First Oil Change

[Diesel_Lawyer]

I did my first oil change on Duramax crew cab with full bed. Some things I found and some questions you all can help me with:

The factory oil filter was almost impossible to loosen. Finally got it of with a Sears strap wrench. A band of sand paper (sand against filter) between filter and wrench helped get even more traction. I used an empty 1/2 gallon ice cream container to catch the old filter and any oil draining as I loosened filter.

The oil drain plug is a 16mm metric hex. I needed an 18" breaker bar to loosen this.

I used the black GM oil filter from GMpartsdirect.com. The new filter said to tighten 1-1 1/4 turns after contact. I tightened the filter one turn but it leaked. It needed the extra 1/4 turn.

I used Delvac 1300.

I have read a lot on here about changing rear axle lube but what about front axle? Is in not as important to change this fluid because 4 wheel drive is used so little? What fluid are you all using in the fromt?

Also, what about zerk fittings? How many zerk fittings are there and where are they all?

Thanks for the help.

[01_Duramax_Dually]

Diesel Lawyer,
Let me try and answer these questions/statements in order you posted:

Well we have all been through the "First Filter" change and they must impact gun those fella's on. I, along with everybody else, had similar problems removing the first one. The oil pressure in these motors is very high so you do have to tighten these just a "Scosh" more than a standard gas motor.

The drain pan Plug was the same issue. I highly recommend the "Fumoto Valve" replacement for the plug.

As for the oil you used, I cannot really comment on that but others will. I use Redline Synthetic. There were discussions here about the 1200 being better but do not quote me on that. I think you should use the oil you feel comfortable with and use it faithfully.

Change the front axle lube after 500 miles of 4WD use. I recommend that the first 500 miles you drive it in 4wd mode to break it all in then replace everything at once...You use the same axle lube front and rear. Use sythetic that meets the requirements. I used the over priced GM stuff to be safe.

There are 11 Zerk fittings. upper lower ball joints on both sides, 2 on each end of the steering centerlink as I call it, then up on the driver side steering you will find the others. There are none on the drive shafts or carrier bearing if you have a long bed. You will need a flexible gease gun line to get to the Zerk fittings. If you have air available, I highly recommend the pneumatic method as it is much easier to pulse a trigger then trying to pump it while holding it..(just me maybe)

One other note, If you have the Allison tranny, I recommend changing the Allison Spin on filter at 500 miles as well then again at 5K miles. Been a lot of discussion on this. Opinions vary, but people have been finding a lot of assembly by- products in the filter. Also, If you have time and plan on a lot of towing I highly recommend changing to the "Deep Pan" for the Allison and add Transdyn synthetic fluid. You gain a full gallon of fluid capacity which will help with cooling. Plus now it is synthetic for added protection. I did it and it made a significant difference of 20-40 degrees less in temperature when towing big loads...

Let me know if you need part numbers and the process for that. I have a pictorial on my webpage for this.

Good Luck and Enjoy the new truck.....

Carry On.... :D

[pinehill]

All good advice above except,

"Change the front axle lube after 500 miles of 4WD use. I recommend that the first 500 miles you drive it in 4wd mode to break it all in then replace everything at once."

DON'T do your first 500 miles in 4WD unless you stay off the pavement the whole time. Driving in 4WD on dry pavement for anything more than very short periods will cause tremendous wear in the front driveline. :(

[James S]

Hey There,

Do not use four wheel-drive, on dry pavement, because it causes excessive ware on the front drive line?????? Is this for JUST the first five-hundred miles, of breaking in the engine. With all the snow, we get here, I NEED four wheel-drive. How do I break in four wheel drive, then? Please clarify.

Confused James

[pinehill]

Avoiding the use of 4WD on dry pavement is adviseable both during break-in and post break-in. 4WD is fine for wet, snowy, or icy pavement and for off-road, of course. Good grief, with the pushbuttons, it couldn't be easier to switch back and forth as conditions change.

[pinehill]

And to answer your specific question, find some dirt roads, and drive them for a while.

[markf]

Diesel Lawyer,

I would be interested as to where you got the Fumoto Valve and the Deep Pan for the Allison. If you have part numbers that would be appreciated. I managed to mangle my drain plug and I tow a 32' 12,000lb horse trailer a few times a month.

2002 GMC 3500 Crew Cab D/A 4x4
SLT in the rarely seen Pewter/neutral combo

[MAXed Out]

MarkF,

For the allison parts, follow this link to locate an authorized dealer:

[markf]

Maxed Out,

Thanks for the information and I really appreciate the torque numbers.

[FirstDiesel]

MAXed Out

Where did you find the Allison filter for 8 bucks. My local Allison dealer wants 24 bucks for it and 36 bucks per gallon for the fluid.

[mackin]

FirstDiesel ,

Search for anouther supplier .. They are a rip off ..... Filter price is $8 bucks ..... Transynd is $28 ......... =>http://www.allisontransmission.com/

I'd waste the fuel driving 30 miles not to business with them ......

MAC :D

[tpitt]

I agree with Macklin. Just ordered five filters and they were $ 8.00 apiece. Haven't priced the other items yet. tpitt

[slapshot44]

The front and rear axles do not come with the same fluid from the factory. 80W-90 is recommended for the front axle, and the GM stuff is a mustard colored fluid (I don't think the original fluid is synthetic in the front axle). 75W-90 synthetic (grape juice) is used in the rear axle. Your owner's manual has the GM part nos. if you wish to stay with OEM fluids.

[FirstDiesel]

mackin

I was glad I even found 1 Ally dealer here in town. IIRC the next one was over a 2+ hour ride away from here.

Has anyone found a mailorder source for the Allsion parts yet??

[Idle_Chatter]

I just replaced my missing ring magnet from an authorized Allison dealer in the Baltimore area. Local GM truck dealer and another Chevy truck dealer both wanted $9.80 for the magnet!! I was going to drive an hour down to Baltimore to get it for their price of $1.86, but they were glad to ship it to me. I think you should be able to get them to ship anything to you. They are Johnson & Towers, Inc. 6861 Distribution Drive, Beltsville, MD 20705. (301)937-8700. Parts guy that I dealt with was Bob. He said that he was sure getting a lot of requests for ring magnets lately - I told him that there were a lot more Allison 1000s out there on the road now and that not all service technicians know about the magnet! :(

[FirstDiesel]

Thanks Tom, I'll give them a shout. Wonder how much they want for the fluid??? Anyone know how much fluid you need with a stock pan??

[ 06-16-2002: Message edited by: FirstDiesel ]</p>