starter bolt question

[BostonKev]

Hello All, I have a 91 GMC K2500 with 61k that I purchased from the local fire dept at auction. I've recently replaced all the fuel lines and tank and most recently the starter. After replacing the starter I noticed that 1 of the bolts doesn't get too tight which tells me it's stripped out up in the block. I purchased new bolts from the dealer to make sure I got the 10mm that it requires so my question is what do you think is the easiest fix for this? Heli coils and some thread lock red? Thank you

[allformike]

you could also try tapping it

[Robyn]

Thi is a very important bolt so I would say the best fix is to use a helicoil repair.

The kits are available at the parts store in a little plastic pouch.
You dont need to use any Loctite on this. The kit will come with a drill,tap, installation tool and some inserts.

Use only one insert for the hole. Sometimes longer inserts can be had, if you can, I would use the longer one if you can get it.

These are made of stainless steel and when installed wind up on the installer tool and thread right into the freshly tapped hole.
Once in, the little tail that is on the insert must be broken off and retrieved from the hole.

This fix is actually as good or better than the original thread.

IIRC the threads are recessed into the block a little bit, so be sure and install the Helicoil so the new thread is located in a similar position. If you drill the hole out be sure and use a counter sink and just break the sharp corner on the hole afterwards. This does not need to be much, just a tiny little chamfer to eliminate the stress riser created by a sharp edge.

Another point here is to be sure the front starter bracket is on the engine and bolted to the starter.
This is very important and must be there to assure a good mounting for the starter.
If this bracket is not there the starter bolts can SHEAR OFF resulting in all sorts of things you don't want to deal with.

Getting to the little bracket is easy. ***remove the RH front wheel and the little rubber weather flap on the inner fender and a good access will be available to get to the wiring as well as the front bracket. ***

Many mechanics leave this stuff off, because they can't figure out the easy way to get at it and spend hours fighting it. I have actually seen these cut off with a torch because the mechanic was in a hurry.
BAD PLAN
Be sure the stuff is in place and tight. If you need a bracket, the Ma General store can help.

Remember No loctite needed. and a little Neverseaze on the bolt threads is a good thing.

(Install the Helicoil DRY)

Good luck

Robyn

[BostonKev]

I appreciate the info. I read previously and can see how important that front bracket is. It's actually pretty easy to get at from the wheel well.

Since I just replaced the tank & fuel lines also, is the easiest way to get pressure in the lines just cranking it over or actually trying to draw it through the system first with some type of pump mechanism? Thank you

[Robyn]

Just unhook the large red wire from the IP so the rig wont try to start and fill itself with air.
Open the air bleed on the filter and crank the engine. This will get the fuel there pretty quick.
Once you have clean air free fuel, hook the IP back up and your off to the Rodeo

Robyn