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Thread: WD Hitch adjustment

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Princeton, NJ
    Posts
    345

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    My Reese Dual Cam HP Sway Control was set up just right prior to bringing our travel trailer home from the dealer. I marked the chain links so I would know exactly where to set the chains prior to making our first couple of trips. Now that the wife, kids and I are finally comfortable with our supplies, equipment, toys, etc., the front of the truck is riding higher (approx. 1") than it did when we brought the TT home for the first time.

    So this is the question; is it better to level the truck by taking up another link in the chain (I tried this as a test and one link does the trick), or do I re-pack the trailer in order to get some of the weight off the tongue and maintain the original chain setting?

    Although I haven't weighed the entire rig, I believe I continue to be comfortably within the 840# tongue rating for the TT.
    \'98 Chevy Suburban 2500 4X4, 6.5TD, 94K, 4.10 gears<br />K&N air filter, 4\" Magnaflow Performance Exhaust (cat modified), Isspro gauges (boost, pyro and tranny), Bilsteins, remote FSD, Turbo-Master, Max-E-Tork ECM, HO injectors, Jordan controller, Keystone Cougar 304 BHS<br />GCW 17,800# (all 7 of us, but without the bikes).<br />tstadulis@aol.com

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Collegeville, Pa
    Posts
    1,479

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    Take up another chain link, to make it level. When you left the dealer, you were empty and without the whole family. Loads vary, and you need to adjust to suit the load. Don't forget tire pressure, you need more for a heavier load. When traveling to most campgrounds we keep our fresh water at 1/4 tank or less, when we know we will have water available. (less weight) We also try to dump often to reduce weight. Sometimes you can't if you plan on an extended dry camp. (no hook-ups)
    When you can, pull into a truck stop with scales, and get a weight slip. Front axle, rear axle, trailer weight, when loaded. Now check the truck axle ratings, and see how well balanced you are. Cost varies, but most are under $10.00 US. You can also adjust your tire pressure. Many run over or under inflated tires when towing.
    Have fun relax and enjoy the RV experience.
    Tom McCauley (DP Member #513)
    "Tankers-ToyII" Loaded 05 D/A K-3500 CC, SRW. Deep pan on Allison w/Transyn. Edge Juice w/attitude, 4" Kennedy exhaust, 98 Gal. Transfer-Flow cross bed fuel tank, Leer 100XQ bed cap. Reese 14,000lb class V hitch w/ dual cam HP sway control. Tow 34ft. 32FKD Holiday Rambler travel trailer. GCW 20,360lbs

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Princeton, NJ
    Posts
    345

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    tanker,

    I'm assuming you mean the front and rear axle weights of the TV not the TT. Correct? Will I be able to get a tongue weight at a Cat scale? Does it make any sense to get axle weights of the TT, or is the TT weight good enough?
    \'98 Chevy Suburban 2500 4X4, 6.5TD, 94K, 4.10 gears<br />K&N air filter, 4\" Magnaflow Performance Exhaust (cat modified), Isspro gauges (boost, pyro and tranny), Bilsteins, remote FSD, Turbo-Master, Max-E-Tork ECM, HO injectors, Jordan controller, Keystone Cougar 304 BHS<br />GCW 17,800# (all 7 of us, but without the bikes).<br />tstadulis@aol.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Collegeville, Pa
    Posts
    1,479

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    Spindrift, get the tow vehicle front axle weight, rear axle weight, and the trailer tandem weight. They will also give you the total weight on the slip. To get the tongue weight you would need to drop your trailer with the jack post on a scale. Not sure if they will let you do that, depends on how busy they are. With the WD hitch you should be able to balance out your rig. You can always park on the level, block the trailer wheels, unhitch, then measure from ground to bottom of front, and rear, wheel-wells. Now hitch up, and adjust the bar chains to bring both front and rear wheel well measurements equal. IE: if the rear went down an inch, the front should also go down an inch. If not adjust the chains another link until you attain a level combination. Tow vehicle, and trailer should be level, when on a level surface. Trailer tongue should never be up, or down, just level. Tow vehicle should also be level. A 1/4" between front and rea wheel wells should be fine, but not an inch if you can help it.
    With a long trailer, you should also be using some sort of sway control, either "friction", or "dual-cam". Sway is dangerous, and may only show up in difficult situations, like being passed by semi's, or high winds, uneven road surfaces, and evasive manuveres in traffic. Keep towing speed lower, as stopping distance is worse. Have a good time.
    Tom McCauley (DP Member #513)
    "Tankers-ToyII" Loaded 05 D/A K-3500 CC, SRW. Deep pan on Allison w/Transyn. Edge Juice w/attitude, 4" Kennedy exhaust, 98 Gal. Transfer-Flow cross bed fuel tank, Leer 100XQ bed cap. Reese 14,000lb class V hitch w/ dual cam HP sway control. Tow 34ft. 32FKD Holiday Rambler travel trailer. GCW 20,360lbs

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Princeton, NJ
    Posts
    345

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    Thanks, tanker.

    I tried to get onto the Cat scale in Bordentown, off I295, this past weekend. Let's see...two lacrosse tournaments, one birthday party, grass mowing (dang, did I sweat!), one "sleepover", a couple of last minute, "Dad, can you take me to the movies with my friends", two vehicle washings, one vehicle waxing. You get the picture.

    I'm thinking that there won't be as many professional drivers using the scale on weekends and the manager at the Pilot Center might be a little more understanding if I hog the scale more than usual.

    I'm really anxious to get a tongue weight. Even with my Reese Dual Cam Sway Control, I get more sway than I think I should. Maybe I'm too light on the tongue?
    \'98 Chevy Suburban 2500 4X4, 6.5TD, 94K, 4.10 gears<br />K&N air filter, 4\" Magnaflow Performance Exhaust (cat modified), Isspro gauges (boost, pyro and tranny), Bilsteins, remote FSD, Turbo-Master, Max-E-Tork ECM, HO injectors, Jordan controller, Keystone Cougar 304 BHS<br />GCW 17,800# (all 7 of us, but without the bikes).<br />tstadulis@aol.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Collegeville, Pa
    Posts
    1,479

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    Yes you don't want to be light up front. I also assume you are about 30' in length, which can help with sway. I used the dual cam and a friction sway on my 30' Jayco and it worked fine. With our Holiday at 34' and the extra weight, I went with the 70 degree 20K "PullRite" swinging drawbar hitch. (www.pullrite.com) No sway at all.
    Check your weights and load it correctly. [img]smile.gif[/img]
    Tom McCauley (DP Member #513)
    "Tankers-ToyII" Loaded 05 D/A K-3500 CC, SRW. Deep pan on Allison w/Transyn. Edge Juice w/attitude, 4" Kennedy exhaust, 98 Gal. Transfer-Flow cross bed fuel tank, Leer 100XQ bed cap. Reese 14,000lb class V hitch w/ dual cam HP sway control. Tow 34ft. 32FKD Holiday Rambler travel trailer. GCW 20,360lbs

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    mississauga ontario canada
    Posts
    306

    Post

    When playing with those adjustment chains, go 1/2 a link on each side first not a full link, (place a 3/8" bolt between 2 of your links on each side). You may find that a full link adjustment (again on both sides) will totally screw up the desired handling characteristics of the truck and trailer.

    Uneven chain lengths will provide a torsional twist to your hitch and truck (who knows what that would do in a panic situation???).

    good luck
    GMC 2002 DURAMAX, SLT, EXCAB SHORT BOX 2500HD, 4X4, AUTO
    ACCESS TONNEAU COVER, 3" STAINLESS TUBE STEPS
    JORDAN BRAKE CONTROLLER
    34ft 10,000 lb TRAILER, 50 GAL TRANSFERE FLOW TANK (total 76 gals)

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