Amg P400

[ronniejoe]

I think he meant the steel return line that runs across the front of the engine.

[JetBoater]

Yes... sorry, I was talking about the injector return line. Not the main injector lines.

Just checked in with him by phone, the steering pump, idler and crank pulley, vacuum pump, alternator, and ac pump are now mounted. He has the radiator in also.

A few belts, hoses, and wires... and we should be there.

I need to check my book on glow plug wiring, he said he can't remember how they connect.

A short piece of exhaust pipe will finish the underside of truck and we should be close to the initial startup.
Mike

[JetBoater]

It rumbles to life!

Well... after repairing the passenger side glow plug wires and the solenoid starter wire (they were all broken or breaking), we did the voltage adjustment on the TPS after the batteries were hooked up.

The cruise was not hooked up as the throttle bracket didn't fit geometrically the way it should. The bracket was welded by the dude I bought the old motor and the dual thermostat housing from... that motor did have a DB2-4911 pump on it, so I'll need to figure this out at a later time. I'll post a picture on a separate thread and see if anyone can advise how it should fit.

We cracked the fuel filter cannister and attached a hose for drainage. We cracked the injector lines at the injectors and started short burst of turning the engine over. The batteries seemed dead so we put them on charge until my mechanic figured out the ground from the driver's side battery to the motor was hanging up in the wheel well . After he re-attached the ground cable to the block... we had plenty of juice to spin the motor and prime the fuel filter and verify oil pressure. This took 5 sessions of cycling the motor about 6 revolutions at a time.

When we verified fuel weeping around each injector, we tightened up the lines.

She fired right up! Nice clean exhaust... the oil pressure was hanging around 3/4 of the gauge.

We shut it down after 1 minute to check the oil level, the restarted and ran it for approximately 20 minutes. The 180 degree thermostats took over 15 minutes to open.. and the guage only rose to 40 C ( the starting point). I'll need to check the sensor. We verified flow through the rad and purged all the air.

Low coolant light was on, so my mechanic found the wire and attached it to the sensor.. light went away .

No leaks... it sounds healthy... and rumbles as loud and my former 6.5! I ran around town for about 45 minutes yesterday. The only problem was the fuel gauge occasionally jumped up and then settling back down to the 1/2 full level. Hmm... wiring? This happend 4-5 times during the drive.

The oil pressure settled to about half the guage at idle, and rose to 3/4 on acceleration...

I need to adjust the wastegate on the turbo, as it did not spool up on the drive home. I called my local injection shop.. and they advised they could time the IP, but it only goes a 1/2 degree either way. I'll see if I get any black smoke on acceleration once the turbo is rolling.

I'll drive the motor normal and change the oil after the first 300 km (150 miles).

After I save a few dollars, I'll add an intercooler and 4 inch exhaust. I needed to use the original 3" exhaust to get the truck rolling yesterday. After this additional work, I'll have it dyno'd and share the numbers.

Thanks to all for the input.
Mike

[1999GMC]

Glad to hear it. Can't wait to see dyno numbers.

[JetBoater]

I have 150 kms on it so far which has used about 1/3rd of a gas tank... the mileage seems bad. Is that normal? What is the normal range on a tank of diesel in a dually?

The oil remains clean so far... I assume that fantasy of clean engine oil will not last much longer.

I had the truck timed at a local shop called N.W. Injection. They advanced it just slightly. I asked them to give it the "once-over" and they gave it a clean bill of health.

Everything is in order... I just need to get some miles on it.

[HH]

I have been averaging about 18 - 19 mpg (US) in my dually. I get over 500 miles per tank, I think it is 32 US gals.

[JetBoater]

Well... I have spent quite some time diagnosing a mystery Oil leaks.

It turns out the long block was missing 4 bolts at the bottom of the timing chain cover. I did notice this... but the holes were filled with black RTV. Who knew? Franklin Ohio engineer confirmed bolts should be there.

I bought 10 mm bolts and buttoned up the bottom. The threaded holes on the side of the T cover do not thread into the block. See adjacent to harmonic dampner in picture below. I installed short bolts to plug holes.


I used the best RTV I know of to seal the seam.... Ford TA-31. It is a grey paste, offered in half-sized calking tubes, and dries very hard. It sucks to have an oil leak on a new motor due to a bad assembler and poor line inspection.

A 2nd leak was also fixed between water pump base plate and timing chain cover..... my garage mechanic used a budget gasket without sealer. I Re&Re'd that in 3 hours.

Leaks fixed.