seat (thanks to the guys on the diesel page). Sure as the devil, I broke the bleeder screw. Maybe my state of mind, and the fact that it was raining might have helped! I went to my little parts box and got one of my spare bleeder screws (again thanks to the guys on the diesel page). We were back on the road after about an hour with a renewed pledge to stick to the truck stops. When we got home I cut the old filter open and you would not believe the crud that was in there. Thanks again guys, without the spare filter and bleeder screw we would have been screwed, those ideas came from you. Sign me grateful!

[ram/tx]

Mudflap---Glad everything worked out for you. What is the part number for the Bleeder Screw? Sounds like something I should have in my little parts box. Thanks for any information.

[bullet2110]

Ram/tx......The part number is RK30818 from DIS. They cost about $3.60 each.

.....Mark

[ram/tx]

Bullet2110---Thanks, I'll get a couple of them on the way.

[Joe P]

What type wrench are you guys using to remove the fuel filter? Iam doing my first filter change shortly,i also want to put one in the truck incase i get stuck on the road. Thanks

[DMAX_Phil]

Mudflap, After reading your story, I ordered three bleeder screws (hopefully a lifetime supply). I can almost feel the pain of having to do this job in the rain, on the side of the road...


Phil B.

[dmaxalliTech]

I have a few questions on these bleeder screws. I have seen a stainless screw that is knurled for easy grips. Is this the one mentioned above?

Why couldnt we use a radiator petcock type set up to replace the bleeder screw, assuming you could find one with a 10mm 1.5 thread?

[ChevysRus]

JOE P..... I use one of those nylon strap wrenches where you wrap it around the filter and take up the slack with a rachet and extension (short one). They cost about $8 at your local parts store.

The metal oil filter type wrenches usually slip and don't grip tight enough. The strap wrench is a nylon strap and the more you turn it the tighter it gets until something gives, usually and hopefully the filter LOL


Good luck with your first change. One tip is to wrap the filter in a plastic zip lock bag or similar bag that won't leak diesel fuel, then slip the wrench over the filter (do this first) then place the bag under the filter and turn until it gets loose. Let the filter drop into the bag or at least hold the filter with the bag so any fuel will spill into the bag and not all over your frame where it will remove the wax paint coating.

Also the water sensor on the bottom of the filter has a connector just in front of the filter and along side the engine block, unhook the connector and remove the filter with the sensor intact. Then switch it over to the new filter and re-install. If you can't find it follow the wire from the water sensor on the bottom of the filter up to the connector.

Do your first one on a nice day, when you are in a good mood as it can be aggravating, once you do it then the next ones are a piece of cake.

If you have an '01 there is enough room to lift it out the top. '02 and '03 seem to have no space on top as some have posted. Another way is to take off the plastic inner fender flap, then you can access everything by reaching in over the tire. Be sure and slip on the new O rings and a little grease on the top ring keeps it from falling out when you are trying to put the filter back on. Some have suggested partial fill of the filter before installing, but I always just put it on and prime about 10-20 pumps...never fails to fire up and run. Be sure it is on tight as you don't want any leaks (sucking air etc).

Good Luck again

[Mudflap]

I used a strap wench (another idea from the diesel page). Just remember that you are working from the top so don't get "lefty loosy righty tighty" mixed up, it is another one of those things that make you feel good when you are leaning over the fender with water (cold water) running down your back swearing that you will kill the b**tard that designed this thing. When the plastic head of the bleeder screw comes off it is time to back away, get wetter and take a deep breath while your wife looks at you in amazement because she thought that she had heard all of the swear words that you knew. Go to the DIS web page, order some spare filters and bleeder screws and keep at least one (1) of each in the truck at all times. Don't waste your time going to the dealer because they will tell you that the bleeder screw is part of a $500.00 filter assembly and is not available seperately. Then practice changing the filter in your driveway on a warm sunny afternoon. Just remember that when you need to do it on the road, Murphy will be setting on your hood laughing his a** off.

[svpdiesel]

The stainless bleeder screw is available from Lube Specialists.

[rtquig]

I would stick with the plastic screw. If you look at a chart that states which metals are compatable, stainless and aluminum are not. The plastic screw is designed to not screw up the aluminum threads.

[SS396]

For more than you ever want to know about bleeder screws, try this link:

http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=004838&p=

Personally, I will use the stainless screw once I do my first filter change, which will be soon with the addition of the Mega filter.