For those who haven't changed their fuel filter

[JEBar]

Changed my fuel filter for the first time yesterday. Want to thank all the folks who have recently offered advise on this project...for me it much easier to handle the change by removing the battery (no electrical problems resulted from doing so)...I also learned two things which may help some one and which I haven't seen mentioned 1} When they say "unplug the wire from the bottom of the filter" what should be noted is that the "plug" is not on the bottom of the filer, it is on a wire clamped to the side of the engine about 4-6 inches towards the front from the bottom of the filer 2) This filter is larger in diameter than any I have used so I had to go back and buy a new filter wrench, would have been nice to have realized this and not had to make a second trip. smile.gif

[Zapper]

Changed mine a couple of weeks ago from the top side. The only problems I encountered were, I could not force the filter out the top between the AC lines and the big blue hose. I had to let it rest on the suspension and get under the truck to retrieve it. The same when installing the new one had to rest it underneath then grab it from top side to install. The large o-ring on the top of filter, I had a little trouble getting it to stay in place tried wd40 then motor oil finally solved that problem with wheel bearing grease. Lastly getting my arms in the position needed to apply bottom pressure to get new filter started. It will be easier next time. I had 9800 miles on this filter noticed no water but quite a bit of hardened orangeish gunk inside filter. Think I will change mine at every other oil change.

[1BADDMAX]

I first changed my filter at 15,000 miles. Today I changed it at 28,200 miles. The truck was noticeably getting weak in performance. There was some nasty looking orangeish brown looking gunk in the filter. I think a 10k interval will be in store from now on.

[reelbob6.6]

Thanks for the two tips on the filter job. I will take less time next time and will get the wires on the head out of the way. I am 6' 3" so I did it from the top. Getting enough upward pressure was the big problem for me. Like most jobs next time should be easier. Thanks again!! Great board
2001 2500 HD Allison Duramax - 16,700 good miles

[dmaxstu]

I changed my fuel filter for the first time yesterday at 15000 MI and found that it looked as clean as the new one I installed, I was looking for this orange stuff you guys were talking about but there was none. This brings me to my point which is that the people who find this contamination in the filter, you should review your fuelling stations and stick to those that turn over a lot of fuel. This has been my policy and it seems to have paid off. Stu

[JF]

i agree with dmaxstu. Previously, had Cummins and had "water in fuel" light go on. Drained filter, and continued on my way. However, was draining water from filter for next two weeks. Had fueled at a different station than usual. Since then, use same station(moves a lot of diesel). Have never had a problem since, with D**ge Cummins or Chev/Dmax.

[KompressorMan]

My truck has 35,500 miles on it and have changed the filter at about 15,000 miles each time. Now be warned, I need 8 new injectors and General Meany doesn't want to pay. They say bad fuel, not their fault. The bottom line is this 8 injectors equals over $6,000.00. We're going to fight over this. Also, my water in fuel light has never lit.

[ 07-13-2002: Message edited by: KompressorMan ]</p>

[csimo]

I've changed my filter a couple of times. The first by removing the battery and the second by removing the inner fenderwell. I can tell you that removing the fenderwell is by far the easiest way!

You can have that piece of plastic off in less than 5 minutes and then have full unobstructed access to the filter and wires.

The plastic rivets have a small center pin. Pull that center pin out by using a screwdriver (they have slots for a screwdriver if you look close) and then the rivet (or whatever you call them) pull out easily.

[mtomac]

Changed the fuel filter yesterday at 15XXX. When I took the fender liner out to put the EGT probe in the exhaust manifold awhile back I noticed the fuel filter was right there and unobstructed. So I took the liner out again to change the filter and it is by far the easiest way to go. The plastic pins holding the liner in came out a little easier this time around. If I had to change the fuel filter on the side of the road I would take the fender liner out, it only takes a couple minutes. I just keep a screwdriver, pliers, filter, and a couple extra plastic pins with me just in case.

[Jimamatic]

Okay, I can't stand it. Sorry to hear about your
trouble Kompressorman. I hope it gets resolved to
your satisfaction. Just what the h$#$ does this
dealership think it's doing anyway. If it is under
warranty then there should be no question about it period. What do they expect you to do, take a
sample of fuel from the pump and test it to make
sure it's in spec before filling your tank???
Over 6000 grand or new injectors!!!! You could
nearly by a new engine for that. I don't get
why they are so expensive. Be sure and keep us
posted. Just my 2 cents..
Good luck...

[dmaxstu]

KOMPRESSORMAN
Something does not sound quite right about those injectors. Maybe some influence from our leaders on this forum could be brought to bear where it is needed and get that problem solved. Stu

[Jimamatic]

One more thing Kman. As I'm sure you know, I believe the power train warranty covers the cost of parts but not labor beyond 3/36,000 up to 5/100,000 excluding the turbo. I don't have my
manual in front of me, but I'm pretty sure
there is no mention of excluding the injectors..
Okay, I guess that's 4 cents. Hope you get it
solved...

[More Power]

For GM or a dealer to deny warranty coverage, they must be able to "prove" owner negligence or owner modification.

Contaminated fuel "is" a just cause for warranty denial, if they can prove it. I would recommend that any owner in this position be shown the bad part at the time of service, and have the service manager explain to you why the warranty is being denied. Taking photos of the bad part, wouldn't be a bad idea.

If you are forced to pay before picking up your truck, write "paying in protest" on the service order and personal check/CC statement. Either way, your signature is your/their written contract that you agree to pay the requested amount. Bailing on payment after the fact is a totally separate legal issue.

Then... Those of us who have served in the military know what a "chain of command" is and how it works. Use it. There is also a conflict resolution procedure listed in the back of your owner's manual. It's there to help you in situations like these.

I would also add that, over the years, there have been many DP people helped when they couldn't get it anywhere else.... Read into that what you will...

MP

[ 07-14-2002: Message edited by: More Power ]</p>