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Thread: ARP HEAD STUDS or STOCK HEAD BOLTS

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Spokane Wa.
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    146

    Default ARP HEAD STUDS or STOCK HEAD BOLTS

    I'm getting ready to change the head gaskets on my 02 LB7. What would be better to use Stock bolts or ARP head studs? My truck has 180000 miles. Studs are $550.00 off ebay. Stock bolts from Napa are $170.00
    Jeff

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
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    Loyal WI US
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    10,792

    Default

    Studs are always a good idea, but make future service more difficult as they need to be removed to pull heads in chassis.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Spokane Wa.
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    Default

    True,but wouldnt the stock type bolts cause it to blow a head gasket in the furure though?
    Jeff

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    maui, hawaii
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    93

    Default

    (True,but wouldn't the stock type bolts cause it to blow a head gasket in the future though? )
    You have 180,000 miles on your truck. Did the stock bolts cause your truck to blow its head gasket? How often did that happen? Is your truck stock?
    1) '03 GMC 2500HD Dmax/Ali Ext/Short 4x4; 4" exhaust, egt and boost gauges; exhaust brake; Bilsteins; BD exhaust manifold; Oil Guard bypass; Lubrication pre oem fuel filter; Tekonsha Prodigy; Mag-Hytec differential cover; Suncoast V transmission w/deep oil sump
    2) '07 Classic GMC 2500HD Dmax/Ali Ext/Short 4x4'; Bilsteins, Silastic shackles, BD exhaust manifold; Oil Guard bypass; Lubrication pre oem fuel filter; Tekonsha Prodigy; Federico sway bars; Dipricol boost and egt gauges; Transgo Jr,, Mag-Hytec differential and transmission pan

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    GREELEY COLORADO
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Head studds are always a good idea. its like prevenative maintance. But if your not going to push the engine then you dont really need them. I would still change them

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Spokane Wa.
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    Default

    I'm not sure if the head gasket is blown,but the coolant burping out of the overflow is a sure sign of it. The injectors were changed before 100K. A member told me anytime your injectors are changed sometime in the future you will have coolant burping problems. Caused by loose injector cups. which can happen during the injector change. Is that my trucks problem. I dont know until I take it apart. Also I was told the constant cooling and heating causes the stock bolts to stretch over time causing head gasket problems. My question is why do the LB7's have coolant burping issues?
    Jeff

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    13,583

    Arrow

    There's no indication of the early head gaskets failing due to head bolt stretch. None. The explanations I've heard, and backed by limited observation, is the nature of the gasket lamination to break down. Hence, they've been redesigned, and it seems to have eliminated this issue for the most part (nothing is really absolute). With stock to moderate power levels, stock head bolts should not be an issue. They don't "stretch", to any significant degree.

    The reason for the coolant leak issue and injector cups on the LB7's is absolutely avoidable. The cause is, the injector cups are "wet", meaning they are the barrier between the coolant passage and injector hole in the head. The seal at the base of the cup can be upset (sealant loosened/broken), leading to leakage under pressure. This is caused mostly by improper injector removal, but can happen even when everything else goes as it should (Murphy's law). This is the reason most will recommend resealing them any time the injectors are removed, which eliminates the issue almost entirely. It seams most dealers won't invest the time to do this (not covered by the warranty unless an obvious leak, or the cup unseats during injector removal), and assume they won't leak (a gamble they often lose). Sealing them is not difficult, but does take some time to do. Some extra time is cheap insurance if you are doing an injector replacement yourself.
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