Originally Posted by
derekja
I don't think this changes my plan of action:
0) take report to seller while picking up some front end receipts he is looking for. Talk over with him. He protests loudly that he has great confidence in the truck. I think maybe I'd take a $1k loss to get out of it. Hurts, but with the shop guy telling me he wouldn't fix it I have lost some confidence.
1) get cylinder heads off with engine in the truck. Evaluate heads. Evaluate other engine components? replace glow plugs. get injectors checked. Check lift pump, timing chain, belt tensioner, harmonic balancer, and pulleys while in there.
2) address exhaust issues while putting heads back together.
3) r&r shocks, tie rods, and other front end and steering components
4) r&r brakes
Tools to buy:
-- chilton guide to supplement the alldatadiy online service guide
-- is it worth getting a compression tester and testing cylinder compression before ripping into the heads so I have some comparison numbers?
-- carcode (pc based bidirectional scan tool) - so that I can check for other codes, get some temp and perf measurements before pulling the truck apart, etc.
-- jack and jackstands (2) to raise vehicle while working on front end.
-- specialized chevy tools for harmonic puller, tie rod puller, glow plug socket, injector socket, etc.
I'm sure the list of tools will grow... I don't have much but sockets and wrenches and screwdrivers and such now.
I'm a little bit daunted by all this, honestly. I don't know what else to do other than dive into it, though.
Derek,
I think you have a good plan, and since I'm living your nightmare at this very moment I offer the following advise:
1. Take numerous pictures of the engine compartment before & DURING disassembly. My girlfriend suggested that I do that before gutting it and I wish now that I had done it. Would be very helpful during re-assembly. I've even gone to the local junk yard since starting back together and photographed a carcass. It helped.
2. Keep a notebook of the order in which you remove things.
3. Place all bolts/fasteners in plastic or styrofoam cups for each component removed. Mark each cup and set aside.
4. Mark ALL wires, plugs, etc with duct tape and identified with a magic marker.
5. Everything's metric. Get a good set of combo wrenches. A metric deep-well socket set is also imperative for the job, although you'll primarily use the 13 & 15mm sockets. Have any friends who are mechanics? Borrow what tools you can instead of buying.
6. Do a compression check before you remove the heads to establish baseline data. Plan on another following the R&R for comparison.
7. Find a good, reputable machine shop to check the heads. I spent about $110 to find out mine were junk. After removing your heads, take pictures of the head gaskets. If I remember correctly, #2 (passenger, front) and #7 (driver, rear) are the most prone for head gasket failure. The Guide details this in the head gasket replacement section. If you need heads, let me know. There's a guy here in PA that had about a dozen or so new GM heads with valves for $350 per. Clearwater in FLA also has been mentioned as a good source. Shop around. Check fleaBay.
8. You mentioned raising the vehicle. I took the front wheels off and set the front axle on the 2x8's on the ground as I knew I'd be bending over alot to work on it (no pun intended). Your lift kit may contraindicate this action however.
9. WD40, WD40, WD40. Spray it on every bolt/nut that is exposed to the elements (like exhaust, component mounts, etc.). Let the stuff soak on the heavily corroded hardware for a few days before trying to remove. On some of my ugliest bolts, I gave 'em a shot each day for three days. Stuff works like a charm.
If you want to call me, I'll PM you my #. Be glad to talk.
-Bill
95 K2500 6.5TD, Ext cab, short bed, 123K, FSD Remote, minor overhaul @ 123K: new injectors, glow plugs, glow plug relay, injection lines, heads, exhaust manifolds, harmonic damper & idler damper, water pump, (timing chain at 3/8" play) 4" exhaust, K&N air filter, CDR valve, trans cooler lines, alternator. Dead Kitty & deactivated EGR. (MPG: 11.5 before work listed, 13.5 afterwards & 17 w/ Marvel Mystery Oil)